I need some advice on a problem I’m having with a drywall sub. I’m not looking to rant or bash him, just want some perspective on how to deal with the situation.
When contracting the drywaller, I wrote a very brief spec letter outlining the verbal agreements we’d made during the bid meeting on how the work would be done. Included in this was the item that all drywall would be installed with screws.
Day 1: Hanging. I went out in the evening and found a mishmash of nails and screws used, leaning toward mostly nails. In a number of places, the sheetrock hadn’t been cut completely away from the electrical boxes, leaving the sheets bowed out and the boxes tilting in. Nails in these areas looked good, but didn’t draw the boards to the wall (could tell just by pushing on it). Adhesive was used on the interior walls, meaning few/no fasteners in the field. Since the boards were bowed out, glue isn’t doing anything (aside from becoming a nuisance “shim” after drying). Called the drywaller. He said the crew probably just put up the nails to hang temporarily and would follow up with screws. He’d call them just to make sure, tell them to put screws next to all nails, also in the fields. Ok, fine.
Day 2: Work area all cleaned up, additional screws in ceiling, walls unchanged. Called again. Had some discussion on why screws were important. Brought up bowed out rock and ineffective adhesive. He said to mark any problems up on the walls and he’d take care of them himself.
Day 3: Marked areas, bowed walls, hung up boxes, added big note to add screws to all walls, included spacing requirements. Put in a few screws just to make sure I was right about gaps not drawn tight. Called drywaller to tell him that screws were there and ready…confirmed expectation that problems above would be taken care of and screws installed
Day 4: Seam taping in progress. Some bowed wall areas have been messed with and patched, gaps around boxes taped and mudded. No (few?) new screws. Can’t tell if screws were added on seams, because they’ve been taped. Put a straightedge on several sections of wall to confirm bow-outs unchanged. Many spots bowing in excess of what trim will allow. Boxes still hung up behind the board, but now taped over. Pushed on a few places and watched nails pop out as rock pushed in. Called drywaller to ask what’s going on. Told that “problems have been taken care of and drywall is flush to framing.” Said I didn’t agree and would like to meet to demonstrate problems and discuss resolution. Told that he couldn’t meet tomorrow because he has chemo.
I feel like I’m being played for an idiot and that the guilt trip I’m experiencing now is a part of it. He seemed like a nice and professional guy, and I’m trying hard not to be the “Homeowner from Hell,” but he seems to agree with everything I ask and then does the opposite.
I can only come up with a couple options:
1: Pay him a reasonable amount and finish myself. Problem with this is I’m sure there would be disagreement as to what the reasonable amount would be, and could be breach of contract.
2: Fix the problems myself and let him finish taping. Problem with this is that I’ve rewarded unacceptable work and I’m taking a hit. Good thing is I’ll make sure things are done to my satisfaction before it’s too late.
Replies
I worked for a drywall company for a few years, knew the owner quite well as a friend. He decided to build his own house, and when it came time to do the drywall, he of course had one of his crews hang it, stocked it with screws and glue. Well, they hung it in a day, he came to check on it after it working at other jobsites. Barely any of the fields were screwed, and most of the edges were nailed. Mind you, he did drywall for 20 years, was no slouch - but he couldn't tick off his crew by complaining because they hung in the production houses like lightning, and they just treated his house like any other house. He went through, screwed and fixed it himself. . .
I can't imagine nails not pulling the board any tighter than screws . . . but I have seen tons of electrical boxes covered completely by board. You might be stuck here fixing it yourself . . .
Hey, I'm no drywaller, don't want to be. Only do it for myself. But I've seen the electrical boxes you spoke of covered over also. Just how exactly does that happen? I mean I always try to look for the other guys story in a situation in order to try to understand reasons things happen the way they do. But I can't for the life of me see how someone can cover up an electrical box that's sticking out over the stud. Is it working so fast under pressure they just don't see it or is it just get the rock up and later on someone else will deal with it cause they have no time now? Boggles my mind man!Half of good living is staying out of bad situations.
