I am finishing up a Kitchen re-model in my own house, and I’ve come up with an idea that I think is either original, stupid, or both. Hopefully, someone here can straighten me out.
Between the counters and the wall cabinets, I would like to put copper. While looking through the Formica samples, I noticed a distressed copper laminate that would look nice. I think this would be a more unique look than straight copper or tile or all the other options that have been used over the years.
I have used Formica in vertical situations, but the substrate was always plywood, particle board or MDF.
My question is can Formica be glued to the fresh painted drywall, or do I need to have a plywood backer?
Has anybody else had this idea?
Am I nuts?
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Jeff
Replies
Im not sure if it is recommended, but I have removed lots of formica from walls. Probably was glued on with constrution adhesive.
By the way "Formica" is a brand name. There are many laminate companys.
Yes, yes and yes!
I know the pattern you are describing and think it is very nice, and a much more suitable alternative to the real thing.
You can ( I have ) glue it on with almost any adhesive. PL. Pheno, you'll have to have a way to hold it in place till the glue sets.
EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
You can, but I quickly changed to a trowel on adhesive, that you could position with ease and still get a good bond. Round all corners at outlets etc, less likely to crack. You can contact it, but registration, seams, etc are difficult working over the bases.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 10/2/2004 7:35 pm ET by calvin
Are you going to have joints in it? If so I cant imagine laminate glued directly to drywall. I would think you would have a nightmare with the joints.
Could you put maybe 1/2" ply or particle board on the wall and then attach your laminate to that.
What exactly do you have in mind?
We are putting a small "lab shelf" about 4 inches above the main counter. This leaves about 10-12 inches of wall under the wall cabinets (although I haven't done all the math). The run is just under 8 feet. There will be more wall space to cover above the cooktop, but it will still fit within the 4x8 sheet that I'll have to buy. So I figure I could do it with one piece without any seams. If I like the look, I could probably use the cut-offs for other areas around the Kitchen.
The more I think about it, the more I prefer the laminate over the real copper. The laminate gives the distressed look without all the effort to get that look, and it should be less of a maintenance headache down the road.
Left to consider:
1) Is laminate okay over a cooktop? A thought that just occurred to me...
2) How should I treat the exposed edge? Top and bottom will terminate at the wall cabinets and the "lab shelf". One end will terminate at a wall (so to speak), and I'll probably lay a piece of maple trim over the other end.
Thanks to everyone for the input so far. With a little luck, I may be able to make this work.
Jeff
Doug,
I used to do this alot with new installs. It's not so poular now with solid surface being so trendy.
Best way is to glue the pieces onto the sr before any cabs are installed, or after the base and before the wall if you follow that order. This way, the counter and or backsplash butts to the wall and the wall cabs cover up the top edge. Widows and other breaks deserve special consideration though.
Doing it this way makes the joints houk up nice.
Eric
I Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
It's not so poular now with solid surface being so trendy."
Eric,
Off topic, Solid surface is still popular out East? Went to one of those "Parade of New Homes" out here and out of like 30 homes, only one had SS, Everything else was stone.
.........and the MidWest 'aint known for being cutting edge.
Jon
Jon, ss is out, color is in.
Actually Jon,
The term solid surface is used much more genericly (sp) these days and has come to include stone.
Stone has kicked the crap out of Corian and all the others......thank God! i was getting real tired of that stuff.
EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
Eric
I didnt even make the conection that it was in a kitchen.
I was thinking of just a wall with laminate covering it.
Its starting to make sense now!
Doug
jt, here's something that might be considered. So fresh in my mind (today) I'm not sure if I like it. Reproduction copper plated, sealed "tin" ceiling. Applied to concrete poured wall with PL Premium.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Maybe glue the formica to a sheet of ply or mdf first, then either glue the ply to the wall or use lots of industrial grade velcro.
Or, if the sheetrock is smooth, use a floor trowel designed for vinyl flooring, with the real small grooves, and spread a nice coat of PL on the wall, then apply the formica and somehow brace it for a while.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Instead of ht PL (I am assuming that you mena PL preminum) what about using a pannel adhesive?
The kind that you apply the pannel and then remove it and allow the adhesive to flash off for about 5 minutes.
