Vapor Barrier over Kraft Faced in a SHOUSE
I’ve read the other posts on here that are similar to this topic but we have a few variables.
Building a SHOUSE in Central MN. The exterior was house wrapped prior to the exterior steel being installed we then filled all the gaps in the interior walls behind the posts and in between the exterior girts with 2″ unfaced insulation. Between the posts (interior) we bookshelfed 2×6 girts every 2′ (horizontally)and then we stapled kraft faced batts between the posts which matted up tightly with the previously installed 2″ unfaced batts (unfaced surface to unfaced surface). I know they sell poly wrapped batts to put between the posts vertically but they were quite expensive. This building will have in-floor heat and the interior will be finished with steel. Question: Is it necessary to tape the kraft faced seams or hang poly over the kraft faced?
The ceiling was covered with 6 MIL poly prior to the liner being installed and the attic with be an R-50 to 60 blown fiberglass. I have concerns of getting this building getting too tight.
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Your photo is not displaying correctly.
You want a good vapor barrier on the interior side of the insulation in your location.
Ventilation can be added, but a leaky vapor barrier that allows winter condensation inside the insulation is not the way to get it.
How’s this photo?
I can see this one.
Thanks
What do you think with infloor heat an R-26 wall insulation, exterior of the building house wrapped and the Kraft Face?
I think poly over the Kraft face may make the building too tight
Shouse? You mean like this?