Forget the primal scream, just Roar!
rez-
I really couldn't tell you exactly why or how boxes get covered over (I personally mostly hung partition walls, firewalls ie no boxes!) but seems to me to just be rushing. You get paid per sheet, and you tend to only look for boxes when you expect them to be there. I've seen some in the dark corners of houses too - like an interior of a bathroom, where the lack of light and insulation combine to hide a box. Other times a piece of kraft paper or insulation will flop down overtop of it. Mostly, I think it is just being in a hurry!
Option 3 -- Take a half day off work and meet him at the house, on his schedule. Remind him of the conditions specified in the letter ("drywall would be installed with screws") -- you _did_ keep a copy for yourself, right? and he signed it so it's a binding contract, right? Require him to comply with the conditions of the contract, at his expense. Take lots of pictures so when this ends up in court or arbitration you can show your side of the story. Oh wait -- this _is_ your side of the story... what would the sub have to say if we asked him?
Call him and tell him that, despite numerous attempt to gain compliance, his work is still in violation of the terms of the contract and that while he is at the doctor you will be at the lawyers. Call your lawyer. No real reason to go. Every tradesman should have a working relationship with a compatible lawyer.
Ask about booting the guy off the job without paying him anything. If he wants any money he will have to go to court and prove he has done the work as defined by the contract. You hold the high ground. Be sure you have witnesses, pictures and documentation for a potential case. You could also counter sue for the cost of demolition of his poor work and the cost of having the job redone. Given the cost of filing, proving and collecting against you he would be better off walking away wiser but poorer.
While some will flinch at my hardball approach I think, from the tone of your post that you have bent over backwards to accommodate this guys incompetence. Your time and efforts were not cheap or easy. Enough of the kid gloves.
It sounds like you got a drywall man who is used to doing tract homes billed by the sheet. He is reaching and out of his league doing a custom home. You shouldn't have to pay for his education and training. You may have to pay more but you will do better with a contractor used to custom work.
Please note that I am not a lawyer and the law may be against me on this but I am aware of a similar situation that played out along these lines. When faced with proving the adequacy of his work and in light of his sloppy general attitude he had second thoughts, after much bluster and noise, about facing a judge. In the end the miscreant ate his losses and walked away. Have a heart to heart and a beer with a friendly lawyer.
I realize I'm not giving this guy a chance to put his side forward, which is why I tried to present only the facts of the case, without too much (?) of my own spin. This seems pretty cut and dried and I'm confident almost no other GC would allow a finished product of the type I'm heading toward. It also doesn't seem like threatening lawyers/arbitration is that common for "real" GC's, which is why I'm trying to get a feel for how common this sort of thing is.
Since I'm not a builder, I can see some subs assuming my comments are based on ignorance or are just homeowner complaints, and I don't have the clout of 10 more homes lined up to encourage good work.
Boxes aren't completely covered, usually just a corner or an edge, so it shouldn't be too much work to free up. I really think it'll be less hassle to do most of the fixes myself to get back on track, so that's probably the route I'll take. I've probably been too accommodating, but I haven't figured out the fine line between getting the work done right and harassing a sub to the point that they hold a grudge and finish the job sloppily. Just wanted to see from the builders out there if this is "just part of life."
As far as I can tell from your posts, you haven't actually met the guy at the site yet. Based on what you've said so far, I think that's the thing to do. It's easy to gloss over things on the phone. Metting someone face to face where you can point out the problems makes it tougher to blow you off.
I wouldn't fix it yourself - Stand your ground and make him meet you on the site. I wouldn't allow them to work any more or pay them anything until the problems are solved. People pay more attention to you when they think you're up to something.
