Replies

1. 
   johnny_onthespot | Dec 08, 2001 08:34am | #1

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   Be careful. I did a salvage job on wide plank oak flooring that was installed over a radiant heat slab.
   The first time the heat kicked on the moisture from the concrete went right up into the flooring and cupped it severely, even with relief cuts in the back and staples in the face. I suggest vapor barrier, then 3/4 pressure treated sleepers,3/4 subfloor and then the planks

1. 
   Rich_Watkins | Dec 08, 2001 03:11pm | #2

   *Because of the high water table in parts of my area, even some big dollar homes are built on slabs. I always install sleepers and sub floor over pads, just as johnny suggested. The planks will have to be tongue and grooved. They will also have to be screwed and plugged. Check the moisture content after the planks have been sliced and planed. If the moisture is above 13 percent I would take them to a local kiln and have them dried on a schedule so as to relieve pressure gradually. Your kiln owner will have the best advise on final moisture content. Tread carefully, this is tricky territory with the final result being either success or sorrow.

2. 
   pw_clark | Dec 08, 2001 03:11pm | #3

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   I have recently built a house for a client on a concrete slab. The owner has milled old fir grain elevator beams into 12 and 13 inch wide boards for flooring. These will be dressed to 3/4 inch. I was wondering if it would be possible to glue the flooring to the concrete using construction adhesive to save strapping the floor? Also wondering what moisture % would be recommended? Any suggestions out there?