Replies

1. 
   gordsco | Oct 29, 2002 09:25pm | #1

   what kind of windows? wood? vinyl? what kind of siding? I'm sure by saying alot of exposure would mean days of horizontal rain backed by gale force winds? I did alot of work on one older house in particular. On a hill overlooking the Atlantic, the wind would actualy blow the rain in under the windows and under the siding, leaks would travel 6' before they found a way in, it was crazy. I ended up replacing the 6/12 roof with low pitch shingles and would have liked to have ripped off the pine siding to seal up the wooden windows properly. If this is the type of exposure you are talking about, there are alot of issues to address other than window wrap to keep the water out.

   If you are just installing the windows and using vinyl, go with the 6" sticky wrap over tyvec or paper, take your time and don't kink it.

   sometimes board sometimes knot

1. 
   blackcloud | Oct 29, 2002 10:21pm | #2

   Gordsco,

   The windows are Anderson 400 series Doublehung, casement, and awning.  They are woodclad with vinyl outers.  I am using Hardie plank siding with a 5" reveal.  The wind is less of a factor than the 150 days a year it rains, normal winds are in the 20 mph range with the gusts getting in the 50 mph range in a couple of blue moons.

   Jason

1. 
   gordsco | Oct 30, 2002 01:56am | #3

   The weather sounds great! I should move there.

   There are commercialy available sealing strips to go around vinyl windows after installation. They are sold by the roll in various lenghts. I've always cut my own out of a roll of eavesguard, an ice shield used under the first rows of roof shingles. If these are the 4" or 6" strips you're talking about, it sounds as though you'd be okay with either. Your choice.

   sometimes board sometimes knot

2. 
   FrankB89 | Oct 30, 2002 03:10am | #4

   I'm also in your climate and when I install Andersons, I always get them to send some extra nailing fin (the fin comes in 12' lengths and can be rolled up and hauled in a car), because sometimes the windows come with only partial nailing fins, just enough to secure the window in the frame.  To install them that way, you'll have gaps in the corners between the window frame and the rough opening, a potential weakspot in your weatherization scheme.

   When you set up your windows to install, make sure the fin is long enough for the sides to overlap the bottom and the top to overlap the sides  (Actually, I think their instructions tell you to do this).  You'll have to trim the fin carefully on the ends so the corners (top, sides and bottom) leave as little gap as possible in each corner.  Then go ahead and caulk and flash as necessary.

   Where your Hardie goes over the tops of the window, you'll also want to shim the gap under the plank since the plank, at that point, doesn't have a plank below it to lay against and is a good potential access point for wind-driven rain if not addressed, not to mention a potential appearance problem.  (The exception is if your plank layout is such that the top of the lower course of planking lays just over the top of the window).

   The peel and stick flashing, like Moistop maybe? someone mentioned is pretty good, but in a wet windy weather climate having a metal flashing made to sit over the top of the window frame and turn up the wall for 6" or so is fairly inexpensive  insurance. 

1. 
   PhilEves | Oct 30, 2002 03:48am | #5

   When it comes to waterproofing...remember the motto...

   "bigger is better,more is best, too much is just right"If it is to be, 'twil be done by me..

1. 
   blackcloud | Nov 01, 2002 06:03pm | #6

   Thanks for all the input.  I will use the 6" and will make sure to close all the gaps.

   Jason