Replies

1. 
   Will | Jan 19, 1999 10:38pm | #4

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   I have a question regarding PVC liners and how to float a mud bed. I just had my pan (PVC liner) signed off by the inspector and now the inspector wants to come back to sign off on the lath. My question is how does one typically install (lay) the lath on the pan without running the risk of damaging the liner? I realize that the lath is not attached to the pan. So, is it just a matter of carefully laying the lath on the liner and having the inspector come by and sign off on it? Incidentally, I plan on using CBU (wonderboard) for the walls which the inspector needs to see as well.

   thanks

2. 
   Guest_ | Jan 20, 1999 12:08am | #5

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   Will, place the lath in the verticle center of the mortar bed. Cut the lath about 1/2" short of the pan at the walls. I think the lath inspection to which you refer is for walls, deck, etc. I can't imagine the inspector wanting to come back just to look at a single piece of lath laying on a shower floor.

3. 
   Jana | Jan 26, 1999 11:53pm | #6

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   In looking at your pricing for the work for the shower pan...I was wondering. I got an off the cuff quote at the tile store last week.

   Labor and materials(tile) to demo just the shower pan and reinstall a new shower pan and to retile would be around $1400. THis place also indicated that if I did all the demo it woudl reduce the price considerable. But when I told them that I still wanted to to do the walls they told me that for another $500 they would do the walls too.

   THis all seems very pricey. THis is in Omaha.

   Can anyone explain to me what they may have ment by this off the cuff converstation.

4. 
   Guest_ | Jan 27, 1999 02:17am | #7

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   Shows you what happens when you get off the cuff quotes. Ask anyone who hasn't seen the site or gone into detail with you, and you'd probably get a similar response. Of course, $1,900 does sound like someone's been up in too many grain elevators. I have also found job quotes to be much higher when I've obtained them from tile centers than when I've talked to independent contractors. It's sort of like why hog farmers hereabouts are only getting ten cents a pound on the hoof(foot?), but boneless loins are still $3.99 a pound.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 27, 1999 03:23am | #8

   *Jana, I agree with Barry re: the estimate you were given. I'm willing to bet you gave them, in the course of your conversation, more information which you have given here.The tile store will, generally, have a higher overhead than independant contractors. This will be reflected in their price to you. It can be misleading for you to take a standard unit cost, used for bidding purposes, and tally that against any other quote you may receive.The unit costs discussed earlier in this subject are primarily for bidding purposes; to establish a starting point. For me, they work for a standard installation in a standard setting with standard dimensions using standard materials. The data used to compile such information is anecdotal and proprietory. (Note: it was cost, not price, which was provided earlier in this subject.)Therefore, to say that someone's quote is out of line relative to a unit cost provided by others is unjustified. That they were willing to cooperate with you as far as you doing the demo work says alot about them. Some installers take offense when you wish to do some of the work yourself.If still in doubt, you can always acquire 2-3 sdditional quotes from installers in your area. You must decide if you really want the work done though. While I do not condone "bid shopping", I understand its value. If you are unsure about getting the work done, to go out and get bids is only a waste of everyone's time.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 27, 1999 04:11am | #9

   *I agree with both Barry and Rich, especially about the hog prices. Some guys are really suffering here in Iowa. Unfortunately for me, the big tile dealer in town is slowly gaining a monopoly on installation. All his profit is in the material sale, pays his installers marginally, etc. My opinion is that the customer gets a marginal installation. Looks OK on the surface but as we know its whats underneath that really counts. Makes me work harder on my salesmanship. I mainly agree with Rich on shopping around. I hate nothing more than to put time in on a potential job only to have the customer end up going with the low bidder.Jana...I assuming you have decided not to try the pan yourself??Dave

5. 
   Jana | Jan 28, 1999 12:58am | #10

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   Thanks, for the advice. No I haven't even got the book yet. I was just shopping for tile and had this discussion. They have their own crew, but are perfectly willing to sell to DIY. I am very leary of going with any of the big outfits. I would have to agree about the quality. Right now I am still running down the path to do this my self.

   I did run into a problem with demo. I have developed an allergic reaction to my goggles.(at least that is what the doctor believes) And no I didn't get hit with falling debris or worse smack my self with the sledge. Has anyone else had that happen to them. I have to go find another pair that won't make my nose swell up.

   Remember...saftey first :)

6. 
   Guest_ | Jan 28, 1999 08:13pm | #11

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   What is the going rate in your area to install a mortar bed shower pan with CPE liner, not including tile or plumbing. Also, what do you folks charge to float a mortar bed wall. I want to compare what I charge to others. My pans are mortar, CPE, mortar and curb. On the rare occastion I float a wall they are asphalt gum, 15# felt, poultry netting, mortar. I usually just use backerboard with 15# felt behind. Thanks all, have a nice weekend.

   Dave

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 17, 1999 10:56am | #1

   *You don't say where you live and work; although I do recall from an e-mail that you are in Iowa. This is imprtant, to me, at least.I'd like to know everyone elses first, then I MAY give mine. But seeing that you're not having any "hits" on your post, I, ah, I guess I'll go first. But you gotta' promise to give me yours.I break this down to a unit cost, based on S.F. So for scratch & brown on walls I figure $3.50 +/-. The +/- depends on the "degree of difficulty". If the job is second floor--or third, fourth, fifth, etc--around back, up a narrow stairwell, the cost goes up. For a "normal" size pan installation, I charge $75.00. This is labor & material for a vinyl membrane over a pre-float for a floor up to 18 S. F. This is pretty much a fixed cost, as I require minimal material to haul to the site.Too, there is a volumne discount. If it is for one of my regular contractors, or a big job(motel, etc) I knock the cost down.Now it's your turn.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 17, 1999 07:28pm | #2

   *Rich:Thanks for the response. Didnt think anyone wanted to venture off into the abyss. My prices are comparable to yours. I charge 3.00/sf for a wall float +/- for the cross the field with the big dogs to get to the steps to the second floor. I have a flat rate of $100.00 for a shower pan up to 15sf.Dave

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   Darryl_Hodge | Jan 18, 1999 07:39am | #3

   *Weight & Pulley WindowsI would like to know where I can find a book orvideo that shows me how to fix these old windows?