Replies

1. 
   AndyEngel | Sep 29, 2004 01:03pm | #1

   The key isn't in the vinyl. Vinyl siding leaks, period. It's in the flashing that you run behind the vinyl and the material you're abutting. FHB did an article with Mike Guertin on this several years ago. Also, most vinyl manufacturers, Certainteed for one, publish an installation manual that shows these details.

   Andy

   Arguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it.

   Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig

2. 
   dIrishInMe | Sep 29, 2004 02:44pm | #2

   Andy pretty much covered it by saying a properly flashed substrate is the key.  The siding will not be weatherproof, but you must prevent water that gets behind the siding from reaching the sheathing, as this will cause the sheathing to rot.  This includes a good sheathing wrap job (housewrap or felt) prior to the siding install.  Flashing tape is highly recommended around wall openings (windows/doors).  Some window/door manufacturers specify that the J-channel be caulked to the brick mold.   For vinyl siding houses, I prefer windows with integral J-channel.  Re the vertical joints between siding and brick like at the chimney, local Building Inspectors require us caulk those too.  Use the most flexible, best quality clear caulk you can find - but I try to stay away from silicone, because it always gets dirty and turns milky after several months. 

   Re horizontally joints - you said "where siding and j-channel above transitions to brick rowlock below" - this juncture needs to be flashed in some way, but not sealed since it would need to drain any water that does gets behind the vinyl siding.  If the siding is to lap over the rowlock, this would be as simple as the sheathing wrap lapping over the brick slightly. 

   If the rowlock protrudes horizontally out beyond the siding, be very careful how you treat this juncture - that is one architectural detail that I never understood - from a practical/weatherproofing standpoint.  Maybe start with some good sized 'L' flashing caulked down to the brick with the absolute best caulk you can find - maybe NP-1 (may not be available at home centers).  Then sheathing wrap laps over 'L' flashing, then siding on top of that. You may need to "break" your own flashing, or check at a roofing supply store.

   Check at BIA.org for some more info: http://www.bia.org/html/frmset_thnt.htm
     
   Some people here are probably going to bad mouth the whole vinyl siding thing, but the fact is that the issues are the same with any siding, it's just that they are most important with vinyl, since it is "designed" to leak from the start.  Other sidings start out fairly weatherproof, but once the caulk cracks, it leaks too.
    

   Matt
3. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 30, 2004 02:04am | #3

   butt the J ...

   don't caulk.

   and do what the other 2 guys said to do about flashing right under the siding.

   and like they said ...

   flash right under any siding ...

   even bricks aren't waterproof.

   Jeff

   Buck Construction, llc   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

4. 
   dIrishInMe | Sep 30, 2004 02:48pm | #4

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=48081.14

   Matt