Some may think this a no-brainer, but I just took delivery of my two stainless steel, under-mount kitchen sinks from HD (just thought I’d throw in “HD”, in lieu of the Lowe’s post here). I hope to have installed Silestone for the countertops (for a number of reasons, but that another story).
Just wondering as I will cut out for the sinks in my 3/4″ plywood a top the cabinets: what is a “normal” or common setback/relief of the edge of the sink from the edge of the front of the cabinet? Three, four inches?
Also, included with my Elkay sinks was the mounting hardware, but to me it would be most secure to just use the templates enclosed with the sinks and make this cut in the 3/4″ plywood; then drop-in the sink on the plywood, the lip or about 3/4″ all around the sink “hanging” the sink in place before the Silestone goes on top. There is about a 1/16, 1/32 thickness to the stainless steel and lip. This shouldn’t hinder the install of the silestone should it?
Thanks in advance for any advice/guidance.
Replies
I always take a little time to check out how the faucet will install. You need enough room in back for the faucet (and for the process of installing it), and you need enough room in front for the 'bar' of countertop that spans the front of the sink. The countertop fabricator/installer usually has something to say about that minimum--I'm not familiar with Silestone, what is it? Always good to talk to the plumber and the countertop guy as you layout sink cuts. I rabbet the top of the subtop so that the sink sits down flush with the subtop rather than sticking up.
David, good points; I am the plumber on this job (or at least the finish part). No worries on the main, larger sink as it is in a corner, a slight worry or concern with the other, secondary sink regarding the plumbing. I was just wondering about the part or space in front of the sink, kinda what is "normal." Get a ballpark and then work from there i.e. accomodating for plumbing in the back.
I think rabbeting is a good idea, you mean with a router, eh? I don't have a router, but could probably borrow one (actually, I've got one on site, I just need to buy a proper bit for it for this application).
Regarding the Silestone: http://www.silestoneusa.com/1_info/info.htm
The thing I like about this stuff is it is thick, 3 mm, and a processed quartz made in Spain. Both marble and granite contain quartz, the hardest part of the latter, and the Silestone is made up of mostly processed quartz. The advantages to this being you don't have to go through the same maintainance (anual sealing) process as marble and granite, and it is harder than the latter. I do like, however, some marble and granite as it, more so the marble, has a little more character. The Silestone tends to look a little more processed, patterned. Some of the higher-end stuff though, looks more interesting--I've pretty much committed to the "Rainforest" color/pattern.
Hey, even plumbers need routers. You may not need a rabbeting bit, unless you can find one that's big enough to cut the rabbet you need. A straight cutter set to a depth equal to the stainless rim thickness will suffice. Set the sink in there, trace around the sink and free-hand the cut with the router. The router may not fit around the back, depending on the backsplash, router base, etc. A chisel will work there.
The front dimension is maybe 3-4" average. It depends on the material. It depends on what the counter and cabinet details are--overhang, false front, sometimes one of those tilt-out sponge trays, etc. I bring the sink as far forward as the countertop application will allow, because it gives the best clearance in the rear for the faucet and it makes it easier to use the sink, since it's a little closer to you. This is for the typical 33x22 sink... I guess if you have a small one and plenty of room you have to think about centering it in the counter, but that's not a typical kitchen sink.
I would definitely check with the countertop fabricator. They may have a minimum, and with stone you can't run a tiny piece across the front... too brittle. A lot of my experience is with granite shops that take the sinks and faucets with them when they fabricate. I simply state my preference for the sink being pulled as far forward as possible, they do the rest.
Wiley-
I got to thinking about your sink install and was wondering in the event the sink ever needed replaced, is there a trick to getting the sink out or would the counter surface need to be removed in the process?
rez, that's a good point, but when I look at the profile of the recommended way to install, I've got the hardware going out about another 1 1/2"--meaning the hardware is attached to the Silestone, but I have to accommodate for the hardware interferring with the plywood. Now if I didn't put in the 3/4" plywood, this wouldn't be a concern, but since I put in the plywood, I'm not sure how to swing it i.e. replacing a sink.
I put the plywood on the cabinets to aid in the integrity of the overall install of the countertops i.e. minimizing any unleveling in my cabinet install and bumping up the height of the cab's that I will lose with finish flooring installed. Yeah, yeah, yeah...I can read it now; I should have put the plywood on the floor before installing the cabinets.