suggestions for air hose storage and….
So I just became the proud owner of a thomas 635hd ultra pac compressor (ebay rocks…. delivered new in box to my door for 125…) I went to my local tool store and was told to get 50 feet of flexeel hose, looked cool and light, so I said ok, and some fittings, and a blow gun to bench test the compressor.
Well opened up the hose and it became a giant mess, and I was wondering how you all manage your hoses to keep them from tangling… do i need to flake it out like a climbing rope?
also, the compressor came with a threaded block, and no fittings, should I install a QR fitting on the compressor, or just a male and, and a qr fitting on the ends of the hose?
I timed the little bugger and it gets to 130psi in 58 seconds and recovers from 100 psi in 15…. all that and 35 pounds in weight. whoo hoo!
Jeff
Replies
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The Cable Clamp is readily available at most hardware stores....I think HD even carries them.
They come in a good assortment of sizes....I use them for air hoses, extension cords, etc.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
I have a couple of the cable clamps on the hose right now, but it is like a slinky that has gone bad, as soon as I tried to grab a cable clamp it went back to tangle mode.
I think I need to get or make a reel for the hose!
Jeff
I love my cable clamp Jay! But alas...it broke today...I only have one tooth left and I have to force it on....
Better head over to the box to buy me another.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
Grab a handfull....they`re cheap enough!J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
You will need a QR fitting on the compressor side to keep all the air from escaping (the fitting wont let air out until it is connected to another fitting.) I find that the flexeel hose is light, but doesnt coil nearly as well as good old red rubber hose. I like the 25' sections of pvc hose as it is easier to deal with. I use rubber hose except the last short section, which is pvc.
Makes me think of George Carlin's old routine about kids insults...
"up your nose with a rubber hose!"
But seriously, I use a couple pieces of 10 gage insulated wire (copper). For tying up the rubber hose, that is. Not up the nose.
Cliff
The poly hoses are a different animal. Some lay reasonably flat and others are all over the place. Mine is somewhere in the middle. I should have researched before buying.
I've never met an air hose that wasn't a pain to handle. I bought a Rapid Reel and a mount that attaches to my compressor, it replaces the stock handle. Mine holds 100 ft. and I leave the large compressor in the back of the truck. I just grab the end and walk to where I need it. When finished, I just crank the handle. Although a bit pricey, it's one of the best frustration and time savers I own. Add a swivel to your guns and you will be as tangle free as it gets.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Do you have a photo of your Rapid Reel and compressor setup?The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
My Rapid Reel has been in use for 6 yrs. I've been surprised that it hasn't rusted and that it survived a header off the tailgate. The air cleaner and regulator got smashed but the reel, which took the first hit, didn't even dent. With 100 ft. of hose, you have to "pay" the line onto the reel. I seldom need more hose but can add 50' when needed. The handle mount I did not know about until I received the reel and manufacturers information. This unit has been trouble free. I use a BBQ cover for weather protection.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hammer, what do you mean...add a swivel to your guns? My hose seems to swivel freely at the gun....don't they all?
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
Yeah, Blue eyed devil, the gun will rotate 360 perpendicular to the hose end. With a swivel, there are less restrictions since the hose can be placed wherever it suits you. Makes it easier to; get in odd places, laying the gun down on planks, etc. and general handling.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks for that picture Hammer. that looks like something I'm going to try. It appears like it might affect the balance when nailing on vertical surfaces, but it still looks like something I would give a whirl to.
BlueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
Instead of the big swivel joint have you ever considered a ball swivel?
http://www.coilhose.com/uploads/products/Page%2031.pdf
I saw this in the spiffy little catalog that came with my flexeel hose, and it looked lie a lower bulk alternative to the bigger swivels...
Oh i also discovered that I was coiling my hose too tight, I found using longer loops made everything oh so much easier!
I like the looks of that one too Jrobbins.
I make biiig loops! i hate curley cue cords or hoses.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
I like the looks of those too. I didn't see any when I bought mine but they don't look like they will turn 90 or more to the gun. Because the hose isn't such a straight connection with a swivel, the gun seems lighter. Probably because you don't have the direct weight of the hose coming straight out the end of the gun.
Before I had a reel, and still with large extension cords, I lay a loop on the ground and give the line a twist, similar to the over-under method. It's a technique that is used with a fly fishing line also. I fire people who wrap my cords on their arms, after a few months the strands inside get twisted and break, not to mention the tangles when laying them out. With big loops the cords last a long time and they almost form the loops without much help. Twist them the wrong way an they will start to make figure eights.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I'm one up on you Hammer.
I fire anyone that wraps any one of my cords up! The newbies learn fast...don't touch my stuff...period...end of subject....no discussion...leave my tools alone!
