temporarily “folding” sheetrock
I have an attic reno coming up and due to the configuration of the 2 stairways, there is no way to hump full 12′ sheets drywall into the space. In fact, 8 footers won’t go either. Once or twice in the past, when I’ve had tight quarters to pass drywall through, I have cut the paper on the backside of the sheets, then snapped and gently folded the piece (effectively making it smaller) to get it through a restricted opening (being careful not to form a crease on the good side of the fold). Then I’ve unfolded and hung it without creating another butt joint to tape. Has anyone ever done anything like this before?
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I've done that a few times, but only with a couple of boards on any one job.
Is there any way to get access thru a window, and have the rock boomed into the room?
I had that same problem on this attic finishout, and to make it worse, they saved a few dollars during original construction and installed single hung windows. I had to call out a window contractor to remove and replace the uppeer sash.
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You didn't have to take the window out, that boom coulda put those sheets right thru with the window there. I have a similar situation coming up where I need to get a long beam in an attic. I think we're going to put in a new window as part of the project.
Has anyone ever done anything like this before?
Yup. Still undecided if it's just easier to rip them full and have more seams to float.
does eliminate the taping ... but plan on skim coating that middle "seam" ... as it never folds back completely flat. I grew up remodeling old mill housing ... finishing basements ... where nothing fit down those damn stairs.
Hundreds of sheets of drywall scored and folded ... and carried down 2x8 ...
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
If the volume of sheetrock warrants it and the floor finishes below aren't a problem.........Have cut open the floor/ceiling and passed them up.
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i learned that as a tip for putting full size sheets on the back wall of small closets. measure and cut for actual size, slice and fold to get in the door, the open it up to attach
I did this once, When I straightened the piece, it didnt seat on the edge very well. so when I forced it straight, the paper separated a little on both sides of the hinge. Didn't look too bad until it was painted, now it looks terrible.
If I ever do this again, I will take the time to take a rasp or a utility knife and knock off some of the gypsum on both edges of the hinge.
I've only done this a few times for closets. I made sure the fold landed on a stud. You can see every fold. Might work if you were going to skim coat as was mentioned in a previous post.
I may have done that Redford, back in my remodeling days.
That technique actually works excellent on new work on inside 45 degree corners. Just score and snap and instll. The corner is done...no taping.
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