Hey all,
I’m going to be ordering up a commercial truck cap in the coming days. I’m tired of the pile of tools in my truck box and wasting time loading and unloading my truck with what I need for the day. Not to mention another winter of shoveling out the bed.
Wondering what to expect for a mileage difference once it goes on. I know that if it’s fully loaded my mpg will go down, but I guess I wondering if the wedge design is worth the extra up front expense? I’d like a bit of extra room back there so a little extra height would be good I think. I’ll have a rack up on top as well so I don’t know how that with effect the aerodynamics of it all.
Also trying to decide between a Leer and ARE, the two common ones in my neck of the woods. My dealer say that the leer have a better warranty and are a few hundred cheaper than ARE. Seems to me that ARE offers more options and I’ve heard from a fellow carpenter that the ARE seem a bit better made when it comes to latches and locks and such.
Anyone out there with an opinion? Thanks for the advice.
-Rob
Replies
It won't really make a difference unless you do a lot of highways travel at 80MPH.
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from what i understand, a cap will not increase your mpg. the best aerodynamics (= mpg) for a truck are the way it came off the showroom floor. your biggest factors are weight, and how you drive.
I like the ARE for the reasons you stated.
I have had regular caps on my trucks for years and always lost about 2 MPG when I put them on. Their benefits are worth it in my opinion!
Can't say as I've ever had a Leer cap but on my second ARE cap. You can get it spec built for your needs and both of mine have stood the test of time and misuse and abuse. A cap will not change you mileage significantly, if anything probably drop it a tad.
Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
I've got the ARE and like it so far. I did lose about 2-3mpg when I put it on though.
curious... is it the cap or the extra weight? that would cause the drop in MPG?I can see if it's taller than the cab the extra resistance also the hole the truck punches through the air is not allowed to "close" with the big square back... vs just the tailgate... I assume just a bed cover would give you an increase in MPG?just curious
p
I know that in boat hull design, folks say that how you put the water back is just as important as how you cut it --Try squaring off the end of a racing canoe and see what it does to your time. So those wedge-shaped caps, while providing wonderful access to cargo, create a bigger vacuum behind the truck, complete with the backwards pull that comes with that vacuum.On the other hand, I do a lot of work with a guy who uses a tonneau cover. Very sleek -- probably more economical than a stock truck, let alone one with a cap. And since most of his work is a good 1/2 hour from where he lives, he took out his full-length pull-out tool/supplies boxes to save even more gas. Great fuel economy!But how much in gas savings was wiped out that one time that he had to pack up his jobsite, drive across town to where I was working, use my power plane to trim a door, then drive back across town and set up again?At $2.50/gallon, 20mpg, it takes $125 worth of gas to drive 1000 miles.At 15mpg, that same drive takes $166 worth of gas.So every 1000 miles of driving, he saves about 1/2 of what he lost that one day by packing light, and not being prepared for the job at hand.I kick myself all of the time for that tool that's sitting back in the shop. But even more often, I answer a fellow worker, "Yes, I think I've got one in the truck," when he finds himself under-equipped.As they say,Priceless.So don't get distracted by false economy -- equip your truck to carry what you need, and then some, and you'll make up that gas money in larger, more frequent paychecks.AitchKay
I lost the fuel economy before I even loaded it with tools. My cap sits flush with the top of the cab. I do have a ladder rack on top so it could be that and not the cap.
I'm not sure how a bed cover would effect mpg but I've heard they help.
Ladder rack is a big drag- even without ladders.
Mythbusters did a segment on pickup trucks, tailgates and MPG. Best mileage was with the tailgate up.
There is something called Airtabs that are supposed to help with improving MPG by creating eddy currents that break up the vacuum on large flat surfaces like the back of a semi. Have not tried them.
I've had a Leer cap for 5 years now. I think my latch locks went within the first couple of months. One gas piston a short time later. I have the fiberglass wedge style and even though I love the "look" I hate my weak ladder rack and wish I would have gotten one of the Swiss or ARE aluminum caps with the cab over ladder rack. Can't say much on the fuel mileage, I like having my 5K+ worth of tools locked and dry. I'd love to get a enclosed trailer but I tow around my dump trailer too often. Just my $.02
Chuck
Ditto with my Century.All of the locks went fast. If I go that route again, I'll order a spare set of 6 locks all around right from the get-go.And there is too much angle in the window design, so the rear pistons have too much sideways thrust, and popped off on both sides after less than a year. They gave me new props, but that didn't fix the built-in problem. The props popped off again, and by then I was out of warranty.Basically unfixable. Wiring them into place helps.AitchKay
Rob,
For most modern vehicles, it's a moot point as far as aerodynamics. As stated earlier, it's how you drive. In an airplane yes, but not a truck, unless you're on The Autobahn.
WSJ
Edited 9/20/2009 8:28 pm ET by WorkshopJon
I went with Century in lieu of ARE to save about 10% and regret not getting the ARE.
had the A.R.E.... no complaints..
XW had the Leer... not so good...
2 years and changed it to a A.R.E....
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Robert,
If you plan to put a cap on your pickup, make sure the cap you select has (the generally optional) swing-up side windows so you'll have access to the stuff forward in the truck bed.
Regards,
Jim x 3
Hey,
Thanks for all the good advice. I guess I wasn't thinking that my mileage would go up with the new cap. And it's reassuring that it probably wont make a huge difference as far as dropping, depending how and where I drive.
I especially like the post about having the right tool when you ( or the guy your working with) needs it. Sound advice.
I think I'm leaning towards the ARE now. Seems like the group consensus is that the extra $ is worth it.
Off to the job now. Maybe I'll order one up later.
Thanks again.
- Rob
another thing to think about. Used to have a wedge style on my old F250. I could drive riding mower up into the bed just by ducking my head. The new F150 has a straight cap and so I have to push the very heavy mower onto the bed. Guess I'll have to get a utility trailer for the mower. But I still would not have a pick up without a cap.
http://www.knapheide.com/products/utilityvans/kuv/default.asp?selection=products&type=utilityvans
Go for the best and get a knapheide.
I have had both Fiberglass and aluminium frame and skin. If I were to buy another it would be the metal one. Its very easy to add things to the inside to clip tools to like levels and squares. The fiberglass unit looks better but it cost lots more.
Either one the factory locks are junk and its not just because the lock number is on them! The catch is weak and can be pulled open easy. I have photos for a better lock setup if you need them. Get the swing up side windows so you can get to things from the side.
MPG F150, 1997, 4.6v8, supercab, 8' bed 16mpg on a run, same as no cap. This with a leer fiberglass cap with the wedge front.