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From: mcdoak  Jan-17 10:29 pmÂ
I’ve got an 1896 Victorian that I’ve lifted, gutted and am in the process of totally renovating…one problem: the original shiplap redwood siding was installed directly to the framing members without paper or a vapor barrier. Additionally, the original balloon framing allowed moisture that did get past the siding to run down inside the wall and out at the brick foundation. I’m now of course fireblocking this path and want to insulate and sheetrock. Any ideas on how to stop AND manage potential moisture without tearing off the beautiful existing redwood shiplap siding, sheathing, Tyveking and applying new siding??
I’m looking for tips on stopping the moisture: paint, caulk, etc., as well as tips on how to handle moisture assuming some will get inside the walls. Thanks in advance.
Mike McD
Oakland, California
Replies
Greetings mcdoak,
This post to your question will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someones eye that can help you with advice.
Cheers
mcdoak,
Provided the moisture infiltration issue is adressed I might check out the option of insulating with a spray foam in the wall cavities. I admit I have little experience with the actual products but from what I have read it may be a viable opton. It should insulate and act as a moisture barrier. It will also expand into cracks and serve well as an air infiltration barrier.
I recently purchased a 1790's farmhouse for remodel and am considering the option i present here.
The initial cost of the product will be more i think but ofset that with the cost, predominantly labor, of doing it any other way.
good luck
i'll be interested to hear what you find out. Anyone else have any thoughts?
This question got posted twice. The other thread got a bit more discussion:http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=52809.1&search=y
Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
It looks like I'm moving in the direction of blown in PU into each cavity...I'm meeting with the insulation contractor on Monday and will advise on discussions and decision....one bit of advice I've been getting from several people is that I should still try to maintain an air space between the blown in foam and the back of the siding boards...theory here is that if any moisture does infiltrate the siding (or from above) then the air space would allow the moisture to move freely to an exit vs. push out on the boards and paint or sit and rot the framing or the siding from within...does anyone have any thoughts on this AND/OR suggestions on the best method to create an air space if recommended??Mike
Mike
I'm thinking about your situation some more. An air space does seem like a good idea to me. After all these old buildings have outlasted many newer tighter structures. The best way I have thought of would be to one of the preformed rigid foam roof venting products available. You might have to cut and overlap them to provide venting to the whole cavity but they can be stapled on to the studs and inside of the sheathing. There are other ways to do this but I think this would be the best compromise between labor materials and the desired result.
Just be sure that you can get the desired R-value with the reduced depth of the cavity
You could also try attaching a Cedar-Breather type product to the inside of the sheathing and fastening poly over thae to prevent the foam from penetrating. I think this will be more time consuming and perhaps more costly . The upside is that you will only steal about 1/2 inch of the cavity.
Hope this helps you out
Thanks Chuck...not too worried about the Rvalue here in mostly sunny Oakland where most of the old houses have zero insulation...I'll keep you guys posted...Mike
I would bet that the moisture that was running out at the foundation was coming from the inside, not the outside.