Beginner here….
Building a 12X20 outbuilding for an office. 8′ 2X4 wall construction. 2X6 roof rafters. Rise 5′ and run is 8′. 2X8 ridge board. SF Bay Area aka no snow. Normally, would put 2X6 ceiling joists in on 16″ centers….give me something for the ceiling to be nailed to as well as hold the walls in. Would like to have a “vaulted” look rather than a ceiling. Thought I read in a previous article (years ago) that “collar ties” are pretty much useless.
I was think of laying a pair of 2X6 (or 8?) on either side of a joint….and boxing it in as a beam. Say 2….about about 7′ increments?
Question. Woudl this work? What is the best way walls (top) togther? Any suggestion?
Replies
Use a ridge beam, sized appropriatly and posted on both ends, to eliminate any need for ceiling joists/rafter ties. 20' is a heck of a span though.
You could also push your rafter ties/CJ's up some (keeping them in the lower third of your span) to gain some height without getting into a monster ridge beam. Don't know if this gives you the "look" you're going for though. As long as they are in that lower third, your walls will be fine in most cases.
You picked a helluva topic. This one can get HOT around here real quick!
Good luck and happy building.
brian .. are you still commig to RhodeFest ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Hey Mike,
I sent you an email when I got your first post in another thread. Did you not get it? Hope you didn't think I was ignorin ya!
brian.. i hope you sent it to my office ... my home email is still awol..
use
[email protected]
i'll check it in the morningMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Ted,
I would use the structural ridge and post up it up. Your local LVL supplier should be able to size one up for you and not cost you an arm and leg.
kcoyner
Your idea would work. I would double the ridge and I would bolt the rafter-ceiling joist connection at the plate with 4- 1/2" bolts. I am no engineer but would do without one on my own project. For a customer I would do the calcs or have and engineer do them.
My suggestion would be to purchase scissor trusses. That would give you the vaulted ceiling, and a roof that is engineered to carry just your load without spending extra money "just in case". It's a lot less work, too. More likely to be accepted by the building inspector than something unconventional. You could get more insulation into the ceiling if that matters to you.
I did my shop with scissor trusses. 32 foot span, 9' high at walls, 12' at interior peak (offset to one side), 80 psf snow load. Worked like a charm.