In the current home we are remodeling we put painted cabinets in the kitchen. I wanted the white oak floors in the kitchen and dining room to have a light appearance to blend well. The local floor guys all said we needed to use water-based finish to keep from getting that orange look that we sanded off (some of the floor is new #2 white oak to blend with the 40 year old original). So we used a Polycrylic clear satin found at the local box home improvement store for $30/gal. After 3 coats I got the color I wanted, but 3 months of wear later and the floors look lousy. They scratch easily and are impossible to make look good even after a good cleaning.
What do we need to do to keep the light color of the wood and still get a good durable finish? I will screen or re-sand if I have to.
Replies
Randy,
The finish is actually waterborne. You should be able to screen with a fine grit screen backed up by a maroon pad. Re-coat with a quality waterborne top coat like BonaKemi Mega. Mega produces a slightly amber finish. For a crystal clear finish use Bonakemi Traffic. Expect to pay far more than 30$ a gal. The finish you used should have lasted longer than 3 months. Water products should be applied heavy, use an unweighted "T" bar and Padco applicator and "snowplow" method of application. Use little or no pressure on the stick. A Bona dealer can set you up and explain.
Ditch
Randy,
I've only done two floor projects, both of which were finished with a water borne product. About six years later, they still look OK, but are definitely covered with thousands of tiny scratches from cat claws, etc.
I've also used water borne and solvent borne clearcoats on furniture and architectural components, like bench seats and stair rails. Without question, the solvent borne product has outperformed the water borne one. The surface is harder, more durable, and doesn't have problems with air entrainment like the water borne stuff.
I would call and get the opinion of a flooring specialist who has experience with swedish finishes.
Ragnar
Waterborne products require more exacting application procedures than OMU. The most important step in applying water is too shut off ALL air circulation during application. Shut the place down totally, windows, hvac, fans etc., don't let anybody open the doors while you are coating. Once the finish flashes (loses the wet look) then open the place up completely, windows and hvac and fan it with oscillating fans, making sure the fans blow at a slight angle towards the ceiling, not directly on the floor. Waterborne finish rules must be adhered to exactly if you want them to perform properly.
I'm not going to get into the chemistry of this stuff, but knowing when to 'gass it off' is paramount. These finishes will outperform OMU when done properly. Unless you are familiar with waterborne products, stick with trusty OMU.Ditch
Unless you are familiar with waterborne products, stick with trusty OMU.
Is that what you meant to say? Sounded like you were advocating the water borne finish....
Sorry in advance for a stupid question, but what does OMU stand for?
Ragnar
I didn't mean to offend in any way, if I did I apologize.
Yeah, I use waterborne finish almost exclusively. I buy it by the pallet load. In my opinion it's as or more durable than OMU (oil modified urethane) when applied properly. Solids contents tend to be lower than with OMU, so a 4th coat is recommended.Ditch
Thanks to all for your feedback. the only reason I went to waterborne products was to get a lighter more natural finish. I will try the hardwood suppliers for a quality product to put down. Thanks for the air tip as well.
I agree w/ luvditchburns, you MUST use a high quality waterborne finish. The ones carried in the box stores will fail. I use BasicCoatings 'Streetshoe'(about $80-90 gallon). It's a two part mixture, you must add in the catalyst or hardener immediately before applying. The ones out of the boxstore come w/ the hardener premixed and do not hold up well. Good luck. PS, BasicCoatings has a great website.
For my own education, why are you saying he MUST use water-borne? Is it due to the fact that it's already been applied once?
Ragnar
Not at all. What I'm saying is that IF you are going to use a waterborne finish you will always, in my experience, be disappointed with the boxstore brand. I've only achieved good results AND a finish that lasts with the higher quality ones. As far as keeping the floor a natural color in a kitchen situation I know of no other product to use but a high quality waterborne. Maybe someone else knows something I don't, they usally do around here.
The water borne stuff I used on my floors was two-part, and it's held up pretty well. It was probably $70 a gallon or so. So I think you're right about getting the two-component stuff if you're going to use a water borne finish.
You seem to be saying that the water borne finish will hold a lighter color better. Why is that?
Ragnar
Drop a can of soup on the floor and it chips too.
Use polyurethane and get used to the yellow. I spent 7 years fighting that battle on our kitchen floor and used the top end stuff "Pacific Strong" Yep it is good for abrasion but very brittle.
Just my two cents on safety...
In my area, there were two separate incidences in the past couple of years of guys blowing themselves up using oil-based finish. Solvent gases built up and found the water heater pilot light (or an electric motor, switch, etc.). If using oil-based, ventilate, ventilate, ventilate.
Regards,
Tim Ruttan