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
You can buy a air-hose connector that is a ball swivel. Plug your hose into that and it moves more freely than a straight plug-in. It actually works really well with the flex-eel hoses. I'll run red rubber from compressor out, then tie on the 50 ft. of flex-eel. It doesn't drag down my gun like the weight of the red rubber.Mac
Have probably 500 ft of hose total hanging around, simply have a bunch of garden hose hangers around the various shops to hangem on, no problems.
But then, they are all aerospace surplus rubber hoses bought when available at 10cents/pound <G>
As I have so many tools and so little space (sigh) I have a garden hose reel mounted at the side door of my van. I just pull out the hose as needed. Due to a happy accident my 50' is now 18' and 32', so I select the shorter one for interiors, for instance. That hosereel is customised so that I can wind on my 50' extension cord too.
I was really happy with the air hose reel that I bought from Home Depot (for ~$40) until a friend showed me his very similar set-up from Harbor Freight for $9.
I mounted the reel on the handle of compressor, and the hose now travels neatly whereever the compressor goes. This required a slightly custom bracket fabrication, but was well worth the effort and the $$$.
if you've got back issues of FHB go back a few years and look in the hints pages because someone made a hosereel out of some iron plumbing fittings.
i made one and it works great ..i might even take a pic tomorrow
Wasn't that Frank Maglin with that tip?
Jon Blakemore
Before I had the flex-eel, I would stuff the hose coil-like in a spackle bucket, wworked pretty well. Now after reading about the cheap compressor mounted reels, I might try that route.
Flex eel hose is NOT ideal on an Oak shake roof with lots of jacks, it gets hung up way too easy..I fought it all day today. Next week, back to the fat rubber.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
ever caught an eel, they didn't name those hoses flex-eel for nothing<G> so, I am a hose junky too. Like Art, I use cheap plastic hose hangers for home/shop storage...but in the truck, I use cable clamps & some cheap carabiners from HD/Lowes. We just leave 'em laying out on the job. Who's gonna steal something they gotta work to roll up? LOL
Has anyone tried these?:http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000067O0I/qid=1100130899/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1_etk-tools/102-1602103-1709747?v=glance&s=hi&n=228013
ruh roh, to long? reviews say they lay flat...hmm Don't worry, we can fix that later!
I have a PUR hose. I prefer the Flex-eel brand as their hoses are lighter and more flexible.
Jon Blakemore
I use cable-clamps as well, i usually just put a heavy duty zip tie connecting the clamp to the hose on the side of the hose that connects to the compressor (so it doesent get im my way) so its allways there when i finish wreseling it into a coil. And by the way how do you guys that use the flexeel hoses do it?! the catch on EVERYTHING! I love how light they are but i get so mad when i use them, that I'd rather use a hammer anyway!
For all hoses and cables, I tie (Ashley constrictor knot) a piece of sash cord near the source end long enough to go around the bundle twice and tie a slipped reef knot. I shake any twist out of the line, and coil it over/under, then tie it up tight so the ends don't go thru and make knots.
I hang them on the job site by driving a 16d a little way into a stud, then using another short piece of sash cord with bowlines in both ends to hook on the nail and wrap thru the bundled line.
For power cords, the sash cord tie near the male end can also be used to safety them from getting unplugged.
-- J.S.
Awright John...you got me.
I had to do a google search on the Ashley constrictor...figured out that Ashley invented this chokehold knot. I'll figure out the reef thing too.
My real interest is in that "over/under" thing. If memory serves me, someone...maybe you, talked about this before. The over/under thing allows the coiled cable/hose to play out perfectly without coiling. I've tried to do the over/under thing...and I cannot do it. I don't know if my hose has memory, or my arms are so accustomed to doing just the "over", that I can't do the under!
Any hints on how to do this...or should I just keep trying...
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
Reef knot is just the correct name for what the boy scouts used to call a "square" knot.
Over/under does let you pay out a line and have it lie flat on the deck with no loops sticking up to catch your feet. Lines do have memory, and it's real hard to take one that's been coiled with a twist for a long time and get it untwisted and re-"educated" to coiling over/under. A long time ago I lived in a four story building, and could hang them from the top of the fire escape in the sun to get them to relax and untwist. They have to be untwisted first before you can try to over/under them.
The "over" part is pretty much the way most people (at least those who don't coil things around their thumb and elbow) do it. "Under" is the one that feels really strange at first. This would be fairly hard to describe in still photos, let alone in words, but here goes:
Start with a cable or hose that's all shaken out and lying straight and flat on the deck. Pick up one end in your left hand, standing so that the rest of the line extends outward to your right. Grasp the line with your right hand about 2-3 feet from the end. Move your right hand towards your left, simultaneously twisting the cable 180 degrees counterclockwise as viewed from your right. Put the part of the line that's just to the left of your right hand in your left hand along with the part that's already there, and let go with your right. Your right hand stays over the cable for the whole procedure. Now you should have one loop held in your left hand. If you keep on coiling this way, doing "over" every time, you get a neat coil, but there's 180 degrees of counterclockwise twist on the line for every loop in the coil. Pay it out, and you get loops that stick up from the deck.
