Replies

1. 
   philarenewal | Feb 25, 2006 11:04am | #1

   Hello Greg:

   I've used CDX sheathing under hardwood many times without problem.  I don't do floors for a living though so my advice may be worth what it costs.  One recommendation would be to fill any voids in the surface of the sheathing ("C" surface should be OK as is, but if there are missed knot holes in the surface ply, might as well fill them).  Also, I would use subfloor adhesive between the 3/4" and 1/2" sheets to avoid potential for squeak at that interface.

   Best of luck

1. 
   greggo | Feb 25, 2006 05:40pm | #2

   Thanks for the reply.I cant see it beeing a problem but I just wanted to be sure before I go and glue&screw about 30 sheets.

   I figured somebody here has done it before.I needed to get that little extra feed back.

   Thanks GregLead,Follow,or Get the Hell Out of the Way!

1. 
   philarenewal | Feb 25, 2006 10:01pm | #4

   Wow, 30 sheets, almost 1000'sq.  Hope you have help or maybe, like me, just need to be patient with daily progress tackling it solo.  Take your time, think ahead, and that floor will be beautiful.  Send pics when done.  Like to see it.

   On the thinking ahead score, I remember the first time I did a floor with border.  Long narrow hallway to a staircase, which widened at a 45 angle at the staircase so the hallway went around the side of the staircase.  Getting started, I painstakingly laid out the main hallway so the border would be exactly equal away from the wall at each side, and left figuring out the widening part to when I got there.  Well when I got there it was then that I realized that the boards don't magically change width to keep a border equidistant from the walls as the hall widened.  As luck would have it, the hallway jusst happened to have the widths so that both parts, and the width of the staircase, worked out to even multiples of 2 1/4" (width of the flooring I put in) so it worked out perfectly -- odds of that happening seem to me to be pretty low.  I just about wet my pants when I realized how lucky I was and how close a call I had to disaster.  Only way to learn I guess.

   Best.

   Edited 2/25/2006 2:19 pm ET by philarenewal

1. 
   greggo | Feb 26, 2006 03:18am | #7

   I got a couple of firefighter buddys I'll get to help on this one.

   Thanks GregLead,Follow,or Get the Hell Out of the Way!

2. 
   FastEddie | Feb 25, 2006 07:04pm | #3

   Glue & screw the second layer, then use 2" flooring nails, not 1-1/2".

    

    

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   greggo | Feb 26, 2006 03:16am | #6

   Thanks Eddie :

   I'm not sure if I'going to get the chance to install the hardwood  although I would like to give it a shot(the dw )has other ideas.I might be able to convince her to let me do the master bedroomOnce she sees what the bill is going to be.

   I have already  done way too much  on this house by my self and the wife wants me to just get it finished

   If I dont do the job I'll let the installers know to put in 2" nails(good idea)

   Thanks GregLead,Follow,or Get the Hell Out of the Way!

3. 
   JDRHI | Feb 26, 2006 12:05am | #5

   CDX is fine.

   Shoulda been fine for the tile as well.

   Only time I spend the money on UL ply is when its being carpeted.

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

1. 
   greggo | Feb 26, 2006 03:23am | #8

   I didnt think it would matter ,but wanted to be sure.In john bridges tile book he dosent recomend the cdx for tile because of the knots but I think he's splitting hairs on that one.My tile guy says the thinset adhears better to the cdx.

   Thanks Greg

   Lead,Follow,or Get the Hell Out of the Way!

   Edited 2/26/2006 11:43 am ET by greggo