I have a customer who has asked me if I would be interested in installing a tin ceiling in her bathroom.
This particular tin ceiling was purchased some time ago to be installed but somehow managed to find its way to the back of the shed amidst a pile of junk. No original package or information, just a sheet of tin and one length of molding (looks like a piece of crown molding).
I have no experience with this type of installation, so am looking for a little info from my favorite “gathering place”.
Did a little research so far, but haven’t found anything explained to detailed, but will continue. In the meantime, could someone give me on overview of installing a tin ceiling with the crown trim that goes with it?
The bathroom is quite small (5×5), so this is perfect for my first attemt at the tin install.
Does a base need to be attached to the ceiling such as ply or strips?
I couldn’t find any “tin” nails with the material. “What to do”? 🙂
How do I go about cutting the molding (crown)? Snips? Saw?
How do I achieve the crown angle? Is it cut on a saw like you would with wood crown molding? Or is it coped?
I’m sure I’ll have more questions, but this will help me get going to formulate a plan.
Mick
Replies
I've done a couple of these, but it's been awhile. Also, the last one was copper which is easier than tin to cut.
Does a base need to be attached to the ceiling such as ply or strips?
Plywood or OSB. Something to nail to.
I couldn't find any "tin" nails with the material.
Use roofing nails.
How do I go about cutting the molding (crown)? Snips? Saw?
How do I achieve the crown angle? Is it cut on a saw like you would with wood crown molding? Or is it coped?
Snips - you'll need both reds and greens.
Coped on both sides, basically. One side will be cut a little longer than your mark (1/2" or more) and will be snipped and folded behind the other side which will be a clean cope. Take your time and trim a little at a time and refit repeatedly until you get it.
And get some neosporen and bandaids before you start. Gloves are good, too.
View Image
"Coped on both sides, basically. One side will be cut a little longer than your mark (1/2" or more) and will be snipped and folded behind the other side which will be a clean cope. Take your time and trim a little at a time and refit repeatedly until you get it. "
Could you explain this technique a little more to me, I'm not sure if I'm following you?
Basically, I would put a piece of molding "flush" cut, up at opposite ends of the room and then the other two pieces would each be cut and coped on each individual side, correct?
So I would be coping two individual pieces of molding, with each piece being coped on both ends. I'm with you to there,right?
How do "you" go about marking your coping angle on the piece to be cut?
How do "you" go about marking your coping angle on the piece to be cut?
Pencil. Cut a couple of short pieces to use as tests. Put one up in the corner as if it was the piece to be coped to. Then trim the other piece until you have a good cope on it. Use the coped piece to mark the other piece. Then cut proud of your mark and snip to your mark and bend the excess so it fits behind the coped piece. That will close any gap. Use those two pieces as patterns to cut the rest.View Image
I think I'm with ya' now.
Your actually coping both sides of all four pieces, so that you can make a bend behind each corner, right?
What do you suggest I use to make the bends in the tin?
Thanks for your advice BTW
The last one I did a few yrs ago had special "Cone Head" nails that went into the design, like a bulls eye center.
Otherwise just like you said for everything else.There were 2'x4' panels that had edge overlaps as well to be nailed,not blind but lapped and nailed thru. The first pc was stapled.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Curious why the first piece is stapled?
I was following the manufactures install instructions. The staples are flat , and then covered by the lapped second pc OR the edge crown. The cone head nails ( I still have them somewhere around here) would have left a bump at the lap, so the nail goes in a small divot in the pattern, about 8" center IIRC.The nails are about a 4D finish, with a special head and these were silverish, but BRIGHT, not antique or anything. I didn't have to predrill, but did bend a few.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
I'm not sure what kind of nails this ceiling calls for, will have to look closer next time I'm there.
Are tin ceiling nails something that can be bought off the shelf if I should need to purchase some?
Never seen em in a store, we hadda get more, and the company sent out a box. I'd check online with a company that sells the cielings.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
These guys have the parts you may need - nails, cornice pieces, etc. Installation instructions are here http://www.abbingdon.com/howto.asp
I recently did one using the same methods that Sphere mentioned. I put up furring strips on 1 foot centers (was handy since the ceiling was 2" out of level anyway) and used the cone nails for holding them up. Back priming is a good idea to avoid rust if there is a chance of moisture - the panels are just plain steel, after all. Paint and caulk must both be oil based. I used Benjamin Moore Impervo for the paint, and glazing compound for caulking. Spray painting worked as well as a foam roller. I coped by scribing and trying.
Hope this helps. Rich
Awesome guys, thanks for links.
First, back prime the panels. You don't have many to do plus the way the material was stored the extra insurance would be nice.
The panels I've used had a design where a single bead overlapped and was drilled and nailed with a 3d nail. When painted the bead/nail passed as a standard bead. I helped to simulate a domed look of the bead by brushing caulk over the nailed bead. Some lines have matching dome nails.
I like 3/4" furring on 16" centers across the joist. Level as required under the furring. Can't help with the crown but I think experimentation is in order with a coped joint.
Mick, Take a look here, they have info and videos...buic
http://www.americantinceilings.com/installation/nailup.html
been looking at this for an upcoming project. Most panels are 2 X 2 so I would suggest using 4 panels and a 6 inch filler around the perimeter, there are usually filler patterns avail to compliment the main panels, cove around that, that's my 2 cents worth ..