Replies

1. 
   CapnMac | Jan 31, 2005 07:40pm | #1

   Greetings, and Welcome to BT.

   If you would, click on your screen name in blue, and fill in some of the profile info for us.

   It will help to know if you are insulating in Phoenix, or Portland, or Katmandu, in terms of narrowing down an answer for you.

   You say the house is stone--what is the interior finish?  If there are existing stud bays, these can be insulated after the fact--depending on how much interior repair work you can stand.

   Another reason for needing to know your location is that certain AHJ (Authorities Having Jusridiction) will not allow you to insulate around exisiting knob-and-tube wiring--whihc mihgt just be in a house from the 30s.

   Is there any attic insulation?  This can be quite thin, particuarly in older houses, and can contribute to a feeling of "coldness" (the heat passes up to the ceiling, then "through" into the attic, and then outdoors; the heat never really builds "down" to where you feel it).  You might could roll out some batts over the ceiling joists to get you through this winter, and then look at the walls.

   What sort of heat do you have?  It could be you are under-heated, particularly in the Southern portions of the US.

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
1. 
   AzjaST | Jan 31, 2005 08:17pm | #4

   Thanx, it was fast. Unlike JLCOnline, I see friendly people. I have updated profile, at last general info. So far, internal walls are covered with wood planks fastened to 2x4 frame. Wiring is Bx, but I will rewire the house.

1. 
   CapnMac | Jan 31, 2005 08:27pm | #7

   Well, then Frenchie's post is still valid, you could use spray foam in the cavities.  If you are preserving the plank walls, you take off an entire plank for access.  If the walls are just sheathed in tongue-and-grove boards that wil lbe covered later, then, the insulator can just cut round holes for access.

   You probably ought to call a few insulation contractors and get their input.  Blown-in cellulose may be a better option for you and your house.  Yes, I know it adds no VB, but the rest of the structure may be to "leaky" in infiltration for VB to make much difference.  Since you are in heating country, you might (stress might) could use a VB paint as a primer (which won't make the drafty single-strength, original to the house windows any thighter).

   You are also "stuck" a bit.  You need to replace the wires first, then insulate.  While the reverse is possible, it's a mess.

   BT can be "faster" than JLC because "we" may have more folk working indoors than JLC.  Mind you the BTers who are also JLCers may take umbrage, but that's kind of what BT is about <g> . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

1. 
   AzjaST | Jan 31, 2005 09:01pm | #8

   Once again, thanx. I tried to get advice from JLC but I received one reply sending me to ThisOldHouse website, since I am not contractor.

1. 
   Piffin | Feb 01, 2005 02:58am | #10

   We don't even try to stamp your hand with the rubber stamp before letting you play here.If yiou have the dimensions available, I would stud wall inside, ( then rewire as necessary while things are open and exposed) Spray a urethene foam such as Corbond to the inside of the walls, and hang new wall board over all. That will be an expensive option and i don't know what sort of budget you have.Since you mention slipformed walls apparant, if the interior walls are straight enough, you could glue foam panel to the interior face, and then apply furring over that with tapcons, and hang the wallboard to those. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   frenchy | Jan 31, 2005 07:42pm | #2

   spray foam will adhere to stone but then you have another issue, coving the foam up..  In order to meet fire code foam cannot be exposed.. thus how would you sheetrock etc. over the foam.. I think you could use something like stucco or a srayed concrete like gunite (but I'd really love to be able to see the stone as well.  Where are you and what are your heating bills? 

1. 
   AzjaST | Jan 31, 2005 08:19pm | #5

   Walls from inside lokks terrible, on the outside its much better.
   Looks like they were using sort of slipforming, so, to make it short, something needs to be installed on the walls. Sheetrock yes, but what between stone and sheetrock ?

3. 
   csnow | Jan 31, 2005 07:48pm | #3

   Real stone?  Cool!

   You can spray foam, though stone is inherently wet, so you may want to look into a closed cell foam for that application, such as Corbond.

   Do you have interior walls now?

   Rigid foam board is another good option.  You could cover the stone walls with a contiguous layer with sealed joints, then build the interior wall in front of it.

   With foam you will not need a vapor barrier, which is a good thing to avoid with stone, as it will often be on the wrong side.

1. 
   AzjaST | Jan 31, 2005 08:22pm | #6

   What about building 2x4 frame directly on the wall and filling it with polyiso + canned foam to seal ? Sheetrock on the top.

1. 
   csnow | Feb 01, 2005 12:14am | #9

   "What about building 2x4 frame directly on the wall and filling it with polyiso + canned foam to seal ? Sheetrock on the top."

   The wood should not be in contact with the masonry. Water can soak through, or condense on the masonry wall.  Plus, you would lose the thermal break.