Happy Holidays everyone!!!
I need a some advise or ideas. I am in the process of finishing a room in the basement that will be used for a TV room and pool table. The walls are sheet rock and the stairs and small landing area are yellow pine. I would like to continue the yellow pine throught out the rest of the room on the trim. The price of 1X YP #2 looks very good to my budget (I do not mind a few knots).
My questions (1) should I buy all 1X4 and use it for casing and base or use 1X4 for casing and 1X6 for base. (2) I would like to put a small profile on the edge with a router (any suggested profile). (3) should I use a plith block where base meets casing?
Any other concerns or things I should avoid?
Thank you for your time.
Replies
Plane down the base or use blocks at the casing-lining up the two same thickness is way too difficult for the unpleasing result.
Different width between casing and base is tradition with merit. Not to say the same size couldn't be made to look alright. Take a couple pcs and have a look.
Better to decide b/4 you buy and shape it.
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
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you got that right...back in ME, early 90's boss talks homeowner into 1/2" flat stock trim...I couldn't express well enough how it was a bad idea....Had to chase that detail around the entire house!!!good thing it was a camp....
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I have Transcended the need for Pants....oooohhhhmmmmmm......
kind of what i was thinking
sounded kind of 1970's to me--or cabinish or beach rental-or rec-room- or something.
also wondering about the yelloe pine 1x6( I am thinking SYP)--which moves a lot
maybe a couple of relief kerfs on the back of the 1x6 to stabilize things a bit---probably wouldn't bother on the 1x4
just random thoughts.
stephen
Thanks for the reply from you and Mr T. The place is a mess right now I have been very busy and it's hard to stop and clean up. With the rock wall behind the wood stove I was tring to give a rustic look with the trim. If I go with conventional trim finish grade it will more than double my cost and the budget is getting tight.
I agree with you both, just tring to save a buck. I like the idea of planing the 1X down but do not own a planer. It would cost more than I would save if I have it done by a shop.
We're trimming a remodel in SYP. The existing was 1 x 4 base, 1 x 2 1/2" casing (ripped out of 1 x 6). The home owners did not want to change the base/case dimensions, so we're fighting to get them flush. We've changed the old mitered head casings to butt casings, 5/4 x 4 with 1/2" over hangs. Plinths would have been easier on the casing legs, but seem to look to busy with wild yellow pine grain.Get ready for some sanding<G> Winterlude, Winterlude, my little daisy,
Winterlude by the telephone wire,
Winterlude, it's makin' me lazy,
Come on, sit by the logs in the fire.
The moonlight reflects from the window
Where the snowflakes, they cover the sand.
Come out tonight, ev'rything will be tight,
Winterlude, this dude thinks you're grand.
Good point on the grain re plinths!
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I ordered some 5/4 for plinth blocks. Was told to go 2" higher than base ?.... sound right?
Thanks and Merry Xmas to you also!
Was told to go 2" higher than base ?.... sound right?
Will work.
But, if you take the diagonal of the base x casing dimension, and sweep that as a radius, it will be better--that makes that ellusice golden section dimension. However, 2" is probably an easier set-up than 49/32 or whatever the "pure" answer is.
Just don't do one on one side of the door, and the other opposite to decide--the harder cut will "win" just about every time (don't ask me how I know, or how many precut plinths were recut . . . )Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
It is Christmas, just go buy a planer for yourself,if significant other says no tell her it is for her, she will enjoy making messes along with you. Just kidding, or maybe not.
Good idea. I will send my letter to Santa Clause!
Thats the problem santa will probally have a clause in the okay of this Oh well worth a try MERRY CHRISTMAS
What finish are you thinking? Over time, orange shellac is a nice finish for yellow pine.
Do you have access to a salvage place that might have old yellow pine? It is much nicer looking than new fast growth stuff. You might even save some money.
I like plinth blocks. Saves from having to get perfect mating surfaces.
