Anyone out there use typical “pole-barn” steel for residential home roof applications? I have seen it done here locally (northern Michigan) but wondered what the pro’s and con’s are between that and a steel roofing material made for residential roofing applications.
What is used at the eav ends to cover the ribs keeping every spider and mouse from getting under the steel? How are the valleys handled?
We are building a timber frame and SIP panel home I feel that the ribs in the pole-barn steel may allow the roof to vent more so than ashphalt shingles. Any thoughts are appreciated
Replies
I have same on my own roof and have installed thousands of squares of it in Colorado.
There are foam pieces and trims available for edge treatments. A local supplier can show you pictures and detail drawings. you might also find these online under brand names like Propanel and Regal Rib or McElroy Metal.
Comparing the negatives to a nice standing seam roofing;
the appearance is a little more crude.
the fasteners show instead of being hidden. This can lead to leaks eventually
in favor -
It is far less expensive and installs easily, more or less.
Is is not the best choice for cut up designs with a lot of valleys.
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I'll second what piffin said.
The ends of the eaves usually get a foam or neoprene gasket that fits the profile of the metal roofing which essentially seals off the ends, so there goes your venting.
The valleys also get sealed up with universal foam and some kind of sealant .
It's been my experience that the asphalt shingles are a cheaper way to go, as far as material and labor goes.
Dave
I find that for a straight gable roof, the metl is as cheap when comparing cost per sq ft per year of life expectancy even tho the initial cost can be more or the ribbed steel.
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Is that cost over a plywood sheating?
On a truss and purlin roof, I found the steel to be cheaper per square than a standard sheated, felt paper and 30 yr shingle roof.
Totaly agree on everything else.
Dave
true
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But, tell me, Oh Great One, is galvanized 5 V "tin" as good as it was years ago ? I need to replace a barn roof. The tin I will remove has been in place since about 1947. It's too rusty to paint, but it's still waterproof.
I'm hearing over and over that new "tin" roofing isn't neary as good as it was. Something about the EPA and the toxicity of the old formulas.
Thanks ! Greg
Look at GalvAlum.
Painted or uncoated steel? I think the galvalum products are suppose to have a better warrenty than the galvanized products, at least in the lighter gauges.
Most of the coated products carry a twenty year warrenty for first line products. I have used "seconds" when ask to save some money on a couple of jobs. Warrenties were not important in those cases, nor were slight variations in color. Saved about 1/3 on material cost.
One caution: when field cutting any of the steel products, ask what is allowable under the terms of the warrenty. Some do not allow abrasive wheel cutting because the hot metal thrown off by the saw will pit the coating, and become seed points for rust.
Dave
Where do you normally go to find seconds?
Not that I'm recommending but just a thought maybe worthy of you researching are the elastomeric liquid-applied rubberized roofing products.
The solvent based products are pretty durable.
I don't know abnout toxicity.
The stuff on mine has the upgraded special K paint on it that doesn't oxidize as fast, but that's another subject. When I started using this stuff, it was available in 24 gauge for structural components and in 26ga for skinning roofs etc.
Now the only way I've been able to buy it is in 26 or 29 gauge. The 29 is out there on the edge of acceptable - doesn't take much to damage it...
So I would spec 26ga if you can get it.
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Thanks for the input, guys.
Greg
Don't underestimate the powers of the newer primers designed to be used over rust. A good rusty metal primer and a top coat and a lot of rusty roofs are good for another ten years. After it gets rough pressure wash and recoat.
I have seen rural buildings that have been repainted every decade or so, after the initial coating gave up and the metal rusted, and are still going strong after 80 years.