just purchased a hard top camping trialer, want to use as a work trailer
going to convert to a full height framed trailer for winter work
any suggetions for framing, windows and siding?
body and roof structure are good, just want to replace roof lifting mechanism and canvas with permanent walls etc etc
for example bracing for roof structure for light road use
id like to make it look professional
anybody done this type of conversion?
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Replies
Drag it on up to frerdnchies place. He'll frame it up for you.
But you'll need to change the foundation first.
LOL
Excellence is its own reward!
hahaha, seriously though, canvas is shot, so i want to raise the roof on some framing, sheath and side with some windows, roof and lower structure is great and dont mind towing a full height trailer, its long and has lots of room inside, propane furnace etc etc and paid 200 cdn for it
You don't state the configuration of the trailer, or if you want to keep it that way.
1) Most camping trailers extend fore and aft to expand the footprint when you're set up, these are usually the sleeping areas with the central part of the camper left for "living" space. Take away the end compartments, and that trailer suddenly becomes quite small.
2) If you want to retain the extendable ends, then you will have problems with towing (the fore sleeping platform is almost as long as the tongue off the trailer and the aft compartment will partially obscure the lights) even if you manage to reinforce those ends sufficiently to stand the rigors of being towed (mostly air resistance, but also the shaking transmitted from the road surface). .
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Those types of trailers are not framed very well. They tow nicely and hold up pretty well in their original condition because there is very little wind resistance. They are not meant to be towed "popped up", so you'd need to deal with that, if that's what you're invisioning (fixing the trailer in the "popped up" position and replacing side walls with plywood). Also, the suspension is rated for a fairly light load. You might run into problems if you're putting a lot of weight in there.
Be aware also, that many of these trailers don't have full floors. The plywood subfloor only runs as far to the sides as it needs to to support the cabinets. If you take out the cabinets, you might get a surprise. You can usually tell from underneath.
Good luck with this project, but it might cost more than it's worth, and it's bound to give you headaches. You'd probably be money ahead buying a good, used utility trailer that came full height from the factory or having one built for you.
Don't people usually buy a boat when they want to burn money?
I think I missed the part about just going to a commercial tent/awning company and having them set up new canvas ?
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
i checked out this trailer really well and the florring is really solid as is the existing walls, my plans are to leave the whole thing hoisted all the time including the extensions at the ends.
i'll extend the hitch about 3 feet and convert to a 2 inch ball, a friends a welder, and then frame the roof/wall structure, need advice on the extensions
i'll never tow it at highway speeds so wind load is not a factor, and the suspension system is rock hard
for the walls i was thinking 2*2 with good sheathing, roof is ok as is, but the extensions at each end, i need some ideas