Replies

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   Guest_ | Apr 10, 1999 12:21am | #1

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   In order to save more time, Jim, you may also prefer to use construction cement like Liquid Nails for the tiles -- just put a squiggle on the back of each one. You can save time grouting, as well, by pouring a self-leveling cement (the kind used to level floors)over the tiles and just whisking off any excess. Then in a month or so, you can rip it all out and start over again. The point is that the steps you're seeking to avoid are just as critical to the floor's viability as bedding the tiles in mortar and grouting them afterward. Don't cut corners.

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   Guest_ | Apr 10, 1999 12:56am | #2

   *Barry, I'm not trying to cut corners, I try to do a quality job in everything I do. At least I'm not putting down tile directly over the subflooring as the builders(?) of my house did. Many of the tiles are cracked between the joists because of the subfloor flexing..I've just heard different advice from different sources..Also would you recommend screwing down cement board instead of the roofing nails? Can I use sheet rock screws instead of the $$ coated screws. This is for a family room, kitchen, hallway area... thanks for any help

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   Guest_ | Apr 10, 1999 01:59am | #3

   *Jim,Sorry about the retort, but you see a lot of people who are looking for the easy or quick solution. It's hard to be patient with that attitude. The guidance you'd get from something like Michael Byrne's "Setting Tile" should see you through a good tiling job. I mentioned on another thread that screws are easier on opposite plaster walls and ceilings than are pounded nails. This was the case with my upstairs bathroom above a plaster ceiling. Screws were the better choice over nails. I haven't found galvanized deck screws to be that much more expensive than quality drywall screws, but I don't see the advantage of a galvanized screw for inside work, either.As to your original query, imbed the cement board in thinset and fasten the field, not just the edges. Be sure to tape and mud the seams, also.

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   Guest_ | Apr 13, 1999 07:52am | #4

   *Barry's right on the Byrne books and tapes I have them and think they are great. I'm still laughing at Barry's first post. He is right there too. Tile is a very long term product and I would hate to re-do a floor I lay. They are hard as rock, and they should be, flexing floors will ruin a nice job, a tile floor is only as good as what it is on. I first set all high nails in a subfloor, then I screw the whole thing down with 2" screws. Then I set cement board in thin set and screw this to the sub floor (use mesh tape and thinset to tape the joints of the cement board, like you would drywall). Then I tile in thin set. Extremely solid floor that should last years and years.

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   Guest_ | Apr 13, 1999 08:07am | #5

   *Ditto on J.D.'s advice. For screwing the cement backer board, I don't use drywall screws, I use the screws made for securing cement board. They're pricey but strong enough so the necks don't snap.