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The last time I had to do a job like that, I found a jigsaw blade on which the teeth were nearly an inch ahead of the shank. On my jigsaw, it cut 3/4 base easily. It’s no Fein, but it only cost about three bucks and you can laugh at a nail or two. That blade is probably still in my toolbox somewhere. You want it?
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I remember last year someone mentioning using a Fein tool for cutting baseboard without removing it from the wall. I'd like to leave the base on the wall, but haven't had a lot of luck getting professional results in the past. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks - Jim
*Jim, you should be working, not playing around at Breaktime.Dennis
*Jim,Have no Fein, but have had luck cutting pine/poplar 5/8 x 3 1/2 base in place with a 12" backsaw. Stuff a pc. of plam behind it and no damage to the wall if you scuff it. Me, I took a personal day. Not too hard from yourself. Now if I could figure a way to have it paid....
*Thanks Cal, I'm gonna give that a try.This is the first couple days in 2 months I've worked at the shop, and it's great. Just what the doctor ordered. Just came back from shooting a wall raising...met a good bunch of gunslingers...made me kind of nostalgic. Kind of.How you doin' Dennis? You still drivin' that Oldsmobile lumber hauler?
*I have an offset dovetail saw I use for stuff like that (the handle sticks out at an angle, and you can get ones where the handle pivots so you get a left hand and a right hand saw in one deal). I ground off the set on the teeth on one side so it cuts flush (the handle on mine doesn't pivot). You can just rest it up against an offcut for a guide. Slow down near the floor, but real cheap compared to a Fein.
*Jim,
View Image © 1999-2000"More than any time in history mankind faces a crossroads. One path leads to despair and utter hopelessness, the other to total extinction. Let us pray that we have the wisdom to choose correctly." Woody Allen
*So Adrian, if I ground the set off the teeth on one side, I guess I'd need two saws, a left and a right so I can get each side of the doorway? I'm thinkin' one of those Japanese pull saws with teeth on both sides might fit the bill here.
*Yeah, that does work pretty good Joe. I have quite a few to do though (I think something like seven doorways, both sides) so I am lookin' for something a little more efficient. What's the deal on that Fein tool? Is it really a detail sander with an attachment, or what? Does it orbit, or spin like a Dremel tool, or what the heck DOES it do?
*The Fein tool is really a detail sander, but it comes with a wee triangular shaped blade. Fit the blade and the small vibrations are enough to cut through something about 25mm (1") thick. Takes a bit of time, but pretty efficient really, and should do what you are looking to do without problems. You'll need deep pockets if you decide to get one. Fein aren't at the cheap end of the scale! Sliante.
*jim..skip the fein if that's the reason yur buyin it..try a linoleum knife... you can get a linolem blade that will fit your utility knife.... or stick to the utility blades...it's gud enuf fer fusco, its gud enuf fer methe p-lam backer is a nice twist calvin..b but hey, whadda i no ?
*Okay, I sprung for the Fein and I love it. Use it almost exclusively for cuts like you've described, Jim. The best blade for making a cut like you describe is the one that's heavier, and is shaped like a circle with one side chopped off. The blade alone costs about $40.The curious thing about the Fein is that it will cut slowly but smoothly through wood that is firmly attached so it cannot vibrate with the tool. If you try to cut something held by hand, it will take some time, since the material itself will want to vibrate.I'm told, the Fein is what doctors use to cut away casts from a patient's body... the rigid cast is cut, but when the saw blade encounters the skin, the skin just vibrates with it. I did a test on myself, and it's amazing... it would take a lot of pressure to cut yourself.Fein Fan... Steve
*Jim, You'll have to decide if this idea will work in your situation. It will work with drywall but you'll have to be more careful if you're against a stud and I've not yet tried it with a plaster wall.Score your baseboard with a sharp utility knife, pull the baseboard away from the wall about a half inch and firmly shim it with a small block, load a short, fine toothed blade upside down in your sawzall and starting your cut at an angle so the point of the blade hits the wall behind and lower than the top of the baseboard start your engine and cut that sucker off. I used to have a real short stroke sawzall that wouldn't bounce off the bottom plate now I just hold the saw so it cuts a little of the plate too and doesn't bounce. With a little practice and a very slight back cut you can be right up against the scored line and the baseboard will be a perfect fit against the new casing or plinth. And you know, if it's paint grade, then a little caulk will hide any goofs. Just watch out for the bounce or the baseboard will be dinged and the cut ragged.
*Hey Cal, Thanks for the tip about using the p-lam
*Tex,Someone here said to screw a couple of blocks to the base to use as a guide for the sawzall. I usually just free hand it with the sawzall (I use a metal blade to keep the cut sharp), but the guide sounded like a good idea. Haven't done it yet, I usually just take the base off back to the corner. But I might try the guide blocks next time I have to.Good luck,Ed.
*I've used the roto-zip saw to cut the base short of the openings in a couple of places in my house.they turned out pretty good even with my limited skills.jim
*Good suggestions all. I am not due to start this until Thursday, so keep the ideas comin'. Love this forum.
*So Jim, you gonna try em all and come back with your personal preference. Might be chance to clean up again with a check from some famous mag. Give it a shot. Best of luck.
*I don't think this will help in this case, but it made me think of this...if you have a Bosch barrel grip jigsaw you can take the baseplate off, turn it around, re-attach it, and it will let you get real close to an obstacle (floor, wall, etc.). Then you can finish up with a handsaw or a recip saw.
*Jim,
View Image © 1999-2000"More than any time in history mankind faces a crossroads. One path leads to despair and utter hopelessness, the other to total extinction. Let us pray that we have the wisdom to choose correctly." Woody Allen
*And there are flush-cut blades that fit most jigsaws that stick out to the front of the foot.
*I just use the jig saw with a short/sturdy metal blade for most of the cut. Then switch over to a longer blade to finish the bottom (holding the saw usually upside down and at the base plate sorta resting on the floor at an angle.)Just let the blade work down to the floor. The three most important steps are to sit cross legged on the floor and stare at the base for about 15 min., then count your fingers before ya start, then count your fingers when you're done! Jeff.....the finger count should match.
*Fein........it's not a "kind" of tool, it's brand name like DeWalt or Porter Cable. Made if Germany, they have a full line of woodworking tools that are the best.....kind of like Lomello is to plate jointers.The only problem is that you have to have them serviced by an certified service place or you void their generous warrenty. It's like buying a truck, they give you a service plan you have to stick to or the warrenty is void.We can buy them here in Dallas through several retailers that deal in woodworking tools.....but who wants to send a drill or saw off to the service center for the required "check up"?Ed. Williams
*Likely story. .. more like you couldn't stand not to see your name in the BT part of the next issue of the mag.I know AdJack uses the coping blade in his Stihl 028... me, I just tear along the dotted line.-pm
*The last time I had to do a job like that, I found a jigsaw blade on which the teeth were nearly an inch ahead of the shank. On my jigsaw, it cut 3/4 base easily. It's no Fein, but it only cost about three bucks and you can laugh at a nail or two. That blade is probably still in my toolbox somewhere. You want it?
*Calvin - you are the man. I tried the back saw and plam today, and it worked great. Thanks.
*You're very welcome.
*I thought the Fein tools were made in Canonsburg, PA, right where I came from.MD