From my limited experience with using those them you not need to brace it, it has enough tack to hold in place.
Sorta of a cross between construction adhesive and contact ahesive.
You're right. The PL stays soft for a long time ... like 30 minutes I think.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Ceramic tile adhesive with 1/16 or 1/8 inch notched trowel works well for direct glue to dw or behind laminated 1/4" plywood.
Stuff sets fast enough to hold tile to a wall, so should be no sweat for laminate.
I've used it both ways.
Dave
First you need to make a good template. You have at list 4-6 outlets and one window to deal with it. Then you will see that it's easier to (laminate) on your template and trim the outlets while the template (plywood) is flat on your table.
You can trim and work with the laminate better if you have a backing.The chances "re that you will waste the laminate (Formica or other) with out any backing before you even attempt to glue it on the wall.
YCF Dino
While it can be glued duirectly to the walls as some of the previous posters have apparently done ... it is more usual and less risky to glue it to a thin backer first and then trim it and install. 1/4" plywood is commonly used for this purpose. It will lay flatter, trim easier, handle easier, and be more durable, if you will do it this way.
Hi clay.
I will go for at list 3/8" to 1/2" in order for the trimmer to work better on the edges.
YCF Dino
Outwater Architectural Products has lotsa stick on metal "trims" in their catalog.
only looked into them briefly .... might be something in there for you.
http://208.245.181.35/cgi-bin/worderc?confc=B2C
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Lots of good thoughts...
Checking Outwater Plastics for trim is a good idea. I've purchased a fair amount from them for a store that continually is re-modelled and improved, but I hadn't thought of them for this. Thanks for waking me up.
There are no holes in the middle of the section I am planning to do. The receptacles are in the backsplash under the lab shelf, and we're on an interior wall. So there is no window.
It seems apparent that this idea is do-able. It's just a matter of how to go about it. Putting up some thin plywood first seems the least risky, but I want to preserve as much of the lab shelf as possible. It's already pretty narrow.
I'm leaning toward hanging the laminate directly to the drywall. This is brand new drywall that has been primed and painted. There are no joints in this section so it is flat and free of debris that would cause trouble for the laminate. If I hang it before the cabs go in, then the top and bottom edge would be hidden. For the one exposed edge, I'll either make a special trim piece or buy something from Outwater.
If anybody thinks this is a bad idea, please chime in. I'm going to be to this part of the job soon. If this is going to screw things up, there is still time to save me. As always, I welcome any thoughts on the matter.
Thanks to all for the advice.Jeff
When applying the lam b/4 cabinet install, plan the location of your cab mounting screws and avoid running the lam there. If you do have to run a screw through it, drill an oversize hole through the lam, to keep from cracking it. Leave all inside corners slightly radiused. If you use contact adhesive, temporarily staple visqueen over the dry to touch adhesive on the wall. Register your pc of lam, start pulling out the visqueen as you go along and adhere the lam.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Since it's new drywall with no cabinets or shelf in the way, then glueing the formica directly to the wall will work well. For the exposed edge ... can you color it wiht a bit of the wall paint? You're only talking 1/16" or so.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
i recently added a "stainless steel" looking laminate to two kitchen walls
easiest way is to fit 1/4 inch underlay to the areas to be laminated and then laminate the 1/4 ply with contact cement then adhere the laminated ply to the wall with panel adhesive
I've been doing it for years. There's no need to install an underlayment. Glue it to the drywall with whatever you have, silicone, PL, Phenoseal. Laminate co's also have a slow setting adhesive that gives you plenty of time for adjusting. Avoid contact cement for this.
Its easier to install the laminate before the cab's are up but not impossible afterwards. I cut out for electric outlets free-hand with a router and a 1/8 bit. Sometimes I reinstall the outlet trim plates to hold it while the glue sets.
There are metal trims available, a cove for the transition from counter to splash that can be nailed to the back edge of the top which is then pressed against the splash as one assembly, and a cove for inside vertical corners. there is also a termination strip for a finished end.
I personally do not like the look of the metal trims. The last few I have done I installed the laminate on the wall then scribed the counter to it. then put clear silicone on the back of the counter top and pressed it into place squeezing out the excess silicone. You can clean up the silicone residue with mineral spirits.