Ogee is a nice look for the top of baseboards. Usually a second piece though.
As for height, I think it is in part determined by ceiling height. The taller the walls, the more height you need for the baseboard to look right.
If you apply any finish, make sure to round over the edges at least a little. Finish doesn't adhere to a sharp edge.
Bryan,
My idea is to keep everything as lite as possible since it is a basement. I also have a lot of kids and two big dogs. I am planning on using Watco tongue oil for the stairs and trim. I was told that any scatches or damage by my big family or dogs could be fixed or some what hidden with a quick wipe of tounge oil on the soft wood.
I sent in my material order after a long discussion with the better half and we went with all 1X4 casing and base with the idea that we might put a top cap on the base.
I have a back room and a bathroom that I will do in conventional finger joint trim. I had to order the pre-hung doors without trim to make this work. We will see how well I do with that? :<)
Thanks so much for your responce------ Merry Xmas
Clear yellow pine is our standard trim material here in NC. No problem with movement. I get FSC certified locally milled and dried stock from a guy down in Siler City (Wrenn Bros. Lumber) we buy big packs of 1x6 and also 5/4 x 6 and 12" step tread.
All base is 1x6
Window stools are 5/4 by 2 1/2 generally (varies)
Window and door sides are 1x6 ripped to 1x3
Window and door heads are 5/4 x 3 from 5/4 by 6
Finish is Hood Everlast low VOC oil based urethane (275 g/l VOC)
Works great, yes it does have a casual feel to it. For a more formal vibe we just paint it. We almost always use square edge trim.
Your can see what it looks like at http://www.ChandlerDesignBuild.com
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"You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."
Thanks, your site and design looks fantastic.
I am thinking about releaving the edges (casing only) just a tad. I might just hit it with the sanders or a small round over raised high on the router??
<<about releaving the edges (casing only) just a tad. I might just hit it with the sanders or a small round over raised high on the router??>>We carry low angle planes and also knock them down with a pad sander. running a router on it is a little too hippy-dippy in my opinion. But I might be prejudiced since we used to rout a round over on every stick of wood back in the day. m------------------
"You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."
We used white pine 1x6 base and 1x4 case.
View Image
We were going for rustic, so we eased all the edges and ends with a r. o. sander.
With everything eased, it ends up looking like a reveal, instead of a mismatch.
View Image
The trim is all square cut, with the head stacked on the sides, wit 1/2" or so overhang. The base corners are also square or butts.
I tried real hard to get the nails in in a somewhat symmetrical pattern, because we made no attempt to hide them.
It all depends on the look you desire.
A medium to large guy named Alan, not an ambiguous female....
NOT that there is anything wrong with that.
That's what I am looking for!!! Nice job! The base looks thinner than the casing... is that true, or is that the photo?
It is the photo.I started with just sanding the edges of the casing, but the intersection looked odd.After I knocked the corners off the ends and edges, it made the look come together, especially since the stain darkens the end grain a little more.When I started easing the cornerts I tried to be precise, and considered a router, then started my 15yr old son on the sanding and staining, and decided we liked the randomly sanded look better.A medium to large guy named Alan, not an ambiguous female....
NOT that there is anything wrong with that.
I'd get a bit of 5/4 stock also to make plinths and top corner blocks where rosetts might be - or use 5/4 header trim, 3/4 legs and 1/2 base
Always best to have baseboard taller than the casing is thick
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
one of my favorite trim details is the 1x5 casing with back band and 1x6 base with 3/8 round over and if you want to up grade you use ranch stop as base top that is the detail in all the 1920s houses around here
I've used this combination many times. Sometimes adding a simple 1/2" quarter round or base cap helps hide any sins in the drywall, esp. if it's not getting painted. One downside of using 1x is that it's not as flexible as the thinner milled casings so if the drywall is unusually wavy, gaps are more apparent. Keeping things flush has never been a problem but if you had any issues you simply shim and/or hit with RO sander when necessary.