We are considering doing lazy susan cabs as two boxes, the large one edgejoined to the smaller at top, deck, and back, using pocket screws. Joining would be done on site.
This, for ELL-shaped susans outfitted with piehinged doors.
There are production advantages to doing them this way, and there might be some field advantages as well.
We build only frameless. An image is shown here of a 36×36 susan corner, showing the arrangement.
Comments?
Replies
The field advantage is you can get it through the door!
Forrest
I wouldn't want a seam in the floor, even if it has a lazy susan.
Would you order the smaller cabinet with no side panel, or just take off the one it comes with?
Are you building your own now or still using Scherr's?
We are buying some one way, some another.
The new way is all-unbundled; boxes from one source, hardware another, fronts from someone else, shop-made elements, depending. We are trial-ordering now from multiple sources.
This cab design is one of the things we are considering.
I can see the "two box" system working. Is this with a shelf or susans? when do the susans get fitted? Double door or one piece center hinged? Pocket screws will work but some form of alinement would be nice. Maybe an extension of the toe kick would help.
A kidney-tray two-stack susan tray will be used.
At the top, some screwed on temp scabs across the joint will help maintain alignment while screws are driven. Likewise under the bottom.
We might bore for a couple 8mm dowels near the front edges. A prototype is needed.
We use Blum hinges, and "piehinge" the pair of doors, using the 170 degree ones to hinge the one side to the door pair, and the bifold, or "pie" hinges at the center. All self-close. One clip-on Blumotion closing damper on the bottom 170, and a plunge-type closing damper stuck into a 10mm bore in the closing-side edge.
I need to tweak the model to get the top front stretcher of the big cab, wide enough to make sure the susan axle top fitting has material there, for fastening.
As one-piecers, these monsters are heavy, especially when made with mel-faced PB.
The only problem I have had with both doors hanging on one pair of hinges is the sag and twist of the door carrying the second door. I often have to add a clip or hidden latch to hold the door upright. can you set it up with two opening doors (left and right) if only on cabs with wider doors? 12" appears to be the max for door size before sag gets to be to much.
We build only frameless
The door-attached to l/s are handy, but the doors never match anything around them.
Ever.
Also, you are at the mercy of how well the gravity detent or spring stop was made/is installed for how well "closed" the doors stay in real life. More than half the ones I've seen leaned open at least a little bit.
Given my druthers, I prefer the l/s shelves with a pie cut taken out of the rounds, so that they fit behind a "normal" L-shaped corner-cabinet door. Ok, it's one more step: Open door, then reach and swivel shelf around. But, that's better than, crouch by door, spin it open, grab one thing, door spins closed (yes, you can hold the susan/door combo open, but then, you only have one hand to get things out of the cabinet at a time).
Gene,
We used to do Lazy Susan cabinets with a radius back . Just take the box, trace the curve so it will just allow the "Lazy Susan " to clear it.
Trim the back of the boxes to that line. Wrap masonite or sheet metal on the curve.
Beauty is nothing gets lost off the shelves, and the boxes fit thru doorways.
"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
Edited 10/2/2007 11:16 pm by dovetail97128