Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 12, 2000 03:32am | #1

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   frito

   A drawing would go a long way to helping visualize this wall, but each set of headers as you call them (lintels) will act as a hinge point if there isn't a continuous top plate to solidify everything. The top plate may need to be jointed, but the joints must be in mid span of any lintel, thereby taking away a hinge point. A doubled top plate with staggered joints is even better.

   The added on 3' kneewall is also a recipe for hinging especially if the exterior sheathing doesn't span the join. Better to re-sheath the entire wall with ply laid horizontally starting with a 2'sheet at the bottom so that the framing joint is well covered with ply. Try not to let any vertical joint in the sheathing corespond with the edge of a window frame. Nail it off at twice the normal nailing schedule (like for a shear wall).

   Baring that remove the window frame king studs and replace with ones that go up to the 11' level (minus plate) or sister on new studs to the king studs and take them full height. This will reduce the effective insulating cavities however.

   Several way to skin this cat. .. maybe a complete reframing would be quicker.

   -pm

2. 
   nathan_w | Aug 12, 2000 07:44am | #2

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   How long is this wall, or/and what is the reveal between window openings?

   Double blocks, nailed together, and nailed center to ply break line, and give the ply perimeter edge nailing that an engineer calcs out for you.

   This wall could also get a shear panel on the inside, laid up horizontally as per above, after an ok to cover for mechanical inspection.

   Header over windows should/could be continuous or pieced/strapped from end to end. Hardware connections at header-to-end posts. Hardware connection post bottom to foundation. If wood columns are used, find someone who is experienced, who can load some tension into the hold downs as he goes. Investigate continuous threaded rod into the foundation. The top of the rod is passed through a substantial block, like a 6x12, that is nailed up between single or double studs, at the end of the wall. Large washer/spring/nut on top.

   just options, not really advice.

1. 
   frito-man | Aug 13, 2000 04:44am | #3

   *the wall in question is 32' in length with window spacing of about 1 foot apart. In that space are 2 full length studs to the old top plate (8') and 2 jack studs to support the headers. w about a 6" airspace between. I was thinking about adding some 2x4x16's to the old top plate and running them to the top of the new trusses. I have three rat runs tied in but still not much help.

1. 
   nathan_w | Aug 13, 2000 05:55am | #4

   *I think what you should do is, go hire an engineer to give you an intelligent solution, that works with the existing frame in the most i efficientway possible.:^)

3. 
   Guest_ | Aug 18, 2000 11:11pm | #5

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   Hi frito Man.

   I am not positive about understanding your situation. I do have some thoughts however.

   First, when you add a 3' knee wall on top of an 8' wall, the joined area becomes a hinge. Check to see if there is movement there.

   To add strength to walls, sheath them. Also, put solid blocking between the studs at top, bottom and middle of wall. Always use PL400 with your assemblies. And use #10 nails to secure plywood to studs, never drywall screws.

   Hope this helps.

   alan joseph samson
   [email protected]

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 24, 2000 08:06am | #6

   *I would think that at every full stud or king stud you could notch the top plate and sister full height studs to the new top plate and add your cripples. Then sheet with osb or plywood and be good there. Also I think Alan has stock in PL400......LOL

4. 
   nathan_w | Aug 24, 2000 09:15am | #7

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   this is a good idea, with windows one foot apart.

   Good spot to invest in a box of sinkers, and a palm nailer.

   am I correct that there is currently six inches of space to work with between king studs? maybe too tight for even a palm nailer.

5. 
   frito_Man | Aug 24, 2000 09:17am | #8

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   Remodeling a sun room, Replaced a 1/12 pitch shed roof with 32' trusses. I built a knee wall to level the walls under the trusses. Problem is the back wall (away from the house) (was load bearing but not now) is very loose you can shake it about 2" in and out. the wall has 9- 6'x 32" windows floor level spaced evenly along the wall. The 3 middle windows are coming out for a 6' swinger. Each window also has a seperate 2separateeader above each window. The ceiling is not in yet. and it has 11' ceiling, but the old studs and top plate are at 8' Ineed to mI needhis wall alot stiffer to support the winds and this door....thanks