You're right. We haven't met at the site since the bid. Up 'till yesterday, he hasn't set foot onsite either...it's all been his hanging crew. Hadn't met because he had me convinced that the problems were just with his crew and he understood all the issues. When I asked for a meeting before, he told me to mark up all my problems on the walls. Seemed like a small enough job, and I'm far enough out of the way, that I didn't want him to have to make an extra trip until he was ready to work. Lesson learned.
I've been reading this through with one eye as a contractor and the other one as a human being and doing a lot of thinking. I learned long ago to try to keep my emotions out of someting like this (otherwise, I might have run him off the job by now) Instead, I look for win/win (no RK cracks now wise guys!) solutions.
I notice that you mention that he had to schedule around Chemotherapy. Maybe he is treying to play the sympathy card but maybe he is just distracted by his illness. Chemo is a brutal regimen of treatments. One day of chemo can set you back by three days to a week before you are on you woozy feet again. He might be unable to control his business anymore and just hasn't faced it yet. He can be gently led to face it without being harsh or cruel.
He is apparently doing all his work with subs. Rock hangers are notorious for sloppy work and minimal fasteners. They get paid by the piece and not by the smiles. I have my own way of dealing with that but I want to adress your situation - which is why we're all here.
I would first document the situation as it exists. You must STOP WORK until you do this or do it first thing in the morning. Take photos from many angles and with shadow lighting and with straightedges to demonstrate. Get closeups of nail pops. Write down notes of what is wrong, in gross detail. Then fix it and keep track of your time. Screw the rock up tight and cut around the boxes. A little mud in the box is normal but not cutting it all the way out to fit tight to the stud is not - it is negligence. IF YOU ALLOW them to continue mudding without making the rock tight to the studs, you are buying trouble for the future. Same for bowed rock with glue behind it stopping flush fits. Decide what level of incompetancy on that item you can tolerate.
Tell him you are doing all this and why. That is his final warning. Odds are, he will repond to fixing it right immediately.
Otherwise, fix the stuff yourself to be sure it is right before letting the mud crew continue. Then deduct the value of your work and grief from his final bill. You have the evidence of his poor workmanship if needed for court.
This keeps you in the drivers seat. It provides a way for you to be sure you get a good job. It affords him the chance to demand better work of his subs and reassert his own place and position as well as to actually see the trouble his lack of involvement is causing. It allows him opportuinity to save face and re-afirm his integrity, if he has any, and to earn his profits instead of taking them from you.
And it doesn't slow down the job too much. If you have to tear out crappy work after it is all done, you are weeks behind and he is out all his money - that's a loose - loose for both.
Print this out and let him read it if you think it will benefit the negotiations..
Excellence is its own reward!
Few Questions come up, Is this drywall job a House, Basement, Addition or Remodel? Was a building permit pulled? I would go to the building department for advice before I would call in a lawyer. Most urban areas a Drywall screw inspection is called in to the building department before any mud or tape goes on the board!
Looks like (hopefully) this has been resolved. DW and I put in a few hours taking care of the problems we could spot and fix, cut around boxes, added screws where I could tell by tapping on the sheets that the glue didn't hold or where it wasn't drawn in. It gave me a good comfort level that the obvious problem areas wouldn't pop.
Called the finisher again to discuss meeting. First thing he mentioned is that he had a guy lined up to bring in a screw gun and hit all the sheets on the walls. I let him know of the areas we fixed and a couple spots we couldn't take care of, that he'd have to work on. No problems. It may be a repeat of the past calls and maybe I won't see the results discussed, but I'm cooled down again and willing to give him the benefit of the doubt. I do have some pictures to back me up if problems continue, and plan to take some more in the morning. From my last talk with the building inspector, a pre-taping inspection is not on the list (rural area).
I suspect Piffin has the right idea about what's going on, as far as the finisher trying to manage a business while dealing with more important issues. At the time I felt it was unprofessional to mention the chemo when a simple "I won't be available" would have sufficed, but that may have been his way of letting me know he had other issues to sort out but would get back to me. Who knows. As I said, he seems to be a really nice and decent guy, so I want to give him a chance.