So you need to alternate the "over" loops that you're accustomed to making with "under" loops. The trick of the "under" is that you twist the opposite direction with your right hand, clockwise as viewed from where the part of the line yet to be coiled is. Your right hand has to go under the part of the line that's coming out of your left as you add the new loop to the coil. The resulting coil looks neat and round, just as it would if it were all coiled "over". The only difference is that the twist on every pair of loops cancels out, clockwise and counterclockwise, when you pay out the line. That makes it lie flat.
Good luck, and keep trying it.
-- J.S.
JS....I got it now! Thanks.
I'll redescribe it in simpler terms.
When I reach out to grab the hose, sometimes my thumb is pointing in...and sometimes it points out.
Now...to retrain..
Actually all my hoses and cords lay flat...but I do have to string them all the way out in the morning. I'd sometimes love to leave them in a nice tidy pileknowing that they will play out without twisting if needed.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
> When I reach out to grab the hose, sometimes my thumb is pointing in...and sometimes it points out.
You've found a different way to do it than I do. But if your lines are neat and flat both coiled and laid out on the deck, you're getting the right results.
The thumb of my coil-adding hand (right hand) always points towards my coil-holding hand (left hand). For an "over", I turn the fingers of my right hand inward towards myself before grasping tight on the line, then twist outward on the line as I add a loop to the coil. My hand stays over the line throughout. For an "under", I have my right thumb under the line and fingers pointing away from me when I grip the line, then I twist the other direction and bring my right hand up under the end of the new coil closest to the coil holding hand. This is slightly easier for me, but I have extremely stiff joints and limited range of wrist movement.
-- J.S.
John...I was only speaking in theory...I haven't actually been near a cord yet to try it out.
I'll keep your post handy in case my theory fizzles (which many do). I am worried about that memory thing.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
I used to pull cable for remote cameras at ACC basketball games...That over under deal was beaten into me<G>
It's tough to grasp (ha) if you can't see it...but, anytime you can't keep the coil flat, rotate yer hand 180° & pass it under the last coil. This works great for paying out line, but you've got to do some twisting if you're rolling it out...
and to whoever was talking about boat lines...how do those gremlins get into the anchor locker? Don't worry, we can fix that later!
@@
and to whoever was talking about boat lines...how do those gremlins get into the anchor locker?
@@
They probably used 3 strand laid line. Nothing but hockles and snags. I use Samson Braid (25 yrs) and just stuff it down the pipe. Narry a snag in years. The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
My real interest is in that "over/under" thing. If memory serves me, someone...maybe you, talked about this before.
Mighta been me; I seem to remember a thread about coiling extension cords a while back.
Here's a sketch and description of 'Alternate Hitch Coiling' (another name for what John is calling 'Over-Under Coiling'), from Brion Toss's excellent book, The Rigger's Apprentice:
View ImageDinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
YOu are right Dino....there was a thread about two and a half years ago...and I still didn't learn then! It's been a mystery in my life and I feel unfulfilled.
Thanks for that picture....I like that hat. Also I just realized while starting John explanation that I had to reach underhand to grap. Up to now, I was always attemping to reach the same and turn differently which just won't work...our arms aren't on swivels!
Duh!
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
bump
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
bump-a-dump.
??
You just score a bunch of hose or something?
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
no, i haven't been able to figure out how to coil things properly, so I did a search to find the threaeds (2 of them ) and bumped them up so I could find them easier.
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
Did this help?
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
haven't had a chance to look hard at it, just find them
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
It's not that hard to learn from the diagram and description I pasted into that post earlier in this thread. It is, however, counter-intuitive.
When you bring in the reversed hand and the part you're holding winds up inside the loop you just formed, you think you're going to tie a bunch of knots in it. But you're not. Trust Mr. Toss. It works.
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
Nice to see there's other knot nerds here. I thought you and I were the only ones. :-)http://costofwar.com/
Why knot?
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
tried doing this but....I start with the cord in my right hand with a counter clockwise loopthe twist my left hand palm out, grab the cord, and twist my left hand palm in
next loop counter clock, next loop left hand palm, etcit looks like it workswe'll see.think i'm follwing the directions. but it says clockwise, which it would be if I held it in my left hand and coiled with my right hand.
