Replies

1. 
   BowBear | Nov 21, 2003 08:25pm | #1

   Try the Gougeon Brothers West Epoxy manual. The ealier editions talk about making wood epoxy gas tanks.

   An ex-boat builder treading water!
2. 
   mike4244 | Nov 22, 2003 12:13am | #2

   Use Varathane Varnish, not epoxy but next best thing. This stuff is very thick, I thin it or it is difficult to brush. I did three vanities and tops about ten years ago, they still look good. I do not recall what the solvent is, I believe I added 20% solvent to the can. Brushed five coats on, sanded between coats. If you do not thin you will have a lot of sanding, out of the can it goes on like glue.

   mike

1. 
   Plumbline | Dec 05, 2003 02:47pm | #3

   Mike;

   Sorry I'm so long in geting back, thank you for your response I may just do as you suggest.

   Jim

1. 
   goldhiller | Dec 05, 2003 06:05pm | #5

   Plumbline,

   There was a thread on this stuff (again) a couple days ago. Might want to check it out, too. No consensus available it would seem. Pick a horse and place a bet. ;-)

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=37367.1

   Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

1. 
   Plumbline | Dec 06, 2003 08:53pm | #6

   Thanks a lot for the information I appreciate it.

   Jim

1. 
   joinery45 | Dec 08, 2003 08:47am | #7

   I seal the end grain with a penetrating epoxy by Smith it has the same viscosity as water and soaks right-in. Then I sand a seal with thinned coats of "The Good Stuff"

2. 
   DenverKevin | Dec 08, 2003 08:58am | #8

   At the fiberglass supply houses, they have "clear cast" 2 part polyester resin.   You can pour this stuff up to  1/4" thick.   Pretty hard, and you can rub out scratches.  It was pretty popular on bars 20 years ago.

3. 
   diddidit | Dec 05, 2003 04:30pm | #4

   Epoxy would be food-safe once cured, and it would certainly make the wood completely water-safe, but I don't think it would make a good countertop finish as it will scratch, and the scratches will be hard to repair. I'd think flooding the surface with raw linseed oil would be better. If you do to epoxy, make sure you apply roughly equal amounts to both the top and the bottom of the countertop. If you only put epoxy on the top, the thing will warp like you won't believe.

   It might be possible to simply to a light coat of epoxy rather than a thick, clear coat. What I would do is heat up the counter with heat lamps (watch it carefully, don't burn the thing!). This will pull the epoxy deeper into the wood and leave it protected but still with a more natural look.

   If you make the counter yourself, edge-gluing the strips together with epoxy would be ideal, and WEST System stuff is excellent. I've done a lot with it. They have lots of educational material available for cheap or for free; if you have a West Marine store near you, they'll have everything you'd need.

   http://www.westsystem.com/

   did

   Blah, yada, whatever, Hi how are you today