I’m looking to redo the tile floor in my kitchen. Present tile is about 10 years old, a few cracks in the ceramic surface where large pans or whatever hit the floor. I had it “professionally” installed, (installer looked all of 20, not a shot at youth but I would have rather a more experienced installer).I had glued and screwed down a new subfloor, filled screw holes with wallboard compound and belt sanded the whole thing. On this redo I want the best tile I can get. What do I look for?
Is there an unbiased “rating” system?
I’ve heard cases for both a thin ceramic top and a thick?
Advice for removing what is there?
Thanks,
TJ
Replies
There are two ratings for tile, hardness and moisture rating. Softer tiles usually absorb moisture more, so the ratings seem to be the same. All tiles will chip if a cast iron pot is dropped on them.
Your best installations are thick mud bed. This produces a flatter floor and the tiles are easily removed if you want to change them. The thick mud bed is resistant to building movement and if properly installed, will not transmit cracks to the tile.
My favorite for floors happens to be mosiac. If one is chipped, it is an easy job to replace a single 1" tile. The square mosiacs are easier to re-grout. The hex type are better looking.
Natural stone is dificult to install, and the floor must be rock solid and dead flat.
Removing tile is easy, just start whacking it with a demolition hammer and use a floor hoe to scrap off the surface. The remaining adhesive can usually be thinsetted over or a layer of SLC can be poured to make the area flat and cover the remants of the adhesive.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927
Removing your present floor should be cake being that theres no concrete under it unless the "kid" used glue rather then thinset in which case you'll have a lot of serious scraping to do..As Boris said a "mudjob with wire in it" is the best but also CBU 's(cement boards, such as Wonderboard)are also a good alternative. If your new "older more experianced installer" wants to use cement boards be sure he or she thinsets UNDER the boards and fiberglasses all seams. Also make sure your installer uses a liquid latex additive to the thinset rather then just water if thinsets the way they go. As Boris said there ARE ratings for the hardness of tiles. I'd ask your supplier to recommend something that suits your families needs (dropsies...lol). I believe a #5 is the hardest they make. Speak with your supplier concerning all the variables you will need with the tile you are buying. An experianced installer can install ANYTHING you want.....No offense anyone, but I'd go with someone a bit older andddddd experianced. Get references and go look at the work he or she did not that that helps all te time but it certainly can't hurt....Good luck
Be well
Namaste
Andy
It's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
thanks for the info, I'll get a couple of installers to come out and recommend/quote.
I don't read any need for mixing with latex.
Just use a good thinset...like Mapei UltraFlex.....and that's plenty latex right in the dry mix for most any new ceramic install......just mix with water.
Save the latex admix for tough to bond subsurfaces.....or tough to bond stone.
Jeff.......Sometimes on the toll road of life.....a handful of change is good.......