I have a question on how to properly replace my shower stall. We currently have a beautiful Brady Bunch blue tub with tile on the wall. I would like to tear that all out and put in a fiberglass tub and surround. One piece would be nice, but it is not an option because of a tight turn in the hallway. So, I’m looking at the 2 and 3 piece combinations. Unlike the 3 panel surrounds that you glue up on the wall, these tub-surround combinations have the flange around them that should be secured to the studs. My walls are plaster. So, what is the best way to remove as little plaster as necessary. What is the best way to fasten the flange to the studs. And what is the best way to patch that region where the I’ve torn out the plaster and installed the stall. Can I scab in sheetrock and blend it with mud? Or, should I just replace the tub and put up a glue-up surround to make life easier. I have also done tile surrounds before, but I don’t want tile. I’m tired of scrubbing grout. Thanks.
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Greetings Doc-
Those questions are prime candidates for the 'search' function at the bottom left of your screen when you scroll down.
Type 'tub surround' or similar wordings into that search window and a list of old threads addressing those questions will show.
"sobriety is the root cause of dementia.", rez,2004
"Geodesics have an infinite proliferation of possible branches, at the whim of subatomic indeterminism.",
Jack Williamson, The Legion of Time
doc, most of the tub/wall remodel units allow you to cart the pcs into the room, but still require assembly and bolting together b/4 you slide it / tip it into position. Therefore, you have to remove enough sheetrock or plaster at the ends and front to maneuver the unit into place. I use a plaster blade (short) in a sawzall and a steady hand to neatly cut away the drywall / plaster to places making patching easy. How you dislodge the plaster/lath/wire is up to you. Fur and / or drywall up to the flange and then mud in over the flange, setting tape after you have the void nearly filled. Finish all the taped joints, prime, caulk and paint down to the plastic. Pay special attention to filling the horizontal groove with a tub sealant as it dies into the plaster. Fill it and run the caulk out to the edge, to guide water running in that groove away from the plaster or you'll find over time, a gobbed up mess that's hard to repair. I usuall cut the plaster back an eighth away from the side walls and caulk that too so water doesn't wick into the unprotected mud.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
surgical plaster cutting ...
mark clearly ...
then ... dust proof the room and chuck and old blade into the circular saw ..
a dust mask and goggles are nice at this point ...
plunge and cut away ...
if there's room ... do a test hole to see the average depth of the plaster ... I cut the surgical hole with ... a hammer! Bust onen a hole and check things out.
tyr to make it small enough to not need a filler ...
but ... if it's like Cal said ... ya need the wiggle room ...
furring ... shims ... ply ... and different thicknesses of drywall can be used.
I like durorock or what ever powder mix of joint compound you can find ... sheetrock easysand 45 is my favorite ... seems to work best with old plaster ...
or ... use a concrete board or blue board and real plaster.
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
angle grinder instead of circ saw. those cheapy masonary disks
little steadier hand.
a tad more dust
but I like it better. gets in tighter to the corners and I seem to be able to control it better then a circ saw while dodging dust.