I tremendously appreciate the responses and insight, and have a lot of respect for you guys.
sounds like your speakingat every rocker who got just one little speck of mud in one of your boxes, right?listening for the secret.......searching for the sound...
Hmm. I admit I may have some pent up resentment against the sloppier rock butchers. Most are OK. Some are good. A few very good. Unfortunately a few are deplorable.
Rocked over receptacles. Not just a single one in in an odd spot. Five in one small house. All normal switch and receptacle boxes placed in expected locations. Boxes literally filled, not just golf ball sized blobs, solid, finished smooth and painted over. Drywall so loosely attached to the studs that the switch and receptacle covers are holding it on.
Rotary saws used as demolition tools. Wires cut off flush with inside of the box. PVC conduit with feeders inside cut half way through above the panel. All conductors damaged. How this sort of damage could be done without really trying I don't know. The drywall is 1/2" thick. Why do they take a 3 or 4" Zip bit and sink it?
I am not the only ones concerned. I have seen plumbing lines, copper, PEX and PVC, damaged in the same way. One copper line was to be a gas line. It was lucky we caught that before he just mudded over the gap. Had it been two days later the pressure check would have been completed.
If the contractor has health problems he has my sympathy. I would send him flowers after kicking him off the site. His representative was given many chances at correcting problems. If he can't get good workers he needs to get out of the business before causing others to go broke trying to fix his problem. You don't take on jobs you can't do.
A creative relationship with a good lawyer makes sense for anyone in the trades. One that is a drinking or bowling buddy is best. Discovering your options over a drink is likely to solve many problems before they even get to the consultation stage. Return the favor by replacing the lamps, florescent tubes, in his office for free. I feel that having a lawyer on your side is smart. Having a working relationship before you need one makes things much easier. I can say "talk to my lawyer" and mean it. I know that my guy will protect my interests even before he knows what the problem is. He is a shark and admits it. But he is my shark.
Edit for syntax.
Edited 10/9/2002 5:09:36 AM ET by 4LORN1
Finisher was true to his (latest) word and drywall is now all screwed up...
Um, in the good way.
Im going to answer some questions that were asked .
Boxes are normally marked on the floor like this" | 12 |" . The double marks repersent both edges of the box . The number is the measurement up to center of the box from the floor . The sheets are hung over all boxes , to gain speed . There is usually a man that is working behind the hanging crew cutting boxes , windows, and doors , with two zip bit routers. Wires are placed to the back of the box before hanging starts. The router will have a gauge set at 3/4 depth.
For the speed of hanging , it is common practice on a screw and glue job to nail the edges, and a few in the center of each sheet hung on the ceiling. Then after the hanging guys move out of the room the router guy then screws the whole room off while the glue is still moist., after he has finished the cut in with his routers. It is the same guys job then to scrap and sweep out that room. Its also his job to move things that are necesary in front of the hangers. Hangers work faster than carpenters and they only do one thing . Thats the reason carpenters dont hang , because they could never draw their wages doing it unless they were hangers once before.
If the glue was applied and let set up before the wall was screwed tight then you still have problems. You will have a full bead of glue dry that wont compress, except where the rock was nailed. These guys need to be fired . They should be paid for their hanging , but not used again. As a finisher , I would have my problems cut out for me on your job because the rock wont be straight. I dont know of a way of getting it flat on the wall now unless its removed. I said pay them because you are satisfied. I wouldnt be , and Im not sure I wouldnt want the whole job gutted at their expense , but Im not there to see it . The boxes were not a big problem except in the fact glue beads dried behind the rock.
You have been very level headed as a home owner and a very nice one at that. You descriped the job very well to have not had any experince. Im proud of you for that . I wish you would have posted earilar , and I would have caught the post from the beginning. The work should have been stopped . I would have fired them on the spot . You however came to us seeking advice and knowledge , and I commend you for that. These guys are" slobs" that are disgracing the drywall trade. I will not back up on that statement. I surely wouldnt let their butt back on my job to tape . I dont have to be nice to see their point of veiw because they left an unfinished wall with glue behind it . Judgement to the plaintive for the rock to be stripped out !
