I am in the middle of a kitchen remodel where I’ve taken all of my old upper cabinets down getting ready for my electrician to come in and run new wiring. The previous remodeler put up a layer of drywall over the plaster and lathe wall – not quite sure why, except that the plaster isn’t in good shape. I took this layer of drywall off because I’ve removed a wall to open up my space and the extra layer created a thickness problem for me when transitioning into the new space. Under this drywall the plaster is crumbling in places – maybe about 10 percent of the 8 X 10 wall has problems. In past projects, like in my ceiling where they cut in can lights, I’ve gotten away with just patching the plaster because I don’t like the idea of having to tear it all down and rock it. The wall in question will be almost completely covered in cabinets, except for the 18″ strip between the uppers and lowers and a little sliver here and there. I want to do the right thing, but really don’t want to have to tear it all out. How do you decide when you need to start over and when you can patch it and forget it? Any advice or comments would be appreciated.
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Anyone? Anyone?
More opinion than advice...As they say....Just do it! I can think of more reasons to bite the bullet (and eat the dust) than reasons to put it off. With the plater gone, your surfaces match up, it's easier to do plumbing, electrcal work and insulation if needed. At 8' x 10' it shouldn't be too bad. Maybe you can lay out your drywall so all the joints are behind the cabinets and save some work there. Good luck!
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
plaster staying or going is a personal decision.
depends what can of worms you want to open......me....it depends on what's quicker/easier.....depends how much new mechanicals have to be run.
Is an open wall quicker/easier in the long run or is patching quicker/easier?
As to drywalling......for kitchen walls behind cab's....I like to fun the board horizontal.....and split a sheet lengthwise.
assuming 8' sheets....that makes for a 2' sheet running along the floor....a full sheet above that..and a 2' sheet cut to fit tight against the ceiling.
Your horizontal seams are now at 2' and 6' off the floor....behind most of the cabs.
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
Have you thought of what kind of backsplash you are going to put in? That may have a bearing on what kind of substrate you want to work with between the cabs. If there are going to be a lot of mechanicals going in, I'd rather deal with a accessible open space than doing key hole surgery.
Tom
The plumbing is staying in place. I have several new electrical boxes going in, so that will be the only surgery needed.
There is no question that it will be easier for me to patch the holes and cracks than to tear it all out. I really wanted to leave my sink base in until the last minute so we could continue to have some kind of kitchen.
I have a four inch backsplash going in that matches the counter, but I'm planning on painting the rest, except for behind the sink and stove, which will get tile. It's that 14" that will need to look the cleanest. I'm not too worried about a perfect surface for that strip because my house is old and no surface is perfect. What I'm worried about is the cabinet installers being able to do a good job if the wall isn't flat, and if my patching will be sufficient to keep the wall together.
done hundred of kitchen renos, best job is always to do a total stripping to the studs, add insulation, fix mechanicals properly and place new drywall
you will save lots and be much happier in the longrun
run new pipes for the sink, add new electrical outlets for everything
countertop will require much less scribing
if you're spending a few thousand for new cabinets, spend a couple of hundred on new drywal, the end result will be much more pleasing
With all the info you provided, Jeff said it very well, you are the only one that can decide which is easier. Let's analyse it a bit here.
"several new electrical boxes going in", that's not minor surgery considering they are probably all over the places. Are these new split recep? Then you'll have to run new wiring from the panel. Quite a few patches to be made here.
If the walls are not reasonably flat and plumb, then you may have to float the walls at cab ends, plus you have to repair and float the 14" where you want to paint.
Before you do all that you'll probably spend more time contemplating if you should take the plaster out or leave it. Then you'll probably post a few more times to confirm or justify your own decision. Within all that time you could have already torn it out and put in the dry wall as Jeff suggested.
Tom