Accuracy for rough framing?
How accurate should rough framing be? At least one article I’ve read on this site recommends cutting wall plates and rim joists to within 1/16″ accuracy. But I’ve had contractors say that it’s not realistic to have walls within 1/4″ of proper location.
One reason is that we’re using raised heel trusses, and I’d like to know how accurate the rough framing of our walls really needs to be. Partly because the sheathing will cover the heel of the truss, down over the wall studs, and I want to create a good air barrier between the sheathing and the wall top plate.
I've always tried for the greatest accuracy I could get. Obviously, time is a consideration but there is no reason to be off anywhere by more than 1/4" and I always shot for less.
OK I'm just a guy who has done my own rennovations and things not a pro, but I don't see where you should have any problems at all with this type of design and the top plate will still be covered (and then some) by the exterior sheething. Just make sure walls are plumb and straight. Along those lines those mfg'd wall studs go a LONG way to ensuring this, as much conventional lumber is crap these days.
Oh boy, a lego link .
The grandson would be tickled.
You're just jealous you didn't think of it first LOL. Actually I'm amazed at the detail not like the legos I had as a kid. Or perhaps that's a lego CAD design or something. Anyway, shows wall sheething going well beyond top plate of wall.
Imhop 1/4" is about as close as wood boards will allow. That's excellent in practice. If I'm reading your situation right basically all you need is to get the 4 corners within a 1/4'' length and squared, then string line the wall between to 1/4'' All will be well.
That's pretty much what we're aiming for.
The width of a carpenters pencil is about as accurate as you can get. Any less accurate is lazy or sloppy or both.
Meant to say width of a carpenters pencil line.
I strive for the length of a carpenter's pencil.
That way you get more accurate as the job goes on.