I replaced some convenience outlets for a customer and found that one of them had been incorrectly installed such that the white common lead was bent downward against the grounding lug which had then sliced the insulation away as the mounting screws were tightened.
Can any of you sparkies tell me what happens when common becomes connected thus to ground? Would someone risk getting “tickled” if they touched the cover plate screw while a device plugged into the outlet was in service? Would the screw become mildly “hot” when devices conneted to other outlets on the circuit were operating? This outlet happened to be last in line of 4 in the circuit.
Thanks,
BruceT
P.S.
The old outlets were so loose that plugs would simply fall out. The refrigerator plug showed evidence of arcing When I tried to plug it back in after replacing the worn outlet, it would not go in. I found a blob of brass on the tip of the hot-side blade from where arcing had melted the tip.
Replies
Go and get an electrican that is the simplest way to solve your concerns
You can make it fool proof but not idiot proof
Edited 6/3/2006 5:24 am ET by Bolts
That scenario is relatively benign. It would be better, of course, if there were no contact, but there aren't too many ways that this could be a hazard. Should not cause a "tickle" unless there are multiple other wiring errors somewhere.
Biggest problem is that it could cause false trips on a GFCI upstream.
(Regardless of the degree of hazard, it should be fixed, of course.)
The burned-out outlet is not unusual on a high-current appliance. Hopefully you installed a new commercial qualtiy outlet, vs the cheapie 39-cent unit.
"The burned-out outlet is not unusual on a high-current appliance. Hopefully you installed a new commercial qualtiy outlet, vs the cheapie 39-cent unit.'Spec grade, not commercial.Commercial is way to expensive and spec grade is plenty good.
I was all excited about finding 39 cent outlets.....
"I was all excited about finding 39 cent outlets....."
You can find 39 cent outlets all over the place.
Of course they charge you 88 cents for them. LOL
Bill,
Thanks for the info. I wish more people knew the difference between the grades.
A couple of years ago, I sent my wife in to the local electric supply house to pick up some spec grade outlets when my electrician came up a couple short. I told her that the outlets should be two or three bucks each. She thought she would save a few miles and stopped at Home Despot. She was so proud of herself for getting 10 "spec grade" outlets for $3.79 - just in case we miscounted or something. It wasn't even worth my time to take them back.
Steve
For another thread, the other day I looked up prices from the local Lowes store.Residential grade. 15 amp #270$.46 bulk, $.56 each in a box, $.37 in box of 10Spec grades15 amp, side wire #CR15, $1.69
15 amp, back wire #Br15, $1.99 $1.69 in box of 1020 amp, side wire #CR20, $2.49
20 amp, back wire #BR20, $3.09
20 amp, side wire #CR20, $2.49
That is a real bargain now. I recall paying $2.69 wholesale for 20A spec grade outlets in 1972 from Graybar for my own house!
Always wondered why NEC still allows that crap, esp when they 'legislate' GFCI and arc fault technology, primarily to enrich the manufacturers.
Wonder if the profit margin on 37 cent outlets from china is greater than on spec grade, would not doubt a backstab cheapie costs less than 1 cent to manufacture.
Thanks, DanI did indeed fix the problem and then replaced the other kitchen outlet upstream with a GFCI. Might have been interesting if I had done that GFCI first. :) I used Leviton Pro for the grounded receptacles. I like the back-wired ports tightened with screws - much faster than screw terminals but still as secure, and plenty of metal-to-wire contact.I found Leviton non-grounded outlets for the original non-grounded living room and bedroom circuits (in bakelite boxes) - didn't want someone to plug in a three-prong device, relying on apparent grounding that was not really there. BruceT