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Hey all
remodeling a 1920’s summer house which was balloon framed (more like soap-bubble framed). It was definately a DIY by weekend warriors. Nothing on centers; I think they just spread out what they had until it looked good, centers range from 17″ to 26″ on 6″(!!!) floor joists. (at least they’re a FULL 2×6)
I was thinking about using microlams or something similar to bolster everything up, especially where the bathroom is (500# tub) because everything underneath has a nice bow to it.
anybody ever come up against something like what I’m facing?
I’m getting ready to start reframing the interior this wk’nd. The old bearing walls are a 2×4 on edge with a single post splitting the length, with 3/4×5″ t&g beadboard nailed to it actually carrying loads.
VERY SCARY!
have a look
members.tripod.com/~shredr
thanks
Ted
Replies
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Mr. Head-
What are the spans of these six inch joists? Is a midspan beam below the ceiling appropriate? What is the cieling height? Steel I-beams may be the answer if you must bury the evidence. Yes, I have been there before, and in my opinion the only way to work is from bottom to top. Foundations are costly to repair, but I won't work on something that isn't fairly straight. Good luck!
*Have you considered a fire?
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mark - yes, but my wife doesn't agree...
JRN'son - spans are 20', and i'm replaceing the "bearing" t&g with a 2x6 real bearing wall that i can run plumbing thru;
i've already got the W4x13 steel under the house, straightening the undersized main 4x6 (on the flat) beams. (imagine dragging 10' ibeams in a 16" crawl space and putting them in place....solo!)
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A beam of some sort in the middle of the span seems appropriate. Be sure the post support carries through to the foundation. I once labored for a foundation company here in Houston, the 16" crawlspace sounds cavernous. If you need more room, buy a couple of small shovels and hire day labor to trench it out. On a job like this I'll usually hire four guys and take two back within an hour. Seems some folks want to be paid just for showing up, others want to get the job done and move on.
*Ted - FYI - you can get 5-1/2" microlams, but you might have to hunt a little and be patient. Trusjoist MacMillan makes them, but when we needed a couple hundred linear feet, some people told us they didn't exist (incorrect), but we did have to wait while they scavenged them up from around the country (or so they said). Joist hangers are another matter, you might have to improvise depending on what you need. Also, we used them on a 10' span/16" centers, they were still a tad bouncy (very tight blocking, glued and screwed carefully, did help), so i can imagine what a 20' span 2x6 must be like. Good luck.
*Ted I renovate old houses in Chas. SC. What you are describing is pretty common in houses built before diminsional lumber. one question: Was the floor bouncy before you ripped it up? I just did ong 200 year old house that had joists about 20 inches apart (they variied greatly). and it was solid as a rock. On old houses use the adage if it works dont fix it!Rick Tuk
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Rick, the place is very springy, when i'm in the crawl spwce and someone walks on the 1st floor, i can watch the joists move like piano keys....
Nick, i thought i've seen 5-1/2 ML's when i worked out in CO; I'll have to start doing some digging around here.
Thanks guys
Ted
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Hey all
remodeling a 1920's summer house which was balloon framed (more like soap-bubble framed). It was definately a DIY by weekend warriors. Nothing on centers; I think they just spread out what they had until it looked good, centers range from 17" to 26" on 6"(!!!) floor joists. (at least they're a FULL 2x6)
I was thinking about using microlams or something similar to bolster everything up, especially where the bathroom is (500# tub) because everything underneath has a nice bow to it.
anybody ever come up against something like what I'm facing?
I'm getting ready to start reframing the interior this wk'nd. The old bearing walls are a 2x4 on edge with a single post splitting the length, with 3/4x5" t&g beadboard nailed to it actually carrying loads.
VERY SCARY!
have a look
members.tripod.com/~shredr
thanks
Ted
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Ted,
I use 5 12" ML to stiffen large gable end walls. My lumber yard stocks 11 78". We just rip them down. I'm in Breckenridge. Don't know about other parts of the state but it is about a week out for 5 12's. Costs a little more (to rip the larger stock) but in a pinch works great. Good luck. Matt