Replies

1. 
   joeh | Apr 03, 2007 05:16pm | #1

   There is a recent thread in the Photo Gallery section of how to do a Kerdi shower, there is another discussion somehwere about a new Laticrete product,

   Never heard of Aquabar B, but sounds like maybe you need some research before you start one of the absolutest worst things to screw up & fix.

   Well, maybe a bad foundation is worse, but shower has to be second.

   Joe H

2. 
   paulwaterloo1 | Apr 03, 2007 05:21pm | #2

   Agreed with the post above.....you need to do A LOT of research on a shower first. I just completed one with the Kerdi system, a guy posted to the photo forum.

   I spent about 20 hours just researching waterproofing before I started mine. The Schluter Kerdi system is what I used.

3. 
   Mongo | Apr 03, 2007 06:52pm | #3

   Aquabar B is designed mainly for use under hardwood floors.

   It can be used in walls behind tile, but it's not a waterproof membrane, so treat it more like regular #15 felt than visqueen.

   Don't use it if the shower will be subjected to heavy use, or if it'll be a steam shower. It's not a vapor barrier, so if you have an exterior wall, you'll still need a vapor barrier there.

   This is a "lathed and mortared" shower, so I presume you're using this behind the lathe? I think that'd be fine. Think of it as the drainage plane between the shower and the framing of the house, just like felt would be used.

   If you need a vapor barrier then use something else.

   Mongo

4. 
   jrnbj | Apr 03, 2007 07:43pm | #4

   Lathed & Mortared? they don't sell Durock where you live?
   (And I'm assuming you mean metal lath...if it's wood then I am really scratching my head ;-)

1. 
   Mongo | Apr 03, 2007 08:55pm | #5

   I took his mention of "lathe" to mean expanded diamond lathe. Covered with fully floated mud walls. One of many benefits to fully floated mud walls is that the corners can be grouted instead of caulked.I salute him for that, floated walls are well above my level of expertise.

1. 
   jrnbj | Apr 03, 2007 09:18pm | #6

   Well beyond mine, too-last time I tried to get that much mud to sick on a wall it laughed & jumped off...
   Hadn't thought about the corners-I do recall that you can tweek the mud to fix out of square/plumb framing.
   I'd still be Durocking or Schlutering, though.

1. 
   JonE | Apr 03, 2007 09:58pm | #7

   I did Durock on my walls, conventional PVC membrane pan and mud bed, and then Laticrete 9235 waterproofing over the mud bed and durock.  I leak tested the PVC first.  It's two separate levels of watertightness, but if water ever gets past the Laticrete membrane, it will hit the PVC and still go down the drain.

   I like the Kerdi idea but was a little too hesitant to try it. 

2. 
   elua | Apr 04, 2007 07:02am | #9

   The reason for the floated walls is that the existing wall are a bit out of plumb. And Durock won't give me the plumb walls for the tile. Iused to labor for a guy that used aquabar over the green board before he lathed and floated. Tis was also used alot on countertops over ply before lathe and mud. Now I'm secondguessing this technique at least in the shower. Sounds like kerdi is the way to go.

1. 
   Mongo | Apr 04, 2007 05:44pm | #10

   You could sister new plumb studs to the existing out of whack ones to get plumb walls and square corners, then cement board over that. That may be worth the effort regardless of which way you go (Kerdi or not) to make tile layout easier in terms of fewer cuts to make up for wavey walls, etc.

   Kerdi is a great material, I have a photo thread over in the photo folder:

   Kerdi Pics

   If you do Kerdi, remember that the Kerdi will be your vapor barrier, so for the shower you won't need anything (felt/visqueen) behind your cement backer board.

   Mongo

1. 
   elua | Apr 13, 2007 05:43am | #11

   I saw your pictures. It looks amazing. Ive never fit durrock that clean. The kerdi sounds and looks very simple, is it really?

2. 
   Mongo | Apr 13, 2007 04:13pm | #12

   Thanks for the kind words.Essentially, Kerdi is simple. It's like hanging wallpaper. You do need to be conscientious in your methods with the detailing, though, and your methods need to take into account the size of tile that will go over it.Plan out your seams/overlaps beforehand as well to make sure they don't end up in akward or inappropriate places.The Kerdi drain is simple to install, but when setting it on a drypack preslope without access underneath, you have one shot to get the installation right as you have to simultaneously glue the drain to the DWV while you mud it into the drypack preslope. Again, not terribly difficult, but attention to detail and anticipation of the steps involved make something that could be difficult a bit less so.With access to the plumbing below, setting the drain in a Kerdi tray or just mudding it in drypack, then coming back later and glueing up the plumbing from underneath is, in my opinion, MUCH easier.It's a very nice product when used correctly. When done correctly, it gives a worry-free shower.Minor point, but the backer board on the walls in the Kerdi thread was Wonderboard, the niches was Hardibacker. No Durock used.I do think Durock is easier to detail than Wonderboard, but I already had the Wonderboard on hand.Thanks again, Mongo

5. 
   bezgrp | Apr 04, 2007 04:37am | #8

   ALWAYS USE A VAPOUR BARRIER BETWEEN THE STUDS AND THE TILE SUBSTRATE THAT IS CODE IN MOST OF THE COUNTRY NOW . USE HARDIEBACKER IF YOU CAN GET IT .

   
   

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   Edited 4/3/2007 9:39 pm ET by bezgrp