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looking for real wood veneer that has an adhesive backing for use on cabinet faces, without removing the fomica.
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you're wasting your time, unless your goal is to end up with schlock work.
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I disagree. Years ago, I built some office cabinets for myself using particle board, formica and contact cement. Twenty years later, they still stick together. Recently, last month, I veneered some cabinets for my kitchen in WI that were covered with a thin, paper veneer. The FHB book by Herrick (last name escapes me) gave me the technique. When I am done with the floor, and tile, I plan on trying to post a picture. It is not as good as Joe's solid maple, but from a distance as the song goes, it looks very good - and the whole kitchen, with appliances, floor, cabinets will come in under $5,000. Materials are changing, techniques are changing. It is very easy to become blind to modern techniques just because old techniques don't work with more recent materials. As for MDF, I have a observation. Unless all of you who are downplaying MDF are using solid counter tops, how do you explain the fact that next to water, covered with water, they last for years? Yes, if it has been done, it can be done - maybe you just haven't learned how to do it yet.
Dennis
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i'm the first to embrace new technology, if it works (e.g.--i love mdf). wood veneer and contact cement don't work. in time, the veneer crawls all over the place, buckles, bubbles, blisters, etc, in other words it looks like shit. your quote about 'from a distance' says it all. i want my cabinets to look good up close.
by the way, exterior grade mdf will hold up to water really well. interior grade swells in thickness when you sneeze on it.
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looking for real wood veneer that has an adhesive backing for use on cabinet faces, without removing the fomica.