I have a client stripping wallpaper before I apply crown, chair rail, baseboard and a new floor. I forewarned them to get a steamer to aid in the stripping. Still its taking the paper off the drywall. I stopped by and determined the wallpaper was applied directly to the the drywall without a primer of paint–no wonder. Most of the wall is now suffering from slight peelings. What’s a good prep for this before painting or do we paint it (primer) then get a plasterer? the surface is not gouged, just rough in places.
Pascanale
Replies
If the paper is torn and the gypsum cores shows, then you really need to skim coat those areas. If the paper is just roughed up ... I might still skim coat.
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The consensus is at a minimum prime with oil base Zinser/Kiltz which is what I use on any plaster, then sand where needed. If that is sufficient, go ahead and paint, otherwise, skim coat or more.
Thanks All,
Pascanale
no- the minimum is to plan to skim coat.
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There are various solutions, depending on how bad the situation is, how much of an area is involved, and how fussy the customer is.
Simplest case you need to prime/paint the surface with a non-water-based material (oil/shellac) to stiffen and lock down the loose paper fibers. Sometimes that and a little sanding and spot filling is all that's needed.
Worst case, you need to skim coat the entire wall or replace the wallboard.
Skim coat. Sorry, but there's no way around it.
A skim coat in the minimum. Bad enough and it needs a mesh coat too.
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sand when dry, use Gardz from Zinnser to prime before you mud, the results over the Guardz will be awesome.
if your just into the paper and it's fuzzy. prime with kiltz oil base let dry. then i come back with my pc orbital sander and sand the fuzzies smooth. if there are still rough spots you will need to skim them, then need to reprime with kiltz again. thats how i do it! there's 10 other answers here so pick your poision. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
I agree with your approach. Oil primer (Kilz is good, but there are others too), lightly sand, skim coat and oil primer again.
The reason for the first coat of oil primer is that once the top paper layer of drywall is compromised, the lower layers of paper will bleed through water-based primer so you need a stain blocker. Also, oil sticks better.
Water-based primer MIGHT work after skim-coating, but I had trouble one time and now I use oil for the 2nd coat when I've used oil for the 1st.
thanks for the endorsement. I'll be using exclusively oil base (Zinser) since I've had similarly marginal success with water-base on fresh plaster. I prefer to use the old plaster "Diamond Coat" because its truly harder plaster, too.
Pascanale
What others said. very light sanding , Kilz, very light sanding, top coat will reveal any "bubbles " where the paper lifts off the rock , cut those out , re-Kilz and top coat those areas again.
use the Guardz, its water base, does not raise the paper of the sheetrock, much better then the oil base
Ok, water based, which I'm surprised since drywall is susceptible to water. Whatever. I'll then skimcoat--the surface isn't gouged so, we should not need anything more.
The Guardz product is made by who? I use Sherwin Williams and Zinser primarily.
Thanks,
Pascanale
It is a Zinsser Product.http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=27.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.