Tim Mooney
Im going to add this for your information and understanding to why I feel the way I do.
You called for glue and scew , plain and simple. The rock wouldnt even be touching the glue in most areas. When rock is hung and only perimeter nailed , its "puffy" looking . Yes they tightened it up , but you dont have a glue job now , and you will not have a bond to the rock that is there now. You have a screw and nail job hung over dried glue, that will not be a flat surface.
Im sorry you got slobs , not professional hangers.
Tim Mooney
I would be more upset, except I've checked wall surfaces with a straightedge, and for whatever reason the walls seem to be pulled in now, with just a couple small exceptions that I'm asking them to tear out and fix. From some unfinished areas, where I can see the back of the boards, it doesn't appear that they use very much glue, which could be why I'm not noticing drywall shoved out by a bead.
It would have been a bad situation if left untouched, but between my work and the drywallers', all the sheets now have full screws in the field.
I've cut the finisher some slack because the it was the hangers that botched everything up. Did he pick the hangers? Sure. Should he have given them clearer instructions and better supervision? Definitely. Most of the crews in this region working quick, labor-intensive projects (roofing, drywall, etc.) seem to be made up of inexperienced labor, just due to the booming market. I try to gauge a sub by my impression of the owner/foreman, but the crews are transient and I'm assuming even a good contractor could have a lousy crew from time to time. A builder would have the networks and contacts to get a better idea of who's good and who isn't (one more addition to the list of things that suffer when you act as your own GC).
I'm just trying to make sure the finished product turns out ok. I'm glad you posted, because I have a lot better understanding of the whole process now.
Im glad you are satisfied at this point . I dont know how much straight edge work you did , but you will know once its painted and not be sure till then . So, I guess this one time, is a good thing that not enough glue was used . [I hope ] Good luck.
Tim Mooney
I framed a house for a couple that own a computer company. They were also the GC ;-). That's another thread.
She video taped every single inch othe house. No joke!
After the house was sheetrocked, I was there framing the deck and she asked me to go into her master bath. She said to me do you remember a high hat in one part of the ceiling?
I coudn't remember. She swore there was one there and she kept telling the sheetrocker there was one. He kept denying it. Also one in the hallway and master bedroom closet.
The sheetrocker was "PISSED".
The next day she came up to me with her video camera and showed me where the 3 high hats were befor they sheetrocked.
I started laughing because I could just imagine the expression on the sheetrockers face when she showed him the video. "BUSTED".
Joe Carola
now that you got thru the hanging, you aint done, and I'm talking point-up. Take some trim, I'm talking a elec. cover plate, recessed light trim, and go around, if the finishers are anything like the hangars you described.............they can get it later, but they'll slow down the painter less if they are more thorough now, wouldn't hurt to double check and see if like, under cabinet light wires are pulled through, low voltage wires like thermostat wern't forgotten, ducts are cut out, etc...listening for the secret.......searching for the sound...
Not to stir the pot anymore then needed ,but like I asked before do they do drywall screw inspection or is this Maybeery? MY 2 cents worth but glue is a waste of time & money! Make sure they use paper tape & not fiberglass tape . Any Texture on the finish product,? How was the corner bead installed? Ask Questions here if the job is not finished yet, because there more that could be messed up and once the house is painted you will find it! Did the rocker haul off the scrap or did they hide in the walls like all good hacks do ? Now would be the time to check the wall areas of your tubs & showers so the tile setter does not have to tell you he's going to bone you because the walls are not flat. Hope the rest of your job goes better.
