Hi,
In the latest issue of FHB—there is a Breaktime discussion created by Blownonfuel about kickbacks. I tried to locate the discussion, but no luck.
Thought I might add my 2 cents: Kickbacks do happen even if we are careful to let the cut off end drop free. There are several elements that make a kickback not so dangerous with a wormdrive saw.
1. Make sure you are using a quality saw—like Skil, Bosch, Rigid.
2. A worm drive saw is heavier so easier to control than most sidewinders.
3. A worm drive saw is pushed from the rear so it won’t jump around like other saws that are pushed from the top.
4. The gears of a worm drive saw are almost impossible to destroy no matter how many times the blade binds up and produces a kickback.
5. The way to wreck a worm drive is to hook it up to 100 ft. of #18 electric cord and do some serious cutting. The armature should get to smoking.
I’m still here……larry haun
Replies
Yeah but you said wormdrive so ou may be on the way out :o)
Plus, a lot of guys tighten the nut too tight when they mount the blade on the saw. It's suppose to slip some if the blade binds. Snug but not tight! I've got Skil and Bosch and I have to say, Bosch is my favorite worm drive. My old Skil, purchased in 1986 runs the smoothest even now.
People are asking for an appearance!!
<I'm still here......larry haun>
We're not worthy!
Forrest - a really big fan
Thanks for sharing-don't be a stranger.
I've got two wormdrives, a recent Bosch, and an ancient Skill (I bought it used in 1978). I also have 4 sidewinders, one of them a lefty. I love them all, they are like my children, each with their strengths and weaknesses, so I've tried not to engage in the sometimes heated arguments about which style is best.
And kickback is something I always try to think about with every cut!
John Svenson, builder, remodeler, NE Ohio
Hey Larry -
Good to see you back. Your gang cutting methods have inspired me to try similar things in my line of work. Some have worked, some haven't, but the few that have, save me a tremendous amount of time and effort. Thank you, Sir.
Now, back to the saw thing. Are there circular saws of other types than the worm drive? I've heard rumors, but haven't been able to substantiate them?
http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Hi,
Makita uses what they call a hypoid gear system for their production saw. You can check it out with them. The first ones that came out had lots of torque---about twisted your arm off when you fired it up.
For what it's worth....My first job as a framer in 1950 was attacking a pile of studs with a handsaw to cut them to length. Not long after that, I bought a used Skil wormdrive saw. In all the years that I used the wormdrive, I never once saw the actual gears get broken. We used the 8in. & 10 in. Skil saws on the jobsite when doing lots of ripping. The main problem we had was from armatures burning up when being pushed too hard.
It is interesting to note that the country is divided when it comes to saws---wormdrives west of the Mississippi and sidewinders to the east. Because of the way the handle is placed, up on a sidewinder & back on a wormdrive, different ways of cutting and working were developed by carpenters. On framing jobs in the west, we seldom use sawhorses when cutting. We hold the material and cut downward. In the east, they often use horses, work stations, to set their material on when they need to cut.
I am right handed. so don't particularly like to use a saw that I have to look over to see the cut line. On the other hand, there are sidewinders out there now that have lots of "get-up-and-go these days.
Good top hear from you, larry haun
Hey Mr. Haun, just watched your DVD's again recently. You are an inspiration. Hope all is well.
edit: Still using my 25 year old 8 1/4" PC sidewinder, as I'm from the east ;-)
Edited 11/20/2008 12:09 pm ET by TGNY
Hey, Larry, or anyone else for that matter-Why are sidewinders primarily blade-right (with a couple exceptions), and worm (and hypoid) drives blade-left?