Here, in the latest update, I would like everyone to excuse me while I think a few thoughts not suitable for church.
OK, I feel better now. Gentle translation: Mike Holmes wasn’t here. Ever.
About the only change made to this 1957 ranch over the years was the addition of a 5′ x 9′ “laundry room” to the house. This addition was tacked on to the bathroom, and access was through a 40″ opening in what was once the exterior wall of the house.
For a number of reasons, I decided to demolish this addition. I was not the least surprised to find that nearly every detail of the addition was a rather creative effort by someone with no money, no materials, and not a clue as to what he was doing. Among his foibles were:
1) A leaking roof connection that directed rainwater into one of the walls;
2) Washer water was simply dumped into the crawl space; and,
3) The ‘foundation” was made of stacks of concrete blocks, randomly arranged.
At least he used a header over the large opening in the bearing wall. Several test holes and hammer soundings revealed solid wood over the doorway. So, today I was all set to instal a (temporary) window into the wall. At this point, I have had the opening closed by a single sheet of 3/4″ plywood. Later, when my framer returns, we’d “make it pretty,” adding the requisite studs. After all, I need something to attach the drywall and siding to!
That, anyway, was the plan. No plan ever survives the first hammer blow.
No sooner do I strip the old drywall from over the doorway than I find the fine bit of craftsmanship pictured below. Click on the pic, and you’ll get a larger view.
Here’s what you are looking at: It appears that there was once a small window on the left side of the opening. Notice the header? Our handy-dandy, in making his doorway, had removed the cripple stud from under one end of the header. He had cut off the king stud. He then used a bit of 2×4 to span over to the next stud, then naild it to the other stud.
Now, I’m not sure what the codes specify for supporting a 48″ span in a bearing wall, but I’m pretty sure you’re not allowed ti rely upon the shear strength of a couple nails.
I’m rather amazed that there hasn’t been more failure at this point. I didn’t even have drywall cracks to clue me in.
Confirms my decision to make this a complete-gut remodel.
Replies
What the...
I guess it somewhat served its function for a while. I bet it was easy to remove.
ah
nice gravity holds things like this and air pressure comming from the dryer ,hot humid air rises and holds headers
,thats why you can cut out the jack stud .
sounds good to me
OK, so now let's fix it. Your advice (everyone)?
What size header? Single or double jack studs? Reduce the span to 36?
Single story ranch, roof loads only. Low slope roof in low snow area. Existing king studs 48" on center. Somewhere in that space I will put a 36" wide window (exact position doesn't matter to me).
We now see how to do it WRONG. Let's tell everyone how to do it RIGHT.
Single jack studs, single trimmer, 4x4 header will be fine.
The IBC span tables seem to call for a header made of at least a pair of 2x'6's.One jack stud, or approved hangers, will do.
I can't use the existing header at all, as I have a larger opening to span. There's a 3-ft. window going there.
I'm debating whether to try to jack up the very slight dip (about 1/4") that there is in the middle of the span.
That old header will make a good chopping block for the kitchen.
I thought the original jack studs are 48" on center. So the header is too short for a 36" window? Yeah, 2x6 header should be good, that was what I wrote before editing my post, because I thought the header was 48". Why not use what you have and put in a smaller window?
When I bought the house two years ago, there was a 'laundry room' added to the bathroom. This area was entered through a 40" opening that had been put in the outside, bearing wall. There was no obvious sag or crack in the drywall to suggest a support problem.
The addition had other issues. As part of my plan, I demolished the area. I thought to put a window in place.As a temporary measure, last winter I closed off the opening with a sheet of plywood, and insulated it. Now that nice weather is here, I am making my changes to the outside walls.
My bathroom remodel involved opening ALL walls. This was when I discovered the framing mess you see.
I speculate that the short header you see once allowed for a 24" window in the wall- a window removed when the laundry room was built. The studs supporting one end of the header were chopped off, and lumber scraps added to bridge from the header to the 2x4 framing the right side of the opening. This 2x4 is just tall enough to close the opening, stopping more than a foot from the topof the wall.
There proved to be NO wood connecting this 2x4 to the next stud.
It was worse than I thought; a 4-ft span with NO support at all.
Well, today I framed in the new wall. I'll post a pic later.