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I’m an ol’timer, always used solvent based contact cement for plastic laminate work. I’m getting ready to start countertops for my new kitchen and am curious about the new (to me) water base contact cement(s). The product I’m looking at is “Wilsonart H2O” to be used with Formica brand laminate on MDF blanks with red oak edging. I don’t know anything about/have never worked with water base contact cement, but would be nice to use something that doesn’t fry any more brain cells.
I would appreciate any comments, especially durability, and any tips as to working with it.
Thanks, Woodduck
Replies
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Warren,
View Image
"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it."
Aristotle
*Works on leather too. Joe H
*Joe,
View Image "The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*I like it all right. We had to use it in the laboratory I did because of the low voc's. If we had used the solvent based cement it would have taken week's for the instrumentation to settle back down. It goes on thiner than solvent based so I double coated everything. If you like water based Poly Urethane than you'll like this. Please post PICTURES in this section! Thats what the "Gallery" section is for. OK Just call me Mr.Helpful. : )Dale
*Here in CA soon almost all solvent based contact cements will be illegal. The exception is a glue that comes in a pressurized 5 gal(I think, may be 3 gal)tank & spray gun setup. For some reason this acetone base glue is OK with EPA(for now, anyway).I now use 3M's Fastbond 30 NF out of a conventional cup gun. Works great, but takes a looooooooong time to dry. When I run out of this 3M glue that I was given, I'm gonna get the acetone based spray rig. It dries aqlmost on contact
*Just out of curiosity, but how long do you have to wait for the water based DAP to dry in order to work? And do you recommend two coats?Thanks,Will
*Will,
View Image "The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*Warren,
View Image "The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
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I'm an ol'timer, always used solvent based contact cement for plastic laminate work. I'm getting ready to start countertops for my new kitchen and am curious about the new (to me) water base contact cement(s). The product I'm looking at is "Wilsonart H2O" to be used with Formica brand laminate on MDF blanks with red oak edging. I don't know anything about/have never worked with water base contact cement, but would be nice to use something that doesn't fry any more brain cells.
I would appreciate any comments, especially durability, and any tips as to working with it.
Thanks, Woodduck