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That’s a toughy Bill.
I had a custom lumber-rack built that has a toolbox built in. The front 4′ portion behind the cab has a diamond-plate floor flush with the top of the bed, and heavy steel mesh welded to supports like a cage. Lift up doors and a stainless steel roof top finish it out. The back of the rack is open like normal. I had 1″ steel dowels welded in at a 45 deg. angle for chain-up locks. To have it built and painted like my truck ran about $1,550. You can see around it pretty well
I,ve also seen a nice roll up, anodised aluminum bed cover that is waterproof and lockes up tight, and rolls into a storage box behind your cab. It was REAL nice, but a gas compressr won’t fit under it, or anything else taller than the bed.
Brent.
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That's a toughy Bill.
I had a custom lumber-rack built that has a toolbox built in. The front 4' portion behind the cab has a diamond-plate floor flush with the top of the bed, and heavy steel mesh welded to supports like a cage. Lift up doors and a stainless steel roof top finish it out. The back of the rack is open like normal. I had 1" steel dowels welded in at a 45 deg. angle for chain-up locks. To have it built and painted like my truck ran about $1,550. You can see around it pretty well
I,ve also seen a nice roll up, anodised aluminum bed cover that is waterproof and lockes up tight, and rolls into a storage box behind your cab. It was REAL nice, but a gas compressr won't fit under it, or anything else taller than the bed.
Brent.
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I don't have but am interested in systems like http://www.extendobed.com.
It would probably be a pain in the ass for downtown driving, but I really think I am going to get a 10' to 12' trailer with a side door. I think with the side door I can make a seperate "room" for tool and assorted hardware and behind this I can keep short ladders, trash carts, drywall carts, sawhorses, etc. Long ladders on top.
I currently have a former Ryder Rent a Truck Cube van. It has a 14' back and I got it as a kind of rolling garage, but mostly it is a mess. I installed a giant steel tool box in the front of it, but at the end of the day I am usually too tired to put me tools away, and I am forever having trash in the back to make getting stuff in and out difficult.
I think for me a trailer and a full size pickup with no tool boxes would work best, I can keep tools and trash seperate. I plan to have a portable tool box set up so I can do small jobs with out draging around the trailer.
Anyway, that's my plan I hope it works half as well as I think it might.
*JD I have looked into the trailer as a sort of rolling shop and don't think that it will work. Again downtown work and parking.Hard enought to get a full size truck into a parking garage much less a trailer. Have been leaning towards removing the bed on a import and doing my own.(This includes up grading springs and tires ect...ect) Leave out the over head racks or drop them lower to clear low spots haven't figured it all out yet but it seems like the best yet. Know what you mean about the van seems that more time is spend keeping them clean and keeping stuff back where it belongs that it ends up in the floor any way.
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I know what a hassle tool transport can be. Not only do you have to haul literally tons of expensive tools and materials around, you have to keep S.O.B.'s from stealing your stuff and putting you on welfare. The best solution I have come up with is to use a long wheelbase van with well thought out shelving.Fine Homebuildings Toolbox book has an excellent example of such a setup.
Another thing I have done a lot of is looking in the backs of other guys trucks to try to get some new good ideas. Allways remember to ask first to keep from having your butt kicked for being a suspected thief.
I think the ultimate idea would be to get one of tose new box vans that has a box just slightly wider and taller than the cab of the van.The fact that they have straight sides to build shelves on and a taller ceiling so that us old guys don't hurt our backs stooping seems to make them the answer to my prayers. These new vans are small enough to drive in the city and don't have such a high center of gravity. The best thing is that they are no more expensive than a regular van and sometimes can be found cheaper than a regular van.I am going to order one as soon as I get some bills paid off.
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You get your bills paid off? Mine just come back in thirty days. I have the bigger version of what you are talking about and for me it is always a mess. I thought of getting one and think they could work really well if you are neat.I am not in my truck. Maybe if I had a side door up front and could keep tools seperate and access them without crawling over the waste of yesterdays job which seemed silly to take all the way to the dump, when it was not a full load and I am going to just have more trash at the end of today.
I know a Plumber who has a Chevy version of the van you are refering to and he loves it, got the diesel and was getting 16 mpg to my 8. He is more anal about his truck though.
A side door and seperate tool /hardware area for me would be nice, maybe I will get the old sawzall out. The side door is half of the appeal of a trailer for me.
