Trimming Stainless Steel Sheeting
SteveInCleveland
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I have two pieces of 18 gauge stainless steel sheeting for two areas on a custom countertop I am making. By design, I had the fabricator cut both pieces slightly oversized by approximately 1/8″. What would be the best way to trim them? I was planning to use contact cement to adhere them to the particleboard substrate, and then trim them with a flush trim bit in my router. I realize that I would destroy the bit, but am wondering if this plan will even accomplish what I am trying to do. The tops will then have a piece of 1 x 2 maple along the front edge to finish them off.
Thanks for any comments.
Steve
Replies
I would be shocked if your router could trim the stainless steel, best bet would be the strongest jigsaw you can find or perhaps a wormdrive with a good metal blade. Probably going to have to cleanup with a file after you are done.
-Ray
I'm not a metalhead,but as an apprentice I worked on an acid reclaim plant job where we had to fab all of our j-boxes out of stainless steel.We had a perfect little tool called a nibbler that cut up to 1/4" ss like it was nothing.Maybe you could rent one.
If it was a little wider, you could use something like a Fein electric shear to cut a straight line, I don't know if it would hold on to only 1/8". I don't know if you could control a nibbler to give you a flush cut without a slightly scalloped edge.
http://www.feinus.com/newnibbler/nibblermain.htm
I doubt that this is the answer to your problem, but it reminded me of a demo I saw at the latest woodworking show. Of course, guys doing demo can seem to make anything perfect and easy, but a guy demoing the Bad Dog Tools biter was making really clean cut shapes in sheet metal. He was doing a better job than I could do with my Kett nibbler, but I haven't had as much practice...
http://www.baddogtools.com/
Have the fabricator recut the pieces with a shear. Then make your countertop to the size of the stainless. Scribing can be done with an angle grinder. Carefully. You don't want to overheat the metal and warp it.
carpenter in transition
steve,
Beltsander. Don't get it too hot or you will blue the SS.
KK
"I have two pieces of 18 gauge stainless steel sheeting .... What would be the best way to trim them?"
Steve,
Just a warning. Stainless steel can work harden in an instant with conventional cutting tools. I've seen 10% cobalt and even carbide tools go from good to bad and glow orange in an instant cutting it, even with a bath of coolant. If that happens, grinding is the ONLY answer.
Given you sound like a DIY, I'd recommend some form of grinding from the start. (4.5 disc grinder? if you have one), and keep the metal cool.
Jon
A router runs way tooooo fast for SS . A set of aviation snips if you want or have a good grip. The fabricator 's shear would be a good choice . He should be able to lop off any amount that you need . It would be worth paying him double his rate to have it cut on the shear . You will end up with a nice smooth ,straight cut . Try that with a grinder or snips or even hand held electric shears ,Aint going to happen. If your counter tops are not parrallel scribe a line on the SS where you want it cut , then take it too the fab man.
Your only path to success (at least within a finite amount of time) is to have the piece recut by the fabricator, if he can shear off 1/8 inch cleanly which is doubtful. Any method of cutting that you posess will tear up the edge and then it will have to be ground smooth. A belt sander will do the job, but to sand off a full 1/8 is something that I'd not want to do. I don't understand why you didn't simply have the cut made to size in the first place.
Plasma cutter and a straight edge, simple drag cut, stainless stays cool, everyone be berry berry happy.
While the plasma could do it, I doubt anyone could make a perfectly straight cut freehand - one hickup and the edge is ruined. You would need to rig up a trolly with a machine torch to insure a straight cut, and that isn't cheap. If you need all edges to be perfect, I vote along with the previous posts to mark it to the exact shape and have it sheared at the fabricator. However, if the back edge goes under a back splash, then one of these other methods might work. Maybe you could dream up a bull nose that incorporates the 1/8" overhang...
steve-o,
Try clamping a straight edge along the line you need (1/8 in). Use a 5" disc grinder with an 80 grit flexible grinding pad and grind in long sweeps until you end up flush with the straight edge. Try to not get it too hot or it will discolor; if this happens you should be able to polish out the discoloration.