Some tiles on the shower floor need replacing. I was all set to buy a ceramic drill bit for removing the cracked tile, until my husband cautioned, “be sure you don’t put a hole into the shower pan.”
What layers are under the floor tiles? I have no idea how far down the shower pan is, and whether the builders left out a layer or two (they took a lot of shortcuts). Would you use a drill to help get the tiles out?
Janet
Replies
If in doubt and your sure the shower doesn't leak then unscrew your drain which will raise it up to accomidaate the new tile thickness and retile over the top of the whole floor. There are good cleaners to prep the floor and good adhesives then regrout and seal.
In a really well made shower, the tile is on a bed of thinset that is actually rather thin (1/8", maybe as much as 1/4", rarely any more).
That thinset is on "the pan" -- actually a rubber or hot-tar-mopped layer that has been carefully laid in (floor, corners, and up the wall about a foot) so that water is always directed to the drain.
So, in my opinion, a drill is a really bad idea. Actually, anything that significantly disturbs the tile is likely to also disturb the thinset, which could knick or cut the membrane. Which would allow water to go through to whatever is below the pan (perhaps your kitchen ceiling?)
Never heard of a mud job less than an inch, plus or minus. I do many a year.
OP should be able to carefull remove tile as suggested or better yet tile over as Jagwah suggested.[email protected]
Have you actually ever built a shower before?
dug
I found this image for you to see what you are up against. As the pic shows, you won't have to worry about drilling (a tile drill is quite slow anyway). I would also suggest you get a grout saw to remove the grout from around the tile. Also needed is a 1x block to pry against, if you pry against good tile you will crack it. If you really want a good tool then check out the Fein Multimaster with carbide blades made just for tile removal.
good luck
But most modern systems the waterproofing layer is on the slope and with some system the tile is set directly on it..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I guess I'm not "modern" then. All the shower pans I have ever seen have been rubber or hot mop below the mud base. It doesn't even make sense to put the waterproofing layer on top, too easy to damage during tile installation. Not to mention, all the shower drains are made to accept rubber below the mud base.Where in the world have you seen it different?
It is called preslope.And the IRC requires it.In the IRC 2000 P2709.3 requires tht the lining material be pitched 4/12 to weep holes in a sub-drain.http://3gshowerpans.com/thehotmopprocess.htmlhttp://www.thetiledoctor.com/howto/showers.cfmhttp://www.dixsystems.com/product_detail.htmlhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGpFuFur4scAnd there is photo essay in the Photo Gallery using Kerdi, although I don't remember if he covered the base much..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Schluter (and others) makes a system that uses a membrane OVER the base. Rationale is that traditional methods (mud base) allows water to sit in the mud, encouraging mold. With Schluter's Kerdi, you can even just use drywall for the walls.I think most Pros now use this method to build a shower.http://www.schluter.com/media/brochures/ShowerHandbook2008.pdfBill
"Fein Multimaster with carbide blades made just for tile removal."
They make a segmental diamond $aw blade too.
Jeff
"They make a segmental diamond $aw blade too"If you want to pay that kind of money, you might as well just hire a professional!gk
Back to the original question. Underneath the tile is about an inch of cement mortar over the membrane. So just get a broken hacksaw blade, scrap away the grout. Get a hammer and chisel and lightly tap the broken tile to chip it away.
Janet,
Why are the tiles in need of replacement? If they are cracked, then you must ask why. So many things could be wrong. There may be a membrane just below the tile as in the case of a Kerdi shower. Or the membrane may be an inch or more below. Does the shower leak? So many questions....
You might want to visit http://www.johnbridge.com and see the forum there. They are a bunch of professional and diy tile guys. They are very helpful but will want all the details and a photo if possible.
Whoops...probably looks like I'm ignoring the information you've all posted, but I didn't see the newest responses to my question (the danger of using more than one computer). Dreamcatcher, thanks for the very useful illustration.I ended up borrowing a Dremel-type rotary tool to cut around and through the broken tiles. I have GOT to get one of these tools! A few light taps with a chisel and the tiles lifted right out.The shower has never shown any signs of leaking, but then it is hardly ever used. Most of the time it is not a shower but the cats' bathroom (with the drain taped over so the clay litter won't fall in and clog the plumbing). There are minute cracks all over the house, which I attribute to living in California.