Wood deck over existing cement step
First time post, so bear with me…
I am planning on adding a wooden deck to the front of my house. My problem lies in the fact that there is an existing cement landing and step in place already that I cannot remove but would like to cover up with the wood.
The new deck would be just above grade with the existing cement step leading up to the door “covered” with wood. The cement is not attached to the foundation, but has likely been in place for 20-40 years and seems to have been stable for the last 3 years. I can attach the upper deck ledger to the rim joist, but the lower deck would be up against the cement of the foundation.
Can I simply fasten sleepers of treated lumber on to the cement then attach stringers and risers to them? Should the wood be separated from the cement in some way to prevent rot? I’ve got a few ideas from reading Fine Homebuilding over the years, But I’m no tradesman (just a very capable and handy veterinarian!)
Thanks in advance,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
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It might be advisable to give a bit more detailed data regarding the present concrete structure to better relay the situation.
Pictures always help to convey the nature of the problem.
You have a couple of options, depending on how much clearance you have from the existing landing/step to the threshold.
If you have enough height, you could just build the new deck above the existing concrete.
If you don't have enough height, and must keep the concrete step structure in place, you can lay down sleepers on the existing concrete and work up from there.
A picture would really help. And, if you have photo editing software that lets you put in comments, thought bubbles, etc., then annotating the picture with distances would be even better.
Maybe the Pictures will help.The cement step shown is not attached to the house but seems stable even though it is not exactly level. There is about 6 inches between the top of the step and the bottom of the door. I would like to "cover" the cement step then build a larger lower deck extending 10-14 feet out from the house under the front picture window.Mostly I wondering if the upper deck should be attached to the house or just supported by the cement. I suppose if the cement step shifts everything is going to go #### anyways. I was planning on supporting the "lower" deck on piers and laying the stairs and "upper" deck on sleepers on the cement. Should sleepers simply be treated lumber fastened to the cement with tapcon screws? some kind of adhesive? Should they lifted off of the cement somehow? or should there be spacing or some kind of channels for drainage?Let me know if there is any "proper" way of doing this.Thanks again
So...how large a deck are you planning?
The description of the stair framing sounds as if the they are directly on top of the existing!
Tapcons in treated is not a good idea since the tapcons will corrode unless they are stainless.
How will you address the ledger board attachment?
What size of joist will you use?
Will there we a railing/post system?
More details please..........Iron Helix
I plan to build the lower deck about 14 feet out from the house and along the length of the house (about 16 feet). I do not know what spacing I will use on the joists yet. I plan to go back and look at a span table in one of the recent FHB magazines I just read. the joist and decking will be pressure treated lumber. The stair framing will essentially be supported by the existing concrete porch when I am done. I think I will only have railing on the left side of the steps as seen in the picture. I wanted the large lower deck low enough that I would not need any other railing so that I would not obstruct my view out the front window. The Peace Country in Alberta is too darn pretty to interfere with any views in any way!I think I should be able to get things done with the above mentioned advice. now if only I could get my grass cut...thanks again,b
Jigs pretty well said what I was headed for!
Two sided stairs to the door landing would look nice.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Welcome to Breaktime.........Iron Hekix
>>Tapcons in treated is not a good idea since the tapcons will corrode unless they are stainless
I put tapcons in some treated wall plates about 4 years ago. They were exposed to the weather for a year before I dried in. I took one out periodically and checked fo corrosion durring that year and then agian before I dry walled the interior. Surprizingly there was only some discoloration but no corrosion.
Not to say I would use them in PT wood exposed to the weather as the OPs' situation will be, but for interior wall plates they would likely be ok. I also stuck a few old galvanized nails in those plate just for shiggles and grints. They were toast in 6 months. The new double dip HDG were fine after a year, showing only a little corrosion on top of the head.
The 1/2" galvanized anchor bolts looked fine after a year as well as several 3/8" SS guick bolts that were included in my mini test.
Just thought I would throw all that out for general information..
Take the moisture away and the galvanic reaction tends to dramatically slow/cease.I have also done a few observational experiments with tapcon and found that about year #4-
#5 of exterior exposure the tapcons fail. The shanks diameter reduced by corrosion.I guess I should make up some samples and set them in the inside, too!Thanks for your observations.......Iron Helix
Brooke, the existing concrete appears to be as level as it is supposed to be. It appears that there is some cross fall built in to assure drainage. It also appears that there is a concrete wall for either the footing or basement, from the bottom of the siding, to the dirt. So far as the upper tier of the deck, I would probably epoxy in some stainless anchor studs, and use some 2X4 pressure treated on the wide face as sleepers. There are plastic shims available, that you could use under the pt to level up the sleepers. Another option would be to cover the top of the step, and it's front face with flag stone, or possibly brick pavers. You have two options on the lower level of the deck. You can either install a ledger by drilling into the existing concrete wall, or build on piers. Since you are going to have to do the front side on piers anyway, I'd recommend putting the whole thing on them. If you design things right, you should be able to frame around the base of the existing porch, and then float the tails of the boards onto pressure treated 2X material that just sits on the second step of the concrete porch, with out being rigidly attached.