Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 01, 1999 04:45am | #1

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   Sounds like a decent idea. Are the bricks painted or of the glazed variety? This may reduce your bonding strength over time.

   You need to post some before and after pics of this.

   Pete Draganic

2. 
   Tripp_Huey | Jul 01, 1999 07:33am | #2

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   Agree with Pete and would like to add that dirty bricks will also give problems with long term bond strength. If the face of the fireplace is plumb and flat and crack free you should be able to set tiles right on the bricks. If the surface is not flat you should float a layer of "mud" on the surface of the bricks. A layer of thinset between the brick and the mud will give good strength.

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 01, 1999 08:54am | #3

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   Gentlemen, think preparation. Other than ascertaining that the brick are secure in their place, it does not matter what condition the brick is in.

   Why is it even necessary to consider the bond of the mud to the brick? The mud is embedded in and bonds to the lath, not to the substrate--in this case, brick--so I suggest BobB proceed to the next step.

   The next step is afixing the lath to the brick. I have done several jobs exactly as he seems to be talking. Using concrete screws with flat washers, I hang the lath on the brick. (I use alloy #8 x 4" screws) I screw every 8" horz. & vert. Be sure to screw into the mortar joint for added strength.

   Also, I can't imagine the brick--where 3/8" +/- is acceptable--being flat or level enough to be tiled directly onto the brick. It would be slow going as you burn through the thinset trying to level the tiles as you go. I mean, just what kind of job do you want here?

   If you don't want to--or can't--float a mud setting bed, at least use a tile backerboard. Furr and shim on Z channel, or other non-combustible furring strip to plumb the board.

   I'll give the Tripster an "A" for effort, but it's the wrong road.

4. 
   BobB | Jul 09, 1999 03:59am | #4

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   Thanks, Pete. The bricks aren't painted or glazed. I'll probably go right over the face with some thinset mud and tile directly, rather than float a mud bed or use backer board. The bricks are very even (less than 1/16" variation) so I should be fine.

   Thanks for the words of encouragement!

   Bob

1. 
   BobB | Jul 09, 1999 04:01am | #5

   *Thanks for the advice. The bricks aren't painted, dirty or glazed, so I'll probably take your suggestion and go right over the face with some thinset mud and tile directly, rather than float a mud bed or use backer board. The bricks are very even (less than 1/16" variation) so I should be fine.Thanks!Bob

1. 
   BobB | Jul 09, 1999 04:04am | #6

   *Thanks for the advice, Rich. Since tile is not my area of expertise, I'll probably go right over the face with some thinset mud and tile directly, rather than float a mud bed or use backer board. The bricks are very even (less than 1/16" variation), and I'll be using fairly large tiles (12"x12") so I should be fine. If it's not going to work, I'll know soon enough and hire a pro.Thanks again!Bob

5. 
   BobB | Jul 09, 1999 04:04am | #7

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   I'm working with a late 70's ranch house with a very dated brick fireplace surround. It would really update the look, if I install ceramic tile over the brick face. Any problems with this?

   Thanks!