Wonderboard newbie, need reassurance of this product.
I have used hardiboard in my previous projects (tiling kitchen and bathroom) and was very happy with the results however it is not the easiest material to cut. The score, score, score and then snap technique is not as easy as it sounds. I burned through razor blades like water and it’s time to admit I am getting old and my wrists are on fire.
In an effort to make my life easier I purchased 1/4″ Wonderboard for the underlayment. Sure it cracks fairly easy but I was especially careful in transportation and handling.
I put the Wonderboard in the middle of the room and because of this I walked on it a couple of times and childhood memories of biting into a rice crispy treat filled my head! This was very frustrating and scary in that I can see the floor making this same noise! Of course I will have thinset flooring adhesive below it, screwed down and thinset / tile over it.
So I placed 1″ of hardiboard over top of the Wonderboard as a test and again walked over it and I could still get it to make a bit of a crackling sound. Yes I understand this product has been used for years but how / why would it not make the same sound once tile is installed over it? Thanks for the comments.
Replies
I'm partial to DensShield myself. It's almost as easy to work with as drywall. The first time I used it was in an application where I had to bevel the edges, which couldn't be done with any other material. I've seen samples of DensShield submerged for extended periods of time without any degradation.
Although I've used it for almost every type of application (it isn't approved for exterior use) I don't feel that any kind of backer board is very good for tub/shower surrounds or for counter top decks. These are best done with a full float so that they are aboslutely flat.
Over wood framed floors any tile installation depends on beefed up framing. Backer board will do little to stiffen a floor. If a floor is framed stiff enough a membrane application should suffice.
P.S. I hate Wonderboard. It's hard to cut, it crumbles and it is of little value in waterproofing.
seconded.
Anyone else have and experience with windorboard?
It might not be the wonderboard.
It could be the wood deflection. You have to look at your framing. Deflection can't be more than L/360 in most cases I believe. The marble institute says L/720.
I'm not an expert in this area though.
TLDR - Make sure your framing is beefy or it will flex and crack.
Put a piece down with thinset and screws - you won't hear anything.
Don't use razor blades
The make special scoring knives with carbide tips for scoring this stuff
The tile form I went to had a recommendation to stiffen a floor by gluing and screwing a 2x4 laying flat on the bottom of the floor joists. what you are essentially doing is changing a joist into a version of an I joist. If you have a crawlspace or unfinished basement cieling, it works great. My kitchen tile job has seen 30-40 people tromping on it at the same time with nary a problem. It has worked so well that my bouncy living room will be getting the treatment soon
Solid stuff
I've used wonder board for my bathrooms and kitchen. It has held up quite well. When I installed it, I put 1/4 in thin-set mortar underneath, screwed the wonder board in every spot. Then 1/4 inch thin set under the tile. Wonder board is a lot easier to work with. Tip. When you're ready to grout, use a latex additive instead of water. That way if your tile shifts, your grout will flex and not crack. Hope this helps.
A solid floor is always a MUST before you lay tiles. Try the water test first. A large glass of water on the floor. Hop on the floor. If the water just jiggles the floor is solid. If the water in the glass sloshes or even spills the floor needs re-inforcing.
After that I use Ditra as a uncoupler and tile on top
Never had a problem
I hate Wonderboard. It is not waterproof, tiles are not waterproof. If water penetrates into the subfloor it spells trouble.
Ditra is waterproof
Check with the TileForum
it'll be fine...
It'll be fine once you install it correctly, which is bedded in thinset, then fastened to the subfloor.
If you just screwed it down with no thinset, then you'd get the results you're getting now.
And of course, make sure you'll have the recommended subfloor and underlayment thicknesses to tile upon. If your subfloor is inadequate, the wonderboard over it will be inadequate.