Edited 10/10/2002 9:25:26 PM ET by G80104
interesting discussion...not to pirate it but a few questions from all the talk here --
where the heck do they have 'drywall screw' inspections?
did I read that quote of the residential tolerances handbook correctly that it's adequate for a wall to be 3/8" out of plumb in 32"?
Tim, tell me more about the rotozip action. we don't use one when we hang, we measure and cut off the wall. Is that a ridiculous way of doing it?
thanks, GO
Every large town or city that I have worked in for the past 10 years has had drywall screw inspection. Also Party wall inspection that checks for 5/8" rock on the wall that separate 2 units in a multi-family unit (any floor wall or lid has to be 5/8 rock with in a 5' area of the next unit in the building. Also have to do a pre rock before frame inspection to make sure 5/8" is also on areas under stairs,behind tubs and on the trusses in the attic so we have a total sepration between units for fire code. Everything gets fire taped from foundation up to the plywood on the roof. Gets even tougher if you our building a Motel or Hotel with fire caulks and fire collars on pipes and wires. This is the price you pay to work in areas where the inspectors know how to do their jobs.
"Tim, tell me more about the rotozip action. we don't use one when we hang, we measure and cut off the wall. Is that a ridiculous way of doing it?"
You sound like a carpenter that hangs his own work. No offense meant of any kind .
My best answer at the time ; In your mind , with a tablet and pencil , hang a room complete . The old calling out measurements to a compadrdry. Dont forget the whuts? Mis measurements by an inch, and having two peoples attention at once, when there was a ball game played last night that needs to be talked about. Anytime two people are involved or more , there is a double pay rate , or of course more, for one task. Now we are going to assume that you have to have help hanging rock, so that is a given. The more indepentant you are of each other , the more money is made because of time. How many times have you noticed a man watching while something is measured or cut ? You think," yes we are working ", but a lot of the time only one would be , or neither of you for many minutes in the day. If you manage your minutes , your hours and days will take care of them selves. A good source for your question is "minute manager". That said I will go to your question.
Im the boss on the job and I act as a coach. Im the only minute manager there . If a job is not glued , here is an example .
Hanging ceilings ; I have two hangers using four to five walkups. Two walkups in separate rooms , and one is portable for one man to move about as he wishes, hanging closets , butts, bathrooms , etc. Im on stilts set the right to the ceiling. I do all the meaurements of lengh by my self . I set a nail for a starting point and draw my tape across the ceiling holding on to the tape and the joices not letting it slip. Hence the ease of movement over a lagre space using stilts. I carry a battery operated router in my back, and third pouch. A full sheet goes up, and I step under it , tacking the middle of one side . I back up and look for the ceiling box , and cut it by sight looking under and under the sheet at the same time. No measurement . When that sheet is secured , I move away and measure the next sheet . When Im caught up I measure butts and write them on the ceiling . When the measureing is caught up , I screw or nail off rock and send the guys away to cut more. Im responseble for the flow .
Walls are done with three on the floor , and this is where the routers really come into play. Battery router goes back in the box. Out comes a small one hand held router with an 1/8 inch bit . This bit does boxes and small cutts. A big router with a base then comes out with an auger type 1/4 inch bit. This router is used primarily for windows and doors. Very fast . Sheets are cut for length only , and thats the only measurement . Top sheets are hung off the top plate , left hanging . Blue writing on the floor | 18 | repersents a cut measured from the ceiling to center of box . [using a lumber crayon ] White marks on the floor repersents [|12| ] repersents cut outs in the bottom sheet . Black repersents stud centers and the ending of walls , to be used at a later date by the trim carpenter. They will reccomend you just because of this job that takes 30 minutes in a big house . But mainly the hanger uses the black marks to line up rows nailing or screwing. All these markings are done by one man in about an hour . Sheets that over lap into doorways are never measured . They are cut out complete after they are hung with a router, using the black ending mark to start. [ end marks look like this L ] A slight cut in the window top sheet tells where to start the window cut after the wall is hung. [again , no measurements ]
I could go on and on , but this is plenty to point out the time factor in managing minutes.
