What is the best wood for a water table board. As long as it’s primed and painted is pine ok? I’d like to use pvc but the don’t think I can afford it.
Also, how wide should it be?
thanks
What is the best wood for a water table board. As long as it’s primed and painted is pine ok? I’d like to use pvc but the don’t think I can afford it.
Also, how wide should it be?
thanks
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Replies
The best wood for a water table is one that has been properly prepped, primed, and painted; and is subsequently maintained with repainting as needed.
Having said that...... the rot-resistant woods (which make sense in this application) are cypress, red cedar, yellow cedar.....maybe some others like white oak ($$$).
But with proper prep and paint, pine is fine.
Would a 1x6 or x8 be the way to go then z flash the top before putting on the 1st course of lap?
tks
I've always used 5/4 for a watertable, then drip cap moulding, then the z flashing. And that's basically what I see on the old houses around here. Anymore I use PVC for the watertable and drip mouldings
I think the table should be a minimum of nom. 8" wide. And wider is OK.
Have you considered using one of the composites, like MiraTech? It holds paint great, is quite rot resistant, and is cheaper than PVC.
About the drip cap molding on the water table, I am using 5/4 Miratec for a water table. I was just going to use some z bar type flashing, but I like the idea of the drip cap. I could use a router or table saw to bevel the edge of a 1x2 Miratec board and then attach that as dip cap? It seems you would want a drip cap that would direct water away from the structure, so it would be necessary to angle the direct cap to the top of the water table rather than have it at 90 degrees?
Thanks
JR
Use PVC drip cap. It is not that expensive...
where do you buy pvc drip cap
thanks
On some houses I'm building right now, what I did was have the siders rip strips of 1/2" PT plywood to 8" widths, nail that up, then cover with 8.25" hardie siding, and then add a PVC drip cap to the top. Hardie siding above. The reason I did that was that I wanted the material that was closest to the ground to be as rot-resistant as possible. Also the PT plywood was added to give the perceived thickness I wanted. Also, it is a pretty cheap way to do it. Cheaper than Miratec or maybe even wood I think. Azek would have been nice but that stuff is cost prohibitive except in places that really need it like maybe rake-trim. The rest of the houses were trimmed with Miratec. No way would I use pine unless it was at least 18" above grade, and really I try not to use any wood on the outsides of my houses unless it is PT. I would accept some good cedar or cypress but that stuff ain't cheap. With the pine we get today, when you pick up a 12' board and it weighs about 2#s you know something is up....
Regarding width, I'd say 8" is about the minimum, but it also depends on how it meets up with the front porch.
Edited 8/30/2008 7:35 pm ET by Matt
Do you make that PVC drip cap or buy it?
Thanks
Buy it. The PVC drip cap isn't that expensive - my guess would be $.75 a lin ft. Actually - I just googled this.
I buy the PVC drip from the same lumber yard I get my Azek, but more places are carrying PVC mouldings. HD and Lowe's probably carry it.
Call around to local lumber yards. If you hav a 1/2 way decent one, they'll have it.
I'd find out if I could afford the PVC, then check your other options. At some point you HAVE to figure your time and what that's worth. Are you into this home for the long haul?
I'm leaning towards making a drip cap out of cedar if I can figure out how to do it. Any tips?? I've got a quite a bit of 5/4 laying around and the water table is 8"
thanks,