Bill, I know that it would probably too big for parking garages, but I have seen those Isuzu cab with the dual wheels that have had backs on them that are no higher than the cab and have huge side doors that open up like thoe job site chuck wagon trucks. I'll bet something like that could work on a pick up with out a bed. I thought of something like that and thought of seperating the sides with a 12" or so wide area I could haul a little sheetrock or a couple of doors. Near me is a truck body shop that puts boxes on trucks and There probably is one in your area. If it were not too complex you could probably get a custom back made. Maybe plywood and epoxy/fiberglass and you could come up with your own.
Just a thought on what is a topic I think about alot. I need a hobby I guess.
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I have an Isuzu cab with a 14' box with a roll-up
door and I am very happy with it. It turns sharper
than my old van and gets 12 to 16 mpg. I can keep
most of my tools in it and still have room for materials. I still haven't built racks in it because I haven't decided what would be the best setup. I would be interested in any ideas other
building/remodeling contractors had on their setups.
*I know a trailer isn't what you want, but I recently bought an enclosed (walk-in) utility truck body -- 101" long, 86" wide, with 9 15" deep exterior side compartments. I mounted it on a military surplus trailer frame. It has double rear doors, and a large sliding hatch on top, that opens up the back half of the inside box. That way, you can stand, load items with chainfall or tractor, etc. I'll build a short workbench with vise, etc so I can stand up to work at it. It came off a duallie lwb p/u. Something like this, on a truck, might work great. On the cheby, it stood about 7.5" off the ground. I'll have about $650 in mine, including body, trailer frame, dual wheels.alad
*How about a STAR WARS solution?I've been scheming about a self-propelled electric battery-powered toolchest/workbench that rolls down a ramp from the pickup, goes through a standard 3' door to your work area and can follow you home at night.Sort of like R2D2 with drawers. Maybe even a built-in step ladder, lights, and 12 volt radio.Does this have any utility? I've had experience with electric vehicle construction and thought it might. Cost is unknown.Gary Wheeler, AIA, Architect, General Contractorhttp://home.att.net/~g.wheeler
*STAR WARs....hmmmm...Maybe a stair-climber, too. And can carry drywall? :)Actually, this could be a workable thing. Ever see the tool/parts carts that they have on the NASCAR semi trailers -- six to eight feet long, maybe three wide, and six tall? Would be productive in maybe commercial work, where you are working in larger physical areas. A self propelled crew box. DP
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Get it to not only carry drywall but unload it from the truck and the world will beat a path to your door. Actually, what you describe will probably have a following. I remember an article in FHB about some guys who built this 20' long trailer that was in effect a rolling cabinet shop. Built in table saws, sides that hydralically lifted and became expanded roof, Tim Allen would have dropped dead.
*Gary, too many hours spent before the tube? Or did the new shipment arrive?I was leaning towards the Sherpa/Native Bearer approach. Purchase a small bus, insert Bearers Bearing... Drive to job site, expell contents. Pick up fares for 8+ hours to defray the fuel consumption (solves the parking too!) Assemble the Multitude, and venture forth.Low Tech I admit, but I've been wrestling the same subject for months. Mini or Full size, PU vs. Van, Box Truck, Trailer, Winning Lottery Ticket, Fleet Ownership...
*If you are going to use native bearers, why not just have them carry you to the site in a sedan chair? If the commute burns up too many daylight hours, make an expedition of it and pitch tents in the back yard and burn scrap wood!Actually, I was thinking about something shaped like the plywood box the olympic medal holders stand on. 3 steps, #3, #1, #2, or #1, #2, #3, about 30" wide, 6 or 8' long, 3 or 4' tall. Multiple wheels on one end so it will climb stairs, maybe 6 wheel drive would be necessary to climb stairs. Maybe we should have a crank-up arm for loading and raising drywall, stereo, work lights, cigarette lighter, fridge and a beer tap.Actually, I did stumble on one legitimate brain storm some time ago on a related idea. A self-propelled tool trailer licensed as a moped. In California, a moped license is only about $10 and lasts forever, no renewals. Can have two or three wheels, maximum of 1 horsepower or something like that. Nobody says you can't tow a moped behind a car as long as it has proper lights and tags. Maybe a simple battery powered drive wheel, retractable when towed. Eliminates yearly license renewal fees, makes it easy to park in city traffic (detach and drive onto lot). The original idea was for a self propelled hot dog wagon actually.Like the idea of the NASCAR tool cart, hadn't seen them. I have an electric moped in the back yard by the way. Did 25 MPH, but only had about a 12 mile range if I remember correctly. Burnt up the motor on a long trip on a 100 degree plus day coming back from a job site in another town.Excuse me while I turn my attention back to the tube and open up the new shipment of stuff...