Tim Mooney
G80104: No screw inspections here. Not Mayberry, just a rural wannabesuburban area. Paper tape on seams and in interior corners...haven't put bead on any exteriors yet. No textures, except knock-down on the ceiling. I was shooting for smooth ceilings to start with, but got talked out of it by every bidder (makes me wonder how the upstairs that I'm finishing smooth myself is going to turn out). Figured knock-down is fine, but I wouldn't accept popcorn spray. This is an older finisher with lots of years under his belt, so I'm sitting tight (well, checking as he goes) and waiting to see the result. What's the issue with fiber tape? I'm using it upstairs because I thought it would be more foolproof (with me being the fool in question) than paper.
Am I wrong here, or is it more-or-less impossible to tell the quality of the finished product by watching the first coat or two? As stated by others before, I won't know how it really turned out until painting, and won't know if it's going to pop in places for a couple years. My money will be long gone before either of those things happen, so I'm trying to check everything I can think of (and am really glad for some of the suggestions).
Last year I finished a basement room for a couple. I did everything as I had just started my company and didn't have any contacts with drywall guys. I called a few and noone was interested in a one room basement job. Cant say that I blame them. Deal was I had two butt seams in the whole room, one wall and one lid. I fanned both out 2 feet with mud and sanded like crazy. I thought I did a great job and was ready to prime and texture. BTW it never occured to me to put my 12" knife on the joint and look for a hump. It looked great as it was.
After putting a mediocre texture job on it, which was interesting to say the least I painted it. The minute I got done and looked around all I could see were these two 4' long butt seams sticking out. The HO said he thought it looked great, and I told him that I didn't and would fix the seams, but he was anxious to get his son moved down there and told me not to worry about it. I couldn't believe that once painted those seams showed like a purple thumb.
Funny thing is, any tract home I walk through now I can spot every defect in the drywall easily. It is an acquired skill to do it right without having to sand the paper off of the rock after you mud.
Long way to your answer is anyone who knows what they are looking at before its painted should have no problem, but I sure as hell couldn't see it on my job.
Good Luck
ColeCole Dean
Dean Contracting
Cole , that is an outstanding point , brought under the flag in good timming .
Tim Mooney
Eides, The fiber glass tape is less effort to use then paper, but I have seen more problems with fiber then paper. Most people that use fiber use speed set (EZ sand 90) when they apply the fiber glass tape. The stuff has been known to crack when regular mud/ joint compound is used with it. Maybe you could talk your finisher to run the paper & you do the rest. Slick or smooth finish is hard to do, best left to the pros. You might have better luck with a textured finish on the work you our doing by yourself. Texture can hide many sins. Texture with a hopper can be a large effort for a first timer . In my younger days did as much as I always could & it showed. Somtimes its best to bite the bullet and pay the guy that does it every day.
If your happy. I'm happy. Glad things seem to have worked out.
Its hard to say with one side of the story, but taking yours at face value, he wouldn't get paid until it met standards. You have two things working in your favor. The first is the contract. Hopefully you specified sufficiently in there what the expectations were, although as the homeowner, that isn't your job, so if that's the boat you're in:
National Assn of Homebuilders (NAHB) Residential Construction Performance Guidelines (RCPG) pg 19, section 4-1 "Wood framed walls shall not be more than 3/8" out of plumb for any 32" in any vertical measurement" - this should pertain to what's put on that framing as well. 4-2, Walls shall not bow more than 1/2" out of line within any 32" horizontal measurement, or 1/2" within any 8' vertical measurement."
Other defects, such as pops, blisters are typically under the "as seen from 6 feet" rule. They don't comment on nails vs. screws, but it sounds like that part at least was in the contract. If he doesn't want to do it right, he doesn't need to be in business. The rest of us just have to come in behind and fix what he fouled up, and you're the one who pays. That's not fair any way you cut it.