I’m going to nail a wood skirt around the outside of my house this w/e before I run my siding.
Its going to be 10″
Questions:
If I prime, seal and paint, will 1 x 10 pine be suffice?
I’m also want to add a decorative yet functional cap on top of it. I looked for something in the pvc/plastic area of trim. It doens’t have exactly what I need, but if I could run it through my router it would be close. Can you route the plastic trim or does it melt?
The top of the cap will be lapped by the first runof siding
ANy other suggestions for the cap? Just go with syp and route it exactly to my specs?
It has to drain the water away as well as be decorative.
Thanks
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WWPD
Replies
Readily available wood drip cap won`t work?
Ya might have to kick 1x up to 5/4 though.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Are you asking me?
My main concern is water rot and using pine.
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WWPD
I think what JD is asking you is if the readily available drip cap, that you should be able to get at most lumber yards, isn't good enough.
The drip cap has a lip that fits up behind the siding.
Doug
Oh, my bad. I'm not seeing anything at my lumberyard (other than special order $$$). Thats why I ended up considering routing my own.
And pine versus plastic were the choices.
Sorry for any confusion and misreading the response.
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WWPD
I would recommend cedar if you're going to use wood, and back prime prior to installation. The cap I would mill out of Azek, although our local HD has a PVC drip cap called NeverRot, which is very similar to Azek. Do not use wood, moisture will rot it out, just a matter of time. And definately steer clear of the fingerjointed preprimed drip cap, it's a replacement waiting to be done.
Price out cedar and then look at cellular PVC for the skirt. I like cedar, but if this is going to be painted and near ground level, you're better off springing for the PVC.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
Do not use wood, moisture will rot it out, just a matter of time.
Does that go for eveything? Or just wood drip cap?
Properly installed and maintaned, wood siding/trim will give years of trouble free protection to ones home.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
But...that particular piece of wood is in one of the wettest locations on the house. Low down where more rain blows agaisnt it and the full volumn of water from siding runs down onto it. Down where the sprinkler in the lawn wets it.horizontal where water beads and lays on it longer than most other surfaces.Down behind shru7bbery where wind dowsn't dry it as quickly.Fact is, that piece does rot before anything else. My supplieer just told me a couple weeks ago that Azek is now making a drip cap piece. No question, I will be using it from now on.Another thing we do in this detail is to take scrap chunks of PT and rip shims about 3/16" to tack on at 12" or 16" oc behind the skirt band. With backpriming, that saves the skirt.
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Seriously? So you have created and air space?
"Another thing we do in this detail is to take scrap chunks of PT and rip shims about 3/16" to tack on at 12" or 16" oc behind the skirt band. With backpriming, that saves the skirt"-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
WWPD
yes, for the effort of an extra hour's time, the life of the skirt is probably doubled
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Drip cap on the skirt will rot, it's only a matter of time, IMO, depending on your location. Heaven knows I've replaced enough of them in SE New England. My own house has a cedar drip cap ripped from the trailing edge of cedar claps, and I've had to replace my share of that. Whenever I install drip cap now, I use a cellular PVC product, and the homeowners have been ecstatic, every one of them. I will not install any more wood drip caps. It's just not worth it.
The skirt board is another matter. I replace the skirt board using cedar or redwood, but advise against pine. (My house had pine, and I've had to replace most of it, and the house is only 20 yo.) Azek is another product I've been using more and more of lately for this application, and the people at generally very happy that rot in this particular component will no longer be a problem.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I was hoping to see a cute chick in a wood miniskirt. Dangit man!
Is there any way you can make the cap wider and get a drip groove under the overhang ?.Also make the joint slope down to the front.
pick one
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the overhang is exactly what I want!
Tell me wheere you get it or how its obtained. Please
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WWPD
Edited 12/13/2005 8:03 pm ET by Sailfish
standard offering up here as brosco #923But likeI said, my lumber guy tells me that Azek is just starting to market the same pattern in its cellular PVC
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Combination of the two. Flashing under the drip cap, tucked under the housewrap/tar paper. Bed the DC in polurethane caulk if flashing isn't feasible/possible.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
curious about why under the wood drip? We run metal over the wood drip always keeping drips running down. Placing it under would trap water on bottom of the drip should it get past the siding.
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Mr Piffin
for a computer illiterate like me
are those fine illustrations you presented drawn by you "freehand" or drawn from a bank of architectural drawings or what?
a short primer please
you and framer among others have that down and I really appreciate it /I have aspirations to respond like that someday
cheers John
Those are drawn from my CAD program, using the most rudimetary drawing tools that would be available in even an inexpensive one. We had a similar discussion once before and I had sketched those out and remembered I had them. I think one is a copy of the other with an added version for purposes of that thread. Sometimes when we are analysing a problem or question somebody has, and the terminology is iffy or ponderous and confusing, it is easier to make a quick drawing and say, "Like this?" or to find a photo
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Oops. A perfect case of, 'do as I do, not as I say'. The photo shows the 5/4 PVC drip cap over Azek skirt with flashing ABOVE the cap, as you suggest, on a Victorian in Mystic that we are in the process of replacing all of the front facing lower trim. Mental lapse, my apologies to all who were misguided by my very wrong statement. "I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I`ve always used a combination of the two picture in your second pic.
Aluminum flashing over the drip cap. I typically instal undercourse shakes at this point to ensure the siding truly laps the back edge of the drip cap.
I`m liking the vent strips idea. Prolly be able to shrink that skirt back down to 3/4" stock.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I did precisely what you plan on my existing place.
It has this old double v cut fir siding that IS the sheathing--up to a belly board with shakes above.
I removed the first course, (carefully, and kept it for further repairs--some pieces were 14-16') laid in some new strips of felt and then stuck zmetal up under to run water down over the skirt.
I used the preprimed spruce 1x10 trim that's available all over.
Some caulking and I think it'll last even here in Oregon.
I might have made a drip cap, as you suggest, but I was in a hurry and the metal went in quickly--and, I know it won't be a problem.
Cheers,
Pat
Oh,
and I forgot to mention... the thugs on this site teased me too, about "flashing my skirt" just the same...they can't resist
;-)
P
why not use a cellular PVC skirt board ( Azek or Koma) along with the PVC drip cap?
no rot, very low maintenance
Tomorrow I will check out the drip cap(Azek and others) possibilties at my builders supply. As well as the board. However that stuff is $$$$. I will need ot factor that in too.
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WWPD
cost of the PVC-$$$
not ever having to paint-priceless!!
$1.30 lf for the pvc drip cap.
Thats not too bad actually
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WWPD