*Gary, a Sedan Chair? Wow, what a concept... I'll run it by the crew in the Morning! Add a Official Grape Peeler, a couple of Fan Operators... a regular night on the Nile! Thanks for the insight, I knew that AIAaffiliation was worth the extra bucks!
*Lets not get ridiculous, I just want it to put in my 12 hours a day. Anyway, this was a serious discussion about hauling tools. Most of us can't justify an 18 wheeler even though we could fill one and ask how everyone else handles their tools. Time to discuss the serious matter of tools and getting them to and from the site.
*Sometimes the line between creativity and ridiculous is not very wide. Most of what I said was quite serious however.I don't do much on-site work anymore, but I'm still looking for ideas for better ways. That's why the discussion of self-propelled toolboxes. From my observation, some popular methods:Open pickup truck with contractor rack and side-opening tool box behind the cab. Very popular here, but tools are subject to theft, and things can blow out of truck and get lost or cause accidents. Lightweight toolboxes are easy for thieves to force open. Pickups are the way most people start out or do things, especially in rural areas. Pickups are almost unseen in europe by the way, they use vans. Camper shell limits tool access and is not popular on pickups here. If the pickup is treated well, resale value can be good, and it can double as family or recreational vehicle.Pickup with custom rear body panels/bed replaced by metal side box stytem by specialty manufacturer. Very pricy, makes it hard to resell the truck to non-contractors. Popular with utility companies. Tools are less subject to theft, but there are a lot of locks and doors to open and close.Van of somekind. Best protection from wet weather and theft, but manuverability is difficult in city traffic, and vision restricted. Often looks like a mess inside, and you have to climb over stuff sometimes or throw things around to get things in or out.Trailer. Can be handy, but difficult to park. Whole trailer can be subject to theft. Difficult to load 4x8 sheets unless trailer is extra large. Balancing the load becomes important.Loose toolboxes. Traditional, but inadequate for the number of power tools now used in many trades. If filled with power tools, they become too heavy or awkward to move.Job boxes. High security if attached to something. Difficult to move. Can be difficult to find something deep inside.Overseas cargo containers. Can be expensive, but roomy. Shelves on each side help organize. Best for large commercial jobs where it will be inside fence, and in one place for extended period, and there is sufficient lay-down area. Ventilation and/or lights may be needed. Good security. Good access to contents. I've seen two containers spaced apart parallel to each other with a truss roof spanning them for outdoor material storage and shade.
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What works for me, as a small remodeling contractor, is a trailer. I have a 10'long, by 5' wide, by 6' tall Wells Cargo trailer, that I tow with a 1998 one-ton Chevy van.I have a single axle on my trailer, but wish I had a dual axle. Granted, parking is a challenge at times, but every method of transporting our tools has it's drawbacks. I have my company logo on each side, and on the back, so I have instant advertising anywhere I go(especially on the job-site). It also allows me to use the van for other things than just work, or to use the van by itself to get materials. I have the inside of my trailer organized with the majority of the tools I own, and keep it well stocked with supplies. The less I have to leave a job, the better. I also carry lots of insurance, and don't leave it overnight in any suspect areas.
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Other than I want a Fullsize pick up that is the setup I really think I want to go with. I really want to be able to unhook the trailer and leave work behind. (I don't want extra vehicles at this point). I figure with a pickup I can haul materials and trash and devote a trailer to strickly tools. I want to divide a trailer into two areas seperated with plywood. In the front I plan on keeping a majority of my hand tools and supplies. In the back I will keep drywall carts trash carts, shop vacs etc.
Why dual axle? Weight? I guess it could be thousands of pounds of tools.
Seems like it would look like a pretty profesional setup, especially with good signage.
I do worry about someone hooking up and stealing my business, but I guess you can get hitch locks and chain the wheels.
*J.D., the dual axle tows better, is more stable in a cross-wind, and will provide a more stable environment when detached from the tow vehicle.In a single axle trailer, when parked, the forward weight is on the towbar jack; with a dual axle, a greater weight proportionally is on the axles.David Farrell noted the advantages of trailers in general, another popular item is the Step-Van style vehicle. (Bread Truck, Snap-On, MacTool, etc...) Trailer like rear, walk through, low entry height, and easier to negotiate in traffic.Problem is finding one, cheap and in good shape.Most are clapped out, 200K+ miles, rusted or dented beyond recognition. The good ones bring big money.
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Any ideas on how to keep all your stuff together and safe to and from the job. We have been using gang boxes and it's ok but there has to be something better. We've tried camper tops and step vans, to hard to drive in down town traffic. Have though about the side boxes you see so much and using a gang box on each truck. Any thoughts??????????