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I have heard that wood does not make a viable countertop for kitchen use. Too porous, holds germs and bacteria, scratches too easily,too hard to finish, etc.
Any help or experiences out there???
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I have heard that wood does not make a viable countertop for kitchen use. Too porous, holds germs and bacteria, scratches too easily,too hard to finish, etc.
Any help or experiences out there???
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Replies
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Everything you list can be a concern with wood countertops. To me, water is the most important consideration.
There are a few types of wood that can make a suitable ctop, with maple being the most common. Once again, consider its application or end-use (simple countertop or cutting surface) and orient the grain appropriately. Edge-grain looks horrible and splinters if used to cut upon, yet absorbs less moisture than end-grain.
Yes, wood can be dented. Yes, wood can be burned from a hot pot. Studies flip-flop on wood vs. bacteria, for every "yea" there's a "nay."
Wood does require a bit of care, and a bit of maintenance. But it does look great. I think maple is your best bet. It's tight grain can minimize scratches and dents, it's edge-grain is fair at repelling water, and an end-grain block is great for food prep. I use wood for most veggie prep but still relegate meat, poultry and fish to a plastic cutting board.
There are compromises to any countertop surface. Maple requires a bit more maintenance, but IMO, it certainly is worth it.
You may want to get other opinions from over at the Fine Cooking Forum. I'm sure there are a few archived threads buried here as well, you may get more info searching through those.
Good luck.
*Mongo,The latest I've read now states that plastic cutting boards may be worse than wooden ones for bacteria, as they are able to accept stuff into their cuts, then the cuts close up on it. I don't know what to believe, when, anymore. I continue to use wooden cutting boards, though I use close-grained wood (no pine) to reduce cuts and absorption. And I clean them well with hot, soapy water. Presently have maple and koa cutting boards.I've noted that the recent, intense interest in kitchens and bathrooms has spawned a lot of unusual material uses, many of them highly suspect (fireslate, natural slate, soapstone, cement, etc.). Is this just to be different? Every wooden countertop I've seen that's had a few years use has been stained around the sink. This area gets the most water, of course, and we know from hardwood floor experiences that those dark water stains are permanent. A top mounted, lipped sink would be a necessity, I'd believe, as undermounting would just expose that much end grain to water. I'll stick with non-porous surfaces.
*A lot of folks are using a combination of counter materials in the same kitchen . Like marble in a bakeing area ,usually lower than the rest of the counters . Then solid surface [Corian , Gibralter etc. ] in food prep area and at the sink ,and maybe a little wood elsewhere . Kind of goes with the current trend towards " kitchen furniture " . I'll go with Mongo and Steve as to wood around the sink , I,d avoid it if possible or be dilegent about keeping it dry and expect some staining anyway . Chuck
*SteveUse of hot soapy water to get that ol cutting board clean aint going to do squat to the little bugs in there. Try this next and see what you think; after washing to get the big bits off, put a scouring pad down in the middle of the cutting board and pour household bleach over it until it starts to run out and puddle slightly. Then, spread the bleach around the entire top and let it sit for five to ten minutes. After your short wait, rinse the board completely with warm water and let dry. Now that board is really clean and ready to go, just waiting for that next raw chicken cut-up and barbecue. No bugs quaranteed!The ol wash cloth needs this same treatment too, since it carries most of the germs around in your kitchen. While it's still wet, pour some bleach on and let it sit awhile, then rinse it with cold water.
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Does anyone know how to get the old kind of cast
iron kitchen sink with a drain surface on each
side of the basin? Seems as if that would work
with wood countertops, but I can only find the
kind with the drain surface on one si
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There are at least two earlier threads, look in the archives for a lot of installation and finishing details.
While the knee jerk asnwer among many kitchen design 'pros' is NO, wood can be both attractive and servicable. Maple butcher block has performed well for us. You can cut on it directly but that increases the need for maintenance. We use a separate cutting board that can be moved to any of the counter surfaces. Actually we have a large, but thin store bought maple one and two small plastic ones. If I ever get to it I'll make up a 2" thick one from a left over section of the counter itself. I've also seen rather large (say 2x2) pieces of Corian or other SS material used as separate cutting boards.
The net is, YES, definitely viable if you understand the issues.
*Hi Suzanne, I had a 5ft. cast iron American Standard with drain surfaces on both sides. I had to do away with it when we installed a dishwasher. I tried to sell it over the internet to restoration/salvage yards and had very few responses and no takers, so I had to dump it off at the local junk yard. It was one heavy mother at 200+ pounds and would'nt shatter when hit it with my 28 oz. hammer.
*Easier to get and compatible with under counet appliances like a dishwasher is Stainless Steel. Really can't be beat for durability and ability to clean. Of course you can't cut on it. And it is a modern and/or industrial look. Not the charm of butcher block or that '40s white porcelain. We had to think real hard about the one peice SS sink and counter... ultimately decided it din't complement the white painted "shaker" style cabinets and moved it to the basement laundry room and installed maple butcher block and an under-mounted white cast-iron sink. I'd guess today's alternative would be a single piece counter and sink in a Solid Surface like Corian. Come in lots of colors and combinations of colors. Not as indestructable as metal but a softer appearance.
*A mild digression, but I think the current obsession with germs is interesting. Most of it is driven not by health pros but by manufacturers -- e.g., Corian, anti-bacterial soap, etc. -- and that most people get illnesses from each other or from gross mistakes like allowing raw meat to contaminate the salad.... Don't worry so much. Watch your transfatty acids, LDLs and all that stuff instead, they'll kill you.The bleach sterilization mentioned above is probably the most effective, but you'd probably see better gains from washing your hands more often. Especially don't shake hands with anyone: I only learned a few years ago how many pathogens are transmitted primarily by the "fecal-oral route." You'll have to sketch that one out for yourself.Don't put wood around the sink. Anywhere else I think it looks fine, but if you cut on it don't put the drippy raw meat there ever. One third or more of poultry may have the salmonella bugger -- bird farm living conditions are pretty bad, and once the slaughtering equipment gets contaminated it spreads it around. Same with ground beef. Cook your meat well too!Drifting towards vegetarianism, ad...
*We put our butcher block around the sink (undermounted so there's no little crevice for the water to sit it). We were concerned about it and let in a piece of edge grain maple facing each side of the sink to cover the end grain of the BB laminations. It's in over a year now with only the initial finish and looks like day 1.We did consider stone or Corian around the sink and decided to go with the same counter surface throughout rather than mix materials.
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Just what I was looking for! No splashes on the
countertops and lots of space for sorted trash
underneath. I'll bet it's in perfect shape at the
bottom of the junk yard heap too! Suza
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I have heard that wood does not make a viable countertop for kitchen use. Too porous, holds germs and bacteria, scratches too easily,too hard to finish, etc.
Any help or experiences out there???