Trimming a Built-In Cabinet in an Alcove
I’ve got a recessed alcove in a wall, 55 inches wide, 80-1/2 inches tall and 13 inches deep. I want to build a cabinet into the alcove. The lower unit would have three doors and stand proud of the surrounding wall by 2 to 3 inches. The upper unit would be flush with the surrounding wall. Trimming our the upper with casing molding is straight forward. But how do I deal with the inevitable gap between the lower cabinet and the surrounding sheetrock? I figure at a minimum I’ll have a 1/8″ gap on the left and right sides.
How do you solve the problem of installing a built-in cabinet into an alcove? I’m hesitant to cover the gap with molding as the installation would look a lot cleaner if the sheetrock ended right on the cabinet sidewall. Thanks for any and all help.
Replies
Are you building these from scratch?
Is it possible to wrap the lower cabs past the edge of the wall (see photo attached)?
joe
Thanks, Joe. Yes, built from scratch. I thought about having the lower unit wrap around the wall like you did on the right side of your lower unit. Did you scribe the unit to the wall on the right side?Steve
Just a little, not really a full scribe though. Just a sander or a rasp.
When I built the right cabinet, I made the face from 2-3" wide on the right side. Then I made a spacer to go between the wall and the face frame. If you cut the back side of the spacer (the side that goes against the wall) at an angle, then a rasp is all you'll need to make it fit snug.
I personally like this look, I've used it a couple of times. I just happen to have a photo of the work in progress too.
That's just the ticket! Thanks for the photo.
Interesting that you drop in the side piece last after the base molding is in place. I guess it just drops into the bottom pocket and then pops right into place. How do you get it in and out to adjust the fit?
The bottom piece wasn't fastened yet. It was actually just sitting there.
U probably know this ... but I was amazed the first time I worked with a cabinet maker ... and realized I'd never thot of it before.
I was too used to working with stock cab filler's I guess ... full 3/4 thickness.
all his scribes ... mounted and loose ... he rabbited. Took a 1/2" x 1/2" rabit out of the back, so the leading edge was only 1/4 thick.
made scribing a much quicker/easier/gooder process!
I even rabit my stock cab fillers now when I can.
what took some work before is light work now.
I'll even thin that down more ... when I know I'm going up against something like brick or block. Then just a light run with the block plane and she's good to go.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
It seems I've had good luck with my walls. Most spacers could be snugged up with just a slight sanding. Hence why I use an angle on the backside. You can practically just break the point off to make it look great (or gooder if you prefer).
I like the idea of the rabit though if you have to do a full scribe to a bumpy surface. More meat to prevent damage to the spacer, easier to cut, hold it's shape in the long run.
BINGO!! That is the way I was taught cabinets "Should" be made. Made up spare stock out of any easy to plane scrap that matched the width of the face frame and scribed it to fit perfectly then transferred that pattern to the cabinet face frame.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
wrap it or scribe it.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Others put you on the right track. Pics speak louder than words so I did this real quick. Could bring the wings out further to side if need or want.
View Image
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
Thanks, Peter. Ain't SketchUp grand? Knock that pic out in a couple of minutes.