I’ve been asked to put in a new sink with one of those over-sized Moen kitchen faucets. The sink will probably be acrylic (Brochure from Acri-cast) – any advice on acrylic sinks ?
– stains/scratch resistant ?
– strong enough to hold up that big faucet ?
– special installation ?
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Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Replies
Phil,
Haven't worked with acrylic sinks but have worked with a lot of acrylic products. It is stain and scratch resistant. Can't use ammonia products on it as it attacks it and will cause it to spider web. We cut it with a saber saw using good quality blades and use the side to side setting for the blade. ( I can't for the life of me remember what thats called) Can't scrub it at all. DanT
Put one (acrylic sink) in last summer in a kitchen remodel. She bought a faucet that has an integral hose in the spout. She has a very active 6 yo boy. When they went to pick out the faucet, the boy grabbed the spout and gave it a good yank; popped it clean off. They still bought the faucet and I installed it. I see the lady every week (church) and she still raves about the sink and faucet, so I'm guessing everything is still okay. (Take it with a grain of salt, however, the kitchen prior to reno had no cabinets and only 12" counters on either side of the single bowl sink, so she was easy to please.)
Personally, I didn't care for the sink much. It was an overlay, and the bearing surface in contact with the countertop varied from about 1/8" to about 3/8". And the flange was relatively tall, so wiping the counters into the sink bowl was going to be problematic. I voiced my thoughts, she said thank you, and went with it anyway.
BTW, the only means of securing it to the counter was with caulk. Cheesy, in my book. But I followed the directions. (My first acrylic sink, so I didn't want to chance anything creative.)
Hope this helps.
put lots of different types of sinks in including many that i think are acrylic, kinda looks like fibreglass on the bottom and nice colour on top thats all the way through
never had any problems with them, however some of the clamping methods are sorta cheesy
blanco's are my favourite, made of "siligranite"
caulking is not a piece of trim
over-sized Moen kitchen faucets
What do you mean? The one with a pull out spray head?
I don't know if acrylic sink/tub is scratch resistant, but the manufacturers warn not to use any abrasive to clean them.
It hasn't been picked yet, but the one she pointed to was this huge satin-finish thing with a separate spray - it must stand well over a foot tall and the spout (roughly 2" in diameter) is probably 16" long. I've seen one like it in HD in the $600 range.
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Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
The ones I have installed had hold down clips similar to a stainless steel sink. Havent had any problems. Ive had to knock out my own faucet holes on some but they were prescored at the factory. Everything went fine but its always a little scary when you take a hammer to a brand new sink. One of the plumbers I have been using has started to use silicone caulk as a sealer for the drain rather than plumbers putty. He says it works better because it lubes the drain as you tighten it and there is no fear of staining on light colors that can happen with some materials with plumbers putty.
Thanks to all for replies and info.
I'll mention the "no scrub".
Thanks for tip on silicon caulk: I've been using a full coat of vaseline along with a a bead of plumber's grease right next to the cut edge of the hole on all the ceramic sinks and it's been working. Good/bad idea ?.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
I am afraid I don't get it. Where and why you put a coat of vaseline along with a bead of plumber's grease?
Remember vaseline is no good for rubber...and latex if that matters.
That's the way I was taught. The vaseline provides a very thin, invisible, waterproof seal and the plumber's grease holds the vaseline in place. Oh, and 10 years from now when the basket/tail rots through, it'll be easy to disassemble and replace.
So, to my question: good/not good ?.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Oh, you were talking about the drain hole, I thought we were still on the subject of faucet.
When you said you used vaseline and plumber's grease on all ceramic sinks, were these vanity sinks or kitchen sinks? I never heard of or tried your method but if it is a kitchen sink with a garburator(sp?), I don't think it'll work. Why not just use plumber's grease by itself? There is non-staining plumber's putty which can be used on ceramic or acrylic sinks. Can't use it on marble though.
I would feel much more comfortable with silicone as Charles suggested. Use the transparent kind not the white kitchen and bath silicone.
BTW that's a mother of faucet you described. I have seen big faucets like what you described by other makes but not Moen.
I used to use silicon O-ring grease (i.e. the kind we used on the diving housings for instruments and cameras), but it's become very expensive. The plumbers grease is a very dark brown/orange, and seems to leave a 3-year stain on any surface it touches. Someone messaged me that Locktite have a new lubricant/sealer I should look at. (??)
Email tonight, there's a change in plans, it's now a Kohler (sp?) cast iron sink and a "Delta Waterfall pull-out" - I haven't seen either..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
If I want a color sink, Kohler cast iron would be my first choice and that's what I have now. Depends on the color, it's not that much more that an acrylic sink, much better sound deadening and a solid look and feel second to none.
The only draw back is if you drop your fine china or crystal, it would be like a Mini hitting a Mack truck. You can always put in a liner for those delicate occasions.
I was getting fond of that acrylic sink too - I think I may put into my own kitchen..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Phill,
I put in Corian sinks all the time. My opinion...acrylic sucks.
Stain/scratch...they stain and scratch EASILY. but it is also easy to remove both. We always gave the client a Scotch-Brite pad and showed them when and how to use it. Also told them never to use granular cleaner or acetone (nailpolish remover).
Strong enough...Yes, very dense and very strong assuming the holes are cut right. Low RPM hole saw, never jigsaw.
Installation...usually. For common drop in though, just cut the hole as tight as possible and use 100% silicone. I like GE brand ultra clear. Remember to clean the sink with denatured alcohol before applying silicone.
gk
Edited 2/28/2004 2:43:17 AM ET by gabe
As feared, DW would like the Corian-like Acri-cast sink. With a single-hole faucet and a separate soap dispenser, of course. That means either drilling the two holes, or, waiting for weeks for a custom order (at a huge bump in cost over the no-hole/3-holes in stock, wow !). (PS, we've custom ordered the Kohler for the customer; I just saw the shipping weight, yikes, how many people does it take to put one of these in ?)
So, you say my bi-metal hole-saw should cut through this pretty easily ? Do I need to take it down to the drill press, or it hand-held okay ? I've seen the plumbers drilling these holes after they set the sink - is that the best practise ?.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Phill, this is gonna sound obvious, but I'll say it anyway: Do not drill from the back to front. The blowout could potentially ruin your day. I know, I know: Duh!
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Phil,
It has been my experience that the number of holes does not matter...I have drilled up to six in one sink. The bi-metal hole saw is the tool to use. However, I recommend using a small drill motor with a clutch or one that is wussy enough to be stoped by you if it binds. When I drill, I go slow and make sure that I wobble as to not have too tight of a hole. Also, do not allow alot of heat to build. Heat is not a friend of acrylic as a burn could cause fracture.
Yes, the sinks are heavy too. If undermounting, I generally like to mount the sink before installing the countertop...give 24 hrs curing time to silicone. If you do not have that option as I suspect you don't; put weights on the countertop, then build what will resemble an upside down table under the sink, then use a jack under that to push the sink up to the counertop. At least that's how I do it but I don't really know your exact scenario.
good luck
gk
The "corian" sink is pretty light; but I am going to build it before I install it - it's that durn 38" cast iron Kohler I don't look forward to lifting..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
I had a American Standard Americast. I loved it until the bottom scratched, lightly like it was sanded, but all over. And then it chipped when hit with a pan on the edge, several times. I will not buy another one.
I'll second you on the Americast. Not sure if it is considered "acrylic" but I also would not get another. Despite the manufacturer's claims, it scratches too easily and pans leave nice gray marks (our sink is white so the marks are very visible). Cast iron is nice until the enamel chips off (and it will). I think stainless is hard to beat.