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
Here's a video presentation of the over-under coiling method.
http://stagecraft.theprices.net/gallery/cablewrap/cablewrap-rm.html
Thanks KevO! I've tried to learn that method many times from different posters in here, but I've never succeeded.
I think I now can do it.
blue
Since we're talking about air hose--or electrical cable or braided rope--which has no 'lay', it doesn't really matter if you coil it clockwise or counterclockwise. This, of course, is heresey on a boat. On a boat, all lines are coiled 'with the sun'...which means clockwise, the direction the sun moves around you in a day. The reason for this is that when the excrement hits the ventilator on a boat, you frequently don't have time to blink, let alone check to see which way the last guy coiled down the line you need to let run out right now. So it's a safety issue, and a serious one.
The only exception to this rule is for twisted (as opposed to braided) line which is left-laid, as opposed to the almost universal right-laid. There is very little of this nowadays; a true cable would be left-laid, being made from three right-laid three-strand ropes laid up left-handed.
And, of course, any twisted line is coiled clockwise without the alternating hitches. You just put an additional clockwise half twist in each flake as you coil clockwise.
But for the stuff you are likely to work with on your jobsites--hoses, extension cords, kernmantle climbing ropes used for safety harnesses--it doesn't matter as long as you are the only one handling the stuff. If you are working with other people you probably ought to learn to do it clockwise, to avoid confusion.
If you're a lefty, this may be one of those things it will be worth the trouble to learn to do with your right hand. Coiling clockwise with your left hand requires you to twist your wrist in a way that it isn't built for....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
@@ The Constrictor Hitch or Miller's Hitch or Bag Hitch (used to try grain sacks)
Very useful knot. I use it in the same application - attaching lanyards to cords, etc.
It's a clove hitch - with an overhand knot under the top turn. Huhh?
Assume a cord running left to right before you. Right handed typer.
Make your clove hitch wrap = line comes up from left, over top of cord headed to right, around the cord and overtop of itself headed left, around the cord again and back up parallel to the first (buried) turn.
Stop. Look at it. For a clove hitch the bitter end would now pass under the turn which covers the first turn (one headed to upper left). For a constrictor hitch you tie an overhand knot on the standing part (first turn) and bury it under the cross turn.
FWIW - you can get through life with about 15 knots and this is one of them.
Another useful one is the Stuns'l Tack Bend - a set of half hitches tied upside down. It jams.The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Tool, you knot guys have it all over on me. I'm struggling with two knot....my shoelaces and the one on my head where my wife whacked me for smarting off to her.
And I gotta tell you....ou knot guys are speaking in different languages...I bookmarked a few pages and after I take a few courses in Latin, I think I'll have a chance!
It was a huge discovery to me that there was two different ways to tie your shoes using a typical bow knot! I learend that in that last thread on coiling hoses a coupla years ago in here.
I learn the darndest things in here!
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
I tie the constrictor in hand, the memory rhyme is:
Twist and hold, twist and fold.
Then slip it over the end of the item you're tying it to. The constrictor locks up very tight, it's no use trying to untie it. But it has the great advantage that when the tie wears out, you can simply cut through the bridge of the knot with a knife, there's another layer of sash cord under it to protect the hose or cable.
-- J.S.
I always carry a roll of electrician's tape in my pouch, and use it to tie up extension cords and air hoses. Comes in handy as a quick clamp, band-aid, or a million other things. Cheap, won't wear out, and you don't have to worry about losing it.
I may as well put in my two cents worth. After years of fighting 500 feet of air hose I bought the water hose reel cart. Sam's sells these for about 60 dollars and it is well worth it. The cart is on four wheels and we roll it off the trailer to the compressor and unroll the hose. At the end of the day we roll it back on. It is quick and painless. I bought another one for my large extension cords. We wonder how we ever worked without them. Harbor Freight sells them but the quality is lacking.
James Hart
I have a much easier solution James: after wrestling with 500 feet of hoses and 500 fet of cords and 5 or ten saws... I decided to just let the guys carry their own!. They buy the saw and cords (we've bought their replacements when they go bad) and we give them nail guns, staplers and cords and have them transport them themselves! This eliminates the need for a huge supply truck (we keep our supplies in job boxes) and it also gives the guys a chance at a tax deduction on their gas and trucks because they are REQUIRED to transport their employers tools.
I call that win-win.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
JR,
That flex eel is great for long runs, but does have the propensity to get hung up on stuff.
Personally, IMO, get yourself a bunch of 5, 10 and 20 foot lengths of standard rubber air hose with QC fittings. Most jobs don't need that 50' menagerie.
Best product I ever came across was a 3/8" cloth covered rubber air hose sold by Sears 30 years ago. Great product...and nowhere to be found today 'cept garage sales and Ralph Wicklands workshop.
WSJ