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Discussion Forum

wood choice

therealpeter | Posted in Construction Techniques on September 15, 2009 03:30am

What would you consider to be the ideal wood(s) for window frames and sills?

Reply

Replies

  1. FastEddie | Sep 15, 2009 05:43am | #1

    Are you in the Arizona desert or the Oregon coast?

    "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

    "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

    1. therealpeter | Sep 15, 2009 04:04pm | #5

      Thanks for responding.I'm in the Finger Lakes area of New York. It will be painted.The area of the house is about 150 years old. Historic replication is not required, But I'm going to replicate the windo to preserve the look of the house.I believe the jambs of the frame I removed are white pine, the sill may be the same. I may run a nail free chunk through the planer later in the day to get a better look at the wood.

      1. Danno | Sep 15, 2009 04:45pm | #7

        Poplar takes paint well.

        1. frenchy | Sep 15, 2009 05:14pm | #8

          decays easily though

          1. therealpeter | Sep 15, 2009 07:52pm | #9

            I'm thinking poplar or soft maple for the interior trim, the only part with any shaping. Everything else is flat, a couple dados, applied stops.
            Rot resistance is the key. They might have white oak at the local mill, I'm headed there anyway.

          2. frenchy | Sep 15, 2009 09:25pm | #10

            That's a good choice.. Are your new windows going to be double glazed?  If so then yes maple is a good choice for the interior.. However if not, you will have the same rot issues from frost buildup.

          3. therealpeter | Sep 15, 2009 10:25pm | #11

            no double glazing, wood frame storm windows.

          4. Piffin | Sep 16, 2009 12:18am | #13

            I might use white oak or mahogany for sills and use white pine for the rest of this myself, since it is all protected pretty well, but seal end grains before assembly. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          5. frenchy | Sep 16, 2009 02:01am | #14

            should work real well for you..

          6. therealpeter | Sep 16, 2009 02:41am | #15

            Thanks everybody.
            I'm going white oak sill, white pine jambs, poplar or soft maple interior trim all of which grow on my property. I will not be using my own wood but it will be from the neighborhood.I'm just finishing a cherry door frame for a door in our home. I've taken that wood from tree to finished product. It makes you look at the wood and the trees with different eyes.

  2. RedfordHenry | Sep 15, 2009 05:51am | #2

    Not knowing if you are looking for paint or stain grade, so I'll just suggest cypress, mahogany, cedar, and maybe douglas fir (in no particular order) for their durability and workability.  None are inexpensive though.

  3. Piffin | Sep 15, 2009 03:08pm | #3

    what climate?

     

     

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    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
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  4. wane | Sep 15, 2009 03:12pm | #4

    not cedar or pine, too soft, always seen them banged up by overzealous vacuuming ..

  5. frenchy | Sep 15, 2009 04:42pm | #6

    White Oak.. or black walnut..

      Black walnut is ideal because it machines so well and sooooooo smooth. (it's also decay resistant)

      White oak is also decay resistant and normally much cheaper.. you will need sharp cutters on your shaper though. 

     You can paint either one nicely but I would use stainless steel fastners because the tannic acid in any decay resistant wood will attack steel.  You could also use silicone bronze or copper..

     

  6. Michael_Maines | Sep 16, 2009 12:17am | #12

    Honduran Mahogany, Spanish cedar, VG Fir, VG Red Cedar, eastern white pine, Longleaf yellow pine....

     

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