Installing tall doors - Fine Homebuilding
previous
  • 7 Trim Carpentry Secrets
    7 Trim Carpentry Secrets
  • All about Roofing
    All about Roofing
  • Deck Design & Construction
    Deck Design & Construction
  • Basement Remodeling Tips
    Basement Remodeling Tips
  • 9 Concrete Countertops Ideas
    9 Concrete Countertops Ideas
  • Tips & Techniques for Painting
    Tips & Techniques for Painting
  • Electrical Articles & Videos
    Electrical Articles & Videos
  • Play the Inspector Game!
    Play the Inspector Game!
  • The Hobbit House and More
    The Hobbit House and More
  • Master Carpenter Videos
    Master Carpenter Videos
  • Energy-Smart Details
    Energy-Smart Details
  • 7 Smart Kitchen Solutions
    7 Smart Kitchen Solutions
  • Remodeling in Action
    Remodeling in Action
  • 7 Small Bathroom Layouts
    7 Small Bathroom Layouts
  • Buyer's Guide to Insulation
    Buyer's Guide to Insulation
  • The Passive House Build
    The Passive House Build
  • Clever daily tip in your inbox
    Clever daily tip in your inbox
  • Magazine Departments
    Magazine Departments
  • How to Install Housewrap Solo
    How to Install Housewrap Solo
  • Video: Build a curved step
    Video: Build a curved step
  • Shorten a Prehung Door
    Shorten a Prehung Door
  • Read FHB on Your iPad
    Read FHB on Your iPad
  • 12 Remodeling Secrets
    12 Remodeling Secrets
next


Installing tall doors

comments (0) January 31st, 2011 in Project Gallery
Click the thumbs up button above to vote for this tip. Help us choose Fine Homebuildings top-10 window and door tips. Click To Enlarge

Click the "thumbs up" button above to vote for this tip. Help us choose Fine Homebuilding's top-10 window and door tips

Photo: Drawing by Chuck Miller

Faced with installing some 60, 3-ft. by 8-ft. prehung doors, I developed the jamb-setting fixture shown in the drawing. Not only did the fixture keep the hinge jamb and the head jamb at 90°, but it also helped keep the finger-jointed jambs straight during installation.

I made the fixture out of 1-in. by 4-in. architectural aluminum channel. This material, which is .115 in. thick, has square inside corners (structural channel has rounded inside corners). The vertical leg of the fixture is 94 in. long, and the horizontal leg is 34 in. long. A diagonal brace connects the two legs, ensuring that the assembly stays square. I carefully cut away the flanges where the pieces of channel overlap one another, and affixed them with Tek screws driven into pilot holes. Then I clamped a spirit level to the fixture by running a couple of screws through the vertical leg into a pair of wooden blocks. The screws pass through the cutouts in the level's frame, sandwiching the level between the aluminum channel and the blocks.

To use the fixture, I first removed the door from its jamb. Then I screwed the hinge-side jamb to the fixture with 1-in. drywall screws that were run through predrilled holes in the channel flange. Next I screwed the head jamb to the fixture in the same manner. I was surprised at how bowed and twisted the jambs were on these doors, and this step really helped to straighten them out during installation.

I placed the fixture and the attached jamb into the rough opening with a spacer board on the floor between the trimmers. The spacer is equal in length to the top jamb, and its purpose is to make sure the rough opening is wide enough.

When the bubble read plumb, I added the appropriate shims between the hinge jamb and the trimmer and nailed the jamb to the framing. Next I shimmed the head jamb and affixed it to the framing, secure in the knowledge that it had to be at 90° to the hinge jamb because it was in the grip of the fixture. To finish up, I hung the door and shimmed the strike-side jamb to fit.

 

Walt Dean, Boynton Beach, FL 

From Fine Homebuilding 90, pp. 32

 


posted in: Project Gallery, windows, doors

Comments (0)

Log in